Go Back   US MUSCLE US Muscle Forum General Discussion
User Name
Password


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #31  
Old 20-10-2010, 04:05 PM
69SS's Avatar
69SS 69SS is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Da Hills
Posts: 2,429
Name: Lyndsay
Tim, great work there mate, an inspiration to all and shows just what can be done with some tools, blood, sweet and of course some serious skills.

You have to wonder where the hell this thing was stored to have all this rust! Looks like it was driven into a saltweater lake! Bloody pop rivet repairs, I hate seeing that!.
__________________
Go Hard or go home..

Reply With Quote


Find this Ad annoying? Want it removed? Then register now!.. It's FREE! Click HERE.
  #32  
Old 20-10-2010, 04:07 PM
18htan's Avatar
18htan 18htan is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 2,320
Name: Nate
Amazing...

I sure hope my Belair does not end up that bad.

Tim, you truly do some great work and make it look so bloody easy.
__________________
Cheers Nate

Must give up women... Well more than 1 anyway.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old 20-10-2010, 04:45 PM
ElectricOrange69's Avatar
ElectricOrange69 ElectricOrange69 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 434
Name: Warren
Had a really good look through all the photos - an unbelievable amount of work !!!! As Nate said above - amazing.....

At least on the up side the VIN tag wasn't rusty
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old 20-10-2010, 11:29 PM
dirtbag's Avatar
dirtbag dirtbag is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
Posts: 99
Name: Tim
That's true Warren. The alloy wheels also seem to be quite rust free hahaha
__________________
J's Customs & Fabrication
0423 818180
Sunshine Coast Qld
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old 21-10-2010, 04:50 AM
BlackoutSteve's Avatar
BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Victoria. The Nanny State
Posts: 11,261
Name: Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by YellaTerra69 View Post
At least on the up side the VIN tag wasn't rusty
What about the 2 hidden VINs.. Have they survived?
__________________
Elephant http://img.ps2netdrivers.net/img/a1/marshall.amplifier.acoustic.as50d.soloist/mini.jpg (click on the amp!) Post pictures! ..or it never happened.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 21-10-2010, 06:24 PM
dirtbag's Avatar
dirtbag dirtbag is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
Posts: 99
Name: Tim
I guess I am a glutten for punishment, as I've also been working on a 1963 Pontiac Bonneville 2 door. It's probably one of the rustiest cars I've ever had to fix.
When I unbolted the body off the chassis, the chassis collapsed in two. Nice : )



Here's a nice looking sill panel.



Took a while but eventually got it all stripped back to metal. Well, there was SOME metal there anyway : )



Everything stripped and in etch primer.



After unbolting the body I propped it up on the chassis with some timber. You can see how hollow the chassis is.



No surprises then when it broke in two. It was pretty funny actually. The owner has another chassis so it's no biggie.



This is the inner sill where the chassis rail used to run. It's all had it.







Most of the rust is now cut out and replaced, and the wheel tubs have been enlarged to fit 20x16 wheels, but it's still a work in progress. I'll hopefully get back into it again soon.
If anyone is interested in seeing more just say so. I have stacks of pics of this build up too.
I also did a tub job and made new floors for a 1959 Plymouth Suburban wagon to fit more 20x16s. Yes, it's the same owner : ) Love his style.
__________________
J's Customs & Fabrication
0423 818180
Sunshine Coast Qld
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old 22-10-2010, 08:05 AM
Tim 454's Avatar
Tim 454 Tim 454 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mackay
Posts: 121
Name: Tim
Tim, mate, credit to you, i'm sure a lot of people would have put these in the too hard basket or too far gone pile... but wow!!! bloody good work...

Definitely more pics!! & 20x16's thats just nuts...
__________________
Good things come to those who get divorced...

SS Chevelle - The Manhattan Project

53 Chevy 150 - Lead Sled

F100 - Trophy Rat
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 22-10-2010, 11:31 AM
GM NUT's Avatar
GM NUT GM NUT is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: PERTH
Posts: 1,692
Name: RUSS
Good work Tim...
As a sheetmetal worker i can appreciate the amount of work you have done....
Russ
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 22-10-2010, 01:02 PM
AUSCAMARO's Avatar
AUSCAMARO AUSCAMARO is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Perth
Posts: 3,152
Name: Mitch
Yesaah.... Bring on the Pics... We LURV Pics!
__________________
"I usually downshift when I'm near a Prius so they can hear me hurting the environment"
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old 22-10-2010, 05:25 PM
CudaDownUnder's Avatar
CudaDownUnder CudaDownUnder is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 10
Name: Ed
Hi Tim,

I've just spent over an hour staring at these pictures and I must applaud your work - well done! The rust in the Pontiac is incredible. Please keep the pics coming.

Now to pick your brain... I have a few questions:

* You mention that you use a rust converter before applying an etch primer. What brand of rust converter and etch primer do you use?

* From the photos I get the impression that you clean the rusted metal, then apply a rust converter and then sand clean with 80(?) grit before the applying the etch primer? Is that right or do you sand before the rust converter and then prime?

