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  #46  
Old 03-11-2014, 05:57 AM
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I got to spend a very brief bit of time in the garage this Sunday… not as long as I had hoped or planned but enough that stage 1 of operation remove the engine was achieved.. so the gearbox is out again… Now, I’ve skipped the usual detail of how such an event occurred, but I figured that as this is the second time I’ve removed this box, you can just go back & reread that part of this thread…



Now for a pic of the actual issue that prompted me to pull the engine the very annoying oil leak…



What do you mean you can’t see it?... look closer…



Ok.. so it doesn’t look like much, but this drip leaves a 1cm pool of oil a day under the car & that is more than enough to add up to a mess on the garage floor is the car sits for a week or more & I figure that the oil is better off in the actual engine too… so next weekend it’s coming out.

I also removed the old bonnet hinges, they used to be very wobbly & didn’t have a very smooth action at all… on closer inspection I see that the drivers side one has cogs & the teeth are well worn & very rounded off… so this clearly explains that. Getting the bolts out was fun… as much as I’m glad that there was as much rust protection sprayed under this car as there was to protect against winters in the UK & Ireland…. Undoing bolts that are coated in this crap is hard work…



The worn cogs..





And the straight cut new ones… hopefully the bonnet will have a smoother action once these ones are on..



Now if you cast your mind back a post or two you’ll remember that I’m switching headers from Hooker to Dougs now to gain back some much needed ground clearance & as such I need to fit a new mini starter for the Dougs to fit… well I was expecting the old starter to be a bit bigger that it actually was… it’s not exactly huge compared to the new mini one



Also the terminials are slightly different between the two, the old one is a twin post setup



The new one is a single post & a blade connector so a little bit of rewiring will be needed, but looks nice & simple thankfully



So that’s it till next weekend when I pull the motor & start to replace any & all seals or gaskets that are leaking & replace the buggered mounts etc…
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1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
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1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver
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  #47  
Old 10-11-2014, 08:47 AM
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I got a bit of time this weekend to make a bit more progress on this…. So the transmission was out & next up was to remove all the engine accessories & then the engine…

The first thing that I removed was the vac tank & once this was out I strated to ponder where I’m going to install the new vac pump that I’ll be running… first thought was just to leave the vac tank out.. but then I started to think if I should leave it in..



So I guess I’m in two minds now… as I’m going to install an electric vac pump for the brakes, do I need this taking up room in the engine bay…. Technically I guess I don’t, but as the pump will be controlled by a vac pressure switch I guess if I don’t have the holding tank then the pump will be running constantly.. but with the tank still in place once the tank is full the pump will turn off until the level of vac drops again….



The next steps where pretty simple really.. I removed the Alternator, the PS pump, the clutch fan… then drained the radiator & removed that from the bay..



The parts pile as it started to build up..



The radiator seems to be in great condition, but that said I think I’ll take this opportunity to have a rad place look it over & give it a good flush.. I’m also thinking that when I put all of this back together that I might look at running waterless coolant rather than going back to old school coolant..



Then once everything was disconnected from the engine & the only thing holding it in the car was the two engine mount bolts.. I connected the engine lift to the engine & took up the weight as the block was leaning rearwards as the transmission was no longer holding it up.. with the weight off the mounts the bolts just slid out..



Then just slowly jack the motor up & out



Out & free… sadly right now it’s sitting on a tire & not bolted to my engine stand as I didn’t have 4 bolts the right thread & length to attach it to the engine stand that I have… I’ll get some bolts today so I can put it on the stand & then I can start tearing it down..



I can see clearly now why even after new header gaskets there was always an annoying header leak… more of the exhaust ports where leaking than not.. the headers themselves where no longer flat..





---------- Post added at 09:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:44 AM ----------

Next step was to remove the driver’s side header that runs through the steering… I opted to just cut the pipe open rather than unbolt the steering at this stage..





Next step was to remove the driver’s side header that runs through the steering… I opted to just cut the pipe open rather than unbolt the steering at this stage..





