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  #76  
Old 16-11-2017, 03:02 PM
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aussie69camaro aussie69camaro is offline
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Roadster shop full chassis also takes time, one of my mates put in an order and it took over 12 months to get here which is currently going under a 68 Camaro as we speak. He wished he hadn't gone down that path.
Max 275 tyre is small, Ill be running a 275 on the stock frame rails easy.

I was a the optima challenge last week in Vegas and guys were running 335s on the front, a lot were just running clips/unibody setup still.

Id save the cash and do what you only need for your end goal and nothing more.

Ill be running a speedtech torque arm in the rear. Dont even need chassis connectors as the torque arm does that job.
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1969 Camaro
L98/T56 Combo
Speedtech front end
Baer 6P

Last edited by aussie69camaro; 16-11-2017 at 03:04 PM..
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  #77  
Old 16-11-2017, 07:03 PM
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LS3 HQ LS3 HQ is offline
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Hey Sean no guru here but I’d go with the new Speedtech front sub with their torque arm rear. Pretty easy install and great quality.

Looks as though you will be replacing your entire floor front to back so your gonna need new frame rails anyway? You can buy a complete floor which has rails/trunk already in place.
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  #78  
Old 17-11-2017, 07:33 AM
Booah Booah is offline
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buy a new mustang...................its got heated seats
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  #79  
Old 20-11-2017, 03:03 PM
seanj seanj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth 69 View Post
Currently weighing up big tyres up front myself - even contacted RideTech re: Tru-Turn but can't be used with rack n pinion - tried ignoring the want but if you want to track the car big tyres are certainly king (Just read some Ron Sutton posts to realise how under-cooked my aims can sometimes be )
That settles it then... you'll have to get a new front subframe

Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie69camaro View Post
Roadster shop full chassis also takes time, one of my mates put in an order and it took over 12 months to get here which is currently going under a 68 Camaro as we speak. He wished he hadn't gone down that path.
Max 275 tyre is small, Ill be running a 275 on the stock frame rails easy.

I was a the optima challenge last week in Vegas and guys were running 335s on the front, a lot were just running clips/unibody setup still.

Id save the cash and do what you only need for your end goal and nothing more.

Ill be running a speedtech torque arm in the rear. Dont even need chassis connectors as the torque arm does that job.
That's good to know Adam. The 275 tyre restriction was a bit of a turn off. That's true that most of the Optima and similar event competitors are still running unibodies. Speedtech allows a 315 front tyre section with their Extreme Subframe I think. They even sell pumped out inner fenders to allow fitment.

Also, jelous that you got to go to that event.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LS3 HQ View Post
Hey Sean no guru here but I’d go with the new Speedtech front sub with their torque arm rear. Pretty easy install and great quality.

Looks as though you will be replacing your entire floor front to back so your gonna need new frame rails anyway? You can buy a complete floor which has rails/trunk already in place.
Speetech is definitely an option. I just need to do the research on 4 link vs torque arm rear ends...
I didn't realise you could buy the floor pans and rails pre-joined. Which vendor?
You can replace them separately by unpicking the spot welds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Booah View Post
buy a new mustang...................its got heated seats
yeah... nah
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RIP - 1969 Camaro, green/black vinyl. 540 BBC, th400, Holley EFI, 4.10 TrueTrac Dana 60, too much rust and not enough traction. 11.015 @ 111mph
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  #80  
Old 21-11-2017, 08:38 AM
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aussie69camaro aussie69camaro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanj View Post
That settles it then... you'll have to get a new front subframe



That's good to know Adam. The 275 tyre restriction was a bit of a turn off. That's true that most of the Optima and similar event competitors are still running unibodies. Speedtech allows a 315 front tyre section with their Extreme Subframe I think. They even sell pumped out inner fenders to allow fitment.

Also, jelous that you got to go to that event.



Speetech is definitely an option. I just need to do the research on 4 link vs torque arm rear ends...
I didn't realise you could buy the floor pans and rails pre-joined. Which vendor?
You can replace them separately by unpicking the spot welds.



yeah... nah
Give Jay from Speedtech a call man, he is always happy to help with anything. I have been up to see him each year now since I bought some speedtech gear and they are always updating and changing gear whenever I visit the shop.
Its a very affordable way to go as there is so much on the market that will just smash the bank account unnecessarily.
He can also get other stuff from other suppliers and put it all into one shipment for you too which makes things a whole lot easier.
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1969 Camaro
L98/T56 Combo
Speedtech front end
Baer 6P
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  #81  
Old 21-01-2018, 10:32 PM
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D4RKSIDE D4RKSIDE is offline
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Good news! Sean's back on the horse! Literally one horse power, but hey it's a safe start.
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  #82  
Old 22-01-2018, 01:25 PM
seanj seanj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D4RKSIDE View Post
Good news! Sean's back on the horse! Literally one horse power, but hey it's a safe start.
It's even the correct colour!
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RIP - 1969 Camaro, green/black vinyl. 540 BBC, th400, Holley EFI, 4.10 TrueTrac Dana 60, too much rust and not enough traction. 11.015 @ 111mph
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  #83  
Old 28-02-2018, 11:03 PM
seanj seanj is offline
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A few things to update on.

The body is now on a purpose designed 69 Camaro frame courtesy of Greg (aka. mr Crisis).