* When plug welding two over-lapping metal pieces (i.e. the Camaro floor pan sections), do you use a seam sealer? If so, do you apply it before or after priming? Or it this something you leave for the painter?

Cheers, Ed.
Reply With Quote
  #41  
Old 22-10-2010, 06:21 PM
dirtbag's Avatar
dirtbag dirtbag is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Sunshine Coast Qld
Posts: 99
Name: Tim
Hey guys, glad you're liking the pics.

Hi Ed. The rust converter I use is Plus brand. I use it because it's good, easy to apply and doesn't need to be washed off like some converters do. I use protec epoxy etch primer.
Yes you're right about the process. Clean the metal, rust convert, let the converter dry then sand with 80-120 grit dry paper and etch prime straight away. It's how I've been doing it for years and so far has served me well.
As for plug welds, yes I do use a seam sealer, but after I've etch primed. I like to get the metal sealed off first.
I hope that helps.

Here's the 59 plymouth wagon getting the mild tub job.



Considering the size of the wheels, there isn't a lot that needs changing. The leaf springs were relocated to inside the rails and then the original tubs were stretched until they were in line with the chassis. Once that was done the 20x16s had enough room. You've got to love big american cars : )

Here is the rear section before I cut anything. The owner wants the 3 rows of benches to still operate afterwards, so I'll need to narrow the middle and rear seat to suit.



Here's one of the wheels. Very subtle. Not : )



Here's my size 11 boot.



Here I've cut the side of the tub out, trimmed 70mm out of the floor and welded the side of the tub back in. Now I just need to reshape the tub and fill in the gap.



I had to be really careful with the reshaping I did to make sure the middle seat would still pivot and lock in the upright position.



The tub looks bad as it has this step in it. It's there because from the step back on this side is the fuel tank, and on the other side is where the spare wheel sits.



To make sure the rear seat had an even hole to sit in I made these ledges so the seat didn't have to have the step in it too. I also made new pivot mounts for the seat and fitted them into the new ledges. That's the 4 holes with captive nuts in the pic.



The original tubs are long and smooth so I wanted to get that look back again so when it's all trimmed it doesn't look modified. I used some more sheet metal to shape up some panels to smooth the tub from where it steps out to the back of the car.



Here it is with the 2 rear bench seats cut down and all the mounts and latches remade to suit. I like the look. It's very subtle.



I also made 3 new floor pans and rear quarter lower sections because of rust. Apart from that it's a really solid car.



Got to love this : )



I'll post some more bonneville pics later if you want to see any of it's build up.
__________________
J's Customs & Fabrication
0423 818180
Sunshine Coast Qld
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 22-10-2010, 07:38 PM
BlackoutSteve's Avatar
BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Victoria. The Nanny State
Posts: 11,261
Name: Steve
Great work. I love the sort of modifications that are well executed, and un-noticeable.
Great tub-work and narrowing of the rear seat so it still functions and looks as original. I like that.

Nothing worse than a modification that looks like a modification.
__________________
Elephant http://img.ps2netdrivers.net/img/a1/marshall.amplifier.acoustic.as50d.soloist/mini.jpg (click on the amp!) Post pictures! ..or it never happened.

Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 22-10-2010 at 07:42 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 22-10-2010, 09:11 PM
68Camaro's Avatar
68Camaro 68Camaro is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Gold Coast
Posts: 137
Name: Graham
I am awestruck this is truly great work. I admire it even more because its not the easy road. YOU SAVED HER!!! no two ways about it. You seem to have a habit of that.

Id love to come and see your shop, im up the sunshine coast alot as my sister lives there. I pit crewed for Jeff Barnes racing team in Nambor for a while too

Let me know if it would be cool to drop in.


Graham

Last edited by 68Camaro; 22-10-2010 at 09:17 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 22-10-2010, 09:52 PM
CudaDownUnder's Avatar
CudaDownUnder CudaDownUnder is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 10
Name: Ed
[QUOTE=dirtbag;48122]Hey guys, glad you're liking the pics.

Hi Ed. The rust converter I use is Plus brand. I use it because it's good, easy to apply and doesn't need to be washed off like some converters do. I use protec epoxy etch primer.
Yes you're right about the process. Clean the metal, rust convert, let the converter dry then sand with 80-120 grit dry paper and etch prime straight away. It's how I've been doing it for years and so far has served me well.
As for plug welds, yes I do use a seam sealer, but after I've etch primed. I like to get the metal sealed off first.
I hope that helps.

Here's the 59 plymouth wagon getting the mild tub job.
QUOTE]

Thanks Tim.
The Plymouth factory applied the seam sealer before the primer on my Cuda. After a few years the sealer shrank and "hey presto" there's surface rust under every bit of sealer - I knew they got it wrong! Picking out sealer is a crappy job...

Again, thanks for the tips. And please keep the photos and tips coming.
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 22-10-2010, 11:31 PM
tonner's Avatar
tonner tonner is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Perth
Posts: 1,907
Name: Greg
Great work there Tim. Really good to see some great metal working skills.

Greg
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT +10. The time now is 03:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Ad Management plugin by RedTyger