Now that the drive train is fully out I’ll take this opportunity to clean back the bay & check both front chassis rails for any rust as they are a known week point on these E bodies I’m told & they are the only sections of chassis that I haven’t been able to fully inspect yet..







Now there are a couple of tasks to be done in whilst the engine is out, so one of the first will be swapping the rear drum brakes for my new shiny Baer disks… so I’ve laid out all the parts & I reckon I’ll try & get an hour or so one night this week to do the swap… looks simple enough..

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1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver

Last edited by DaveD; 10-11-2014 at 08:53 AM..
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  #48  
Old 12-11-2014, 07:42 PM
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Dude, I love this car & your write ups are great!!
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  #49  
Old 13-11-2014, 12:28 PM
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Lovin this thread ,...keep posting.
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  #50  
Old 14-11-2014, 02:07 PM
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Thanks guys... The updates will keep flowing as I do more work.. Think I can only get a few hours in the garage Sat sadly this weekend so not a lot of progress may be made
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1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
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  #51  
Old 14-11-2014, 05:21 PM
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Agree with Nathan your. Write ups and work are first class.
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  #52  
Old 17-11-2014, 09:05 AM
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Just some updates from the weekend… this update may be a little pic heavy, so sorry if you’re on a slow interwebs connection..

When I pulled the engine out last weekend I didn’t have the right bolts to put it on my engine stand as the bolts that hold the transmission to the engine where too short & the long bolts that I had for the stand where for my ford & didn’t match the thread pattern, so the first thing I did was get the correct bolts & now the engine is on the stand & the crane is packed away again.. happy days.



This update is all about the Baer brake install so the first task was a very simple one… remove the master cylinder from the car as I’ll be replacing it anyway & this way it will limit the amount of brake fluid that will be able to run down the lines when I disconnect them as I swap out the old brakes.



As you would expect the next step was to pick an end to start at & jack it up & remove the wheels.. I opted to remove the old drum brakes first as I figured if I was going to run into issue that required any addition parts of part modifications it would most likely be at the rear with the drum to disk swap so I wanted to have as much time on the weekend to source bits if needed..



Now of course whenever you’re looking at bigger brakes you need to check that the wheels will fit on & not bind on the calipers.. so the first thing I did when I had the wheels off was to sit the new setup into the wheel to check said clearances.. so the rears have heaps of room as you’d expect as I’m running a 17” rim & they are only 11” rotors & 4 piston calipers..





Then I sat in the fronts which I figured should also be fine as the kit suggested that it fit all 17” rims & some 16” rims… & it’s fine on my 17”s but I’m not sure how it would fit any 16”s as the gap is pretty tight, if it fit a 16” I reckon you’d have a gap from the rim to the caliper that could be measured with a feeler gauge..





So once I knew that the wheels would go back on (never doubted it, but it’s a 20 second check) I decided to test assemble the rear kit to be 100% sure that I knew exactly how the backing plates, part shoe assembly, caliper brackets & the actual caliper all went together.. again I’d rather do this clean on the bench than learn that there is some weird way of assembly that needs to be conducted whilst covered in old brake dust & fluid, axle grease & diff oil







---------- Post added at 10:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 AM ----------

The kit instructions talked in depth about shimming the calipers when they are installed to ensure that the pads sit an equidistance from the disk face on both the inside & the outside, according to the tech guys at Baer.. skipping that step is the number one cause of unwanted brake noise







Now that I was happy with how the whole new kit went together & I’d read the install instructions to ensure that there was no line that said something like “make sure you don’t pull this bit off” or ensure that you have some extra part that the kit doesn’t have in it.. so time to remove the old drums







I discovered on the passenger’s side when I pulled the drum off that at some point the lower spring had come undone & the bottom of the shoe had been dragging on the drum.. there was a lot of brake dust to be cleaned off..