I've started pulling then engine down, more from curiosity than anything.

Short block with it's glorious ARP stud kit



The bores look fine. No lip to be felt. A little bit of scuffing, but I think that's unavoidable with big block stroker as the piston comp. height is short so there is a lot of piston rock/slap when the engine is cold. I'll pull some bottom end bearings and if they're all good the engine will go back together... maybe just a cam change.



I've resigned myself to the fact that I'm going to replace both rear quarters.

The quarters are warped over the wheel opening from a poor install



Where the quarters join the tail light panel is horribly ugly



And at least on one side both the inner and outer wheel tubs need to be replaced



I think with all that rear work, replacing the rear quarters is going to become a no-brainer.

I've sold off a lot of stuff to buy some panels and clear some room. When I got rid of the old front brake setup and discovered how much life I had left on the front pads from the track day... the answer is not a lot



While I haven't done a lot on the car in the last couple of months, I have been getting ready for the work. I've got all my welding and metalwork gear now and I have built a welding/metalwork cart/table to move the gear around and beat some metal.




Hopefully next update should see the start of the body repairs!
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RIP - 1969 Camaro, green/black vinyl. 540 BBC, th400, Holley EFI, 4.10 TrueTrac Dana 60, too much rust and not enough traction. 11.015 @ 111mph
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  #84  
Old 02-03-2018, 07:38 AM
Booah Booah is offline
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looking good Sean. Hope realise that when your finished......your not really finished
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  #85  
Old 02-03-2018, 08:32 AM
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aussie69camaro aussie69camaro is offline
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Its good to see you are tackling everything yourself. A good test, good luck with it
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  #86  
Old 01-04-2018, 11:47 PM
seanj seanj is offline
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Took my first big leap into the world of metal replacement the last few weekends. It's a big step for me, so excuse the saga!

I started with the drivers side floor as it is out of sight, so my mistakes could be easily hidden! The section in front of the floorpans, behind the body mount support is pitted quite badly. This is sold as a full replacement panel, but I only needed a small section replaced.



So I bravely tore into the floor with the pneumatic cutoff tool. I took out a section that was mostly rusted away and was just going to weld up the remaining holes.
It's actually a pretty crap spot to work. Too tight to get a grinder into the floorpan area and a lot of leaning forward to cut/prep/weld.



Shaped up a piece with a hammer after making a cardboard template. just kept beating it until it fit ok.



And then welded it into place. Bit of a pain to weld and hard to get into there with a grinder to clean up my sh1te welds... but no one is going to see it.



I ran into problems when i tried to weld up the remaining holes. The floorpans are thin to start with and had thined out badly. The metal was blowing through immediately when I tried to weld.
So I took a trick out of one of the 'How to Repair Sheetmetal' books and pulled out some spare copper pipe I had lying around. I hammered the end of it flat to use as a backing piece to absorb the heat and stop the metal blowing out.



This worked a freakin treat! The only problem was that due to the body mount support, I could access most of the holes with the copper pipe.

While I was under the car I realised the bottom of the body mount support hadn't been welded to the floor when the floor pans had been replaced. It looked like this



And it should have looked like this (passenger side)... dodgy bloody repairs!

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RIP - 1969 Camaro, green/black vinyl. 540 BBC, th400, Holley EFI, 4.10 TrueTrac Dana 60, too much rust and not enough traction. 11.015 @ 111mph

Last edited by seanj; 01-04-2018 at 11:57 PM..
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  #87  
Old 01-04-2018, 11:57 PM
seanj seanj is offline
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I wasn't comfortable with these panels being disconnected, so I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone. I made a sandwich panel which went up behind the pitted floor area which would allow me to weld the holes in the thinned metal. This would also tie the bottom of the body mount support to the rest of the floor as it should have been when it was repaired!



This little panel slid behind the rust holes and let me weld them up fully.



Cleaned up as best as I could without getting a grinder in there. At lest it looks better than the repair job on the floor pans which I inherited... although that's not too hard



Go the whole body and frame up on the hoist to do the under-floor work... I can see this is going to make my life easier in the future doing a lot more work underneath.



Got some firewall patching, passenger floor and cowl 'cheek' repair to come next.
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RIP - 1969 Camaro, green/black vinyl. 540 BBC, th400, Holley EFI, 4.10 TrueTrac Dana 60, too much rust and not enough traction. 11.015 @ 111mph
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  #88  
Old 02-04-2018, 01:58 AM
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Sean, you'll have that fabrication work sorted in time. You'll be amazed how quickly your skill level will progress.

Nice Start!
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  #89  
Old 02-04-2018, 07:40 PM
Jaba Jaba is offline
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Good progress mate, were you using a gasless setup? If you weren't then you might benefit from increasing the flow rate, as those welds look like they weren't shielded when welded.
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  #90  
Old 02-04-2018, 10:47 PM
seanj seanj is offline
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Good progress mate, were you using a gasless setup? If you weren't then you might benefit from increasing the flow rate, as those welds look like they weren't shielded when welded.
nah, gas MIG. Running about 16L/min. might be too high if anything?

Maybe I should increase the pre-flow too?
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RIP - 1969 Camaro, green/black vinyl. 540 BBC, th400, Holley EFI, 4.10 TrueTrac Dana 60, too much rust and not enough traction. 11.015 @ 111mph
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