---------- Post added at 10:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:00 AM ----------

The kit instructions talked in depth about shimming the calipers when they are installed to ensure that the pads sit an equidistance from the disk face on both the inside & the outside, according to the tech guys at Baer.. skipping that step is the number one cause of unwanted brake noise







Now that I was happy with how the whole new kit went together & I’d read the install instructions to ensure that there was no line that said something like “make sure you don’t pull this bit off” or ensure that you have some extra part that the kit doesn’t have in it.. so time to remove the old drums







I discovered on the passenger’s side when I pulled the drum off that at some point the lower spring had come undone & the bottom of the shoe had been dragging on the drum.. there was a lot of brake dust to be cleaned off..







---------- Post added at 10:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 AM ----------

With all of the springs & shoes removed it then just a case of sliding the socket through the access hole in the axle flange & undoing the 5 retaining nuts that hold the axle in place



Undo the nuts but not all the way off.. depending on when the last time the axle was out & tight the fit is you may need some force to pull the axle out & the last thing you need is an axle to the face



Once the axle pulls out to meet the loosened nuts then you’re home & hosed, simply & gently slide the axle out… at this point if you have a smaller garage than mine hopefully you’ve measure that you have enough distance to your closest wall to get the full length of the axle out, they don’t bend too well… diff oil will pour out so when you are pulling the axle free of its seal have a basin or catch can of some sort to take the oil





With the axle removed the drum backing plate just pulls off, be aware that there is a metal gasket behind this that need to be checked too & replaced if needed… sorry forgot to get a pic of that



It’s a no brainer to check your bearings & seals at this point for any wear & replace as needed… I had the axle bearings & seals redone not so long ago & they still looked fine



Now it was finally time to start putting on some new shiny bits, with the drum backing plate gone the new backing plate bracket for the kit needs to be installed.. the studs on the driver’s side didn’t really line up for the plate to slip on so they needed a gentle tap with the knockometer to line them up nicely





With the studs now lined up correctly it was time to bolt the backing plate to the park brake shoe assembly & then attach both to the diff housing..

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1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver
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  #53  
Old 17-11-2014, 09:10 AM
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Then you gently slide the axle back into the diff, being very careful to hold it straight & level as you do, remembering that the end is splined so you’ll probably never get the splines lined up so you have to gently turn it as you slide it in the last two inches.. make sure to tap is fully home.. they do not recommend using the nuts to tighten & pull the axle in, just a tap of two from a rubber mallet did the trick for me





Then simply torque down the nuts to lock the axle back into place again



The new park brake assembly is supposed to hook up to the OEM park brake cable, so I hooked it into the holding bracket to see just how true that was…



And not very was the answer… my brand new OEM cable is a too long, the return spring too long & the end is a ball style where it needs to be an eye to attach to the pull hook for the new assembly, so some mods to the end of my cable are clearly needed





The kit also comes with a new bracket to hold the join where the new flexi hose from the caliper will join the hard brake line.. the bracket is fine, but their supplied method of attaching to the diff of using a jubilee clip is not something I’m fond off so I’ll sort something a bit better for that, I don’t know if I want to weld it to the diff… I’ll see



Then I simply slid the new shiny disk onto the axle studs



The caliper requires a bracket to be installed between it & the backing plate, so that was a simple two bolts



Then you just bolt the caliper to that bracket with another two bolts & then the job is almost done..



---------- Post added at 10:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:06 AM ----------

Then it was time to start the shimming process.. to do this you need the wheel nuts to be with some spacers to hold the disk tight to the axle just as they would be with the wheel on..



They provide a wealth of differing thickness shims to cover just about any circumstance that you could come across I reckon.. if it’s out by more than they give you shims for you’ve probably got the disk on one car & the caliper on another..



The process is pretty simple, you can do this with the pads installed by using feeler gauges to measure the top inside & top outside gaps between disk & pad & also the bottom inside & bottom outside gap between the disk & pad



Or you can remove the pads & use a Vernier calipers to measure the top inside & top outside gaps between disk & pad & also the bottom inside & bottom outside gap between the disk & pad… this is their suggested method & as I had the right tool this is the way I went



The idea is to measure the top inside & outside distances from the caliper inside face to the disk.. then subtract the smaller number from the larger one. This gives you how far off the worst side is, then half this number & that is the width of shim you need to place either between the caliper & the bracket move the caliper outboard or between the bracket & the backing plate to move the caliper inboard.. I need to move the caliper outboard about 1mm





Shim installed & gap set, the disk spins freely





Then simply repeat the process on the other side & then you end up with a disk rear end… happy days…



---------- Post added at 10:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:07 AM ----------

Then I bolted a wheel on to see just how little of this beautiful sight can be seen through the wheel openings… to be honest I’m happy with the look, you see just enough to know that there is some substance behind the wheel but not enough to be too blingly



They look pretty good from the back side too



It was at this point that I felt all of this was going way way too easy for my car… & then I noticed that the wheel studs don’t sick out anywhere near enough now… I never measured them before, but now I only have 8mm of threads for the wheel nut to thread onto… I never thought to measure them before I started for comparison so I have no idea how long they were… but I measured the fronts before starting on them & they had 12mm.. so I’ll have to order some new longer studs & then remove the brakes & the axles again to swap the stock studs out for longer one…. sigh



---------- Post added at 10:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 AM ----------

Then it was onto the fronts to see how easy they were as all in all the rear swap was way less painful that I had any right to imagine given how so many previous owners have bugger this car up over her life, so up in the air the front went



These are the old single piston disks that she’s currently running



Disconnected the brake lines & unbolted the old caliper off



Old single piston caliper vs the new 6 piston job



Then remove the dust cover off the front of the old disk hub to reveal the cotter pin & the retaining nut



Remove the pin, remove the nut & gently slide the whole assembly off the spindle being very careful not to let the bearings fall out



Once you’ve done this inspect your spindles to be sure that they are not badly worn… mine are fine as I only checked them a few months back when I did the suspension swap of the front end..



Baer say to remove the old dust shield as it only gets in the way of proper cooling



Then you install the new caliper bracket using the old caliper bolts, the kit doesn’t supply replacements for these bolts… the bracket doesn’t fit, they clearly call this out in the instructions & about 2mm of the spindle frame had to be ground away to make room for the bracket



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1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver
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  #54  
Old 17-11-2014, 09:11 AM
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Once the grinding is done, it all lines up nicely



Then you install the new hub



They supply a nice little billet end cap that screws on to protect the bearing



Then they say that when you install the new disk to bolt it in place using the wheel nuts & some spacers right away to stop it moving & scratching the painted surface of the hub.. also unlike the rears which happily sat on the studs with no assistance these fronts are a little heavier & wanted to slide off



Then bolt the caliper onto the bracket & start the measurement process again to determine what level of shimming is required to get the caliper centered on the disk just like with the rears









Then repeat on the other side & there you have it a 4 disk Challenger… can’t wait to get the other bits I have planned for this little overhaul done so I can get out on the road & feel what a difference these make to the stopping ability… this will probably be a few weeks away yet.. although as my other half pointed out on Sunday if I didn’t stop every 2 minutes & take pictures I’d be done by now.. hahaha… so I blame you lot

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1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver
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  #55  
Old 17-11-2014, 10:56 AM
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Angry Angry is offline
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Great thread, love to see how different cars go togrther.
can't wait to see more.
Im surprised however at the use of heim joints in place of the inner n outter tie rods, n no protective covers.
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  #56  
Old 17-11-2014, 02:24 PM
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Hey Al,

Yes, I was a bit surprised when the suspension kit turned up with no seals… when I spoke with several people including the manufacturer on this, I really got a divided world… some say not to put any boots/covers around them as that can/will trap moisture & dirt & speed up rusting and/or wear… & that all I should do is clean them regularly… & given that I have a hoist I tend to inspect & clean the underside of the car after every outing & check all the nuts bolts, seals etc on a weekly basis so I’m not too worried

Now the other side of the argument I heard was that the boots seals actually help to protect the joint etc… juts as you & I would expect… someone also told me they are illegal in Aus without the boots seals.. although my engineer seemed fine with them..

Cut a long story short, I have two different boot/seal kits that I bought to cover these joints & I just haven’t gotten around to cracking everything open again to install them… I might do this as the car is off the road for a bit now with the engine out
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1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver

Last edited by DaveD; 17-11-2014 at 04:37 PM..
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  #57  
Old 17-11-2014, 05:19 PM
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Dave you have a lot of really trick parts there ....looking real nice
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  #58  
Old 18-11-2014, 12:11 AM
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Dave, Yeah Im the same if I did run them, then Id want to run boots on em,....n still check em...
Lookin good.
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  #59  
Old 15-12-2014, 10:44 AM
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I got a few hours in the garage this Saturday so I started to clean the worst of the thick crap off the engine..



Some of the oil & grime is so thick that I’m going to need something stronger than the store sold degreaser in a can to get it off, but I got a fair bit off before I decided to just start pulling bits off the engine… first up was to drop the oil pan off



Then I unbolted the intake off the top, the bolts where very loose, only took a tine turn on them before they became finger loose & when I had them out they look a little short, can’t be more than a few threads holding the intake on to the block… also they are covered in liquid silicone & crap.. the amount of silicone I found holding this engine together is crazy…





With the intake off I was able to have a good look at the cam & the lifters… they look good, very little wear on them, although I expected to find that as I had been told that the engine had a cam put in it sometime in the past







---------- Post added at 11:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 AM ----------

Then I spun the engine over on the engine stand so I could have a close look at the bottom end & see if it looked as clean as the top did



When I looked inside the oil pan I was happy to see that there was really no metal at all inside it on the magnet, when I took the windage tray off it was spotless too really, as was the end of the oil pick up screen





I then decided to pull one end cap off to see how the bearing shell looked & then to take one big end off & again inspect the bearing… I’m glad I did as the bearings where showing signs of wear, so I pulled all the caps off & they were all bad… so I’m now resigned to pulling the crank out & getting it cleaned up & checked before putting new bearings back in.















I also had a good look down the bores of the cylinders & they looked good, you could still see the hone marks in the bores & they all feel smooth & the pistons look fresh too.. so looks like bearings are the only bad bit so far… well except the oil pump

---------- Post added at 11:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------

I decided to crack the tip off the oil pump & have a look at how the internals are as the oil pressure runs a little lower than I’d like, although that could indeed be the gauge not being very accurate… but with the top plate off you can see the shiny signs of wear





I then pulled out the internals to have a close look..





Now it’s hard to see in the pics here, but at some point in its life this oil pump sucked a heap of metal through itself… there are lots of gouges & scrapes all inside it, its badly worn.. the rest of the engine is so clean & lots of new parts I wonder if the motor was rebuilt after a failure some years ago but the oil pump not replaced… very odd









---------- Post added at 11:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:42 AM ----------

Pulled the water pump of to see how the internals look, the blades where fine but the amount of scale on the inside was a bit more than I wanted to see, so I’ll fit a new one





]



Then I pulled the harmonic balancer off the front of the engine as I knew it was no longer any good.. I had assumed that the rubber section was cracked, but it actually turns out that the metal is cracked where it slides onto the crank end



Luckily it doesn’t seem to have damaged the crank end, but I’ll get it checked anyway



Next job was to take the timing chain off, so I spun the engine over to get the number 1 cylinder around to top dead center



Oddly when I did that the timing marks did not line up at all… not even close





I tried again double checking that I had number 1 at TDC… but nope not lined up on the timing marks… so I opted to line the timing marks up & then see where the engine was at.. seems that with the timing marks lined up the engine has number 6 sitting at TDC… not sure why as the engine runs really well… need to do a bit of research on that clearly..

---------- Post added at 11:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 AM ----------

Last job of the day was to carefully remove the crank from the block so I can get it sent off for a linish & have it checked out & new bearings ordered..





So now I play the waiting game for parts again… still gives me lots of time to clean the crap off the block & repaint it I guess…

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1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver
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  #60  
Old 15-12-2014, 04:18 PM
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Your not checking pistons, bores? With that much wear on the cam and bearings you would think they would be worn also.
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