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  #16  
Old 09-06-2009, 10:48 AM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Unless.....
Pg9

"1964-72 GM 12 Bolt car 8.875” 1.50” 35 4.10 & up # 187S196A(ch)

(ch) = custom housing with 3.25” bearing bore."

Might be in luck.. I'd much prefer a Detroit Locker over a Trutrac.

Just need to opt for 35 spline axles.
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  #17  
Old 11-06-2009, 06:32 PM
iViLe iViLe is offline
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Go the Tru Trac I have one in my 9 inch and it's the best diff ever, so smooth but always lights up both, If you like to hammer it around corners etc track stuff even in the wet, i'd go the tru trac..
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  #18  
Old 11-06-2009, 07:02 PM
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Thanks for your advice.. I have read a little about the Trutrac and the Detroit Locker.
They are kind of opposite to each other in operation.
The Trutrac operates normally as an open diff until there is a loss of traction, then the axles are locked.
The Locker operates normally as a locked diff until a different axle speed is required. It will only allow a differing axle speed when little power is being transmitted.
For big block torque and drag strip use I'm leaning toward the Locker. Clunky operation on the street is actually a plus.

The Locker will require 35 spline axles for the gearing I want, and machining to suit a 3.25" bearing. That doesn't bother me though..
But at least the Trutrac will allow me to use 33 splines in a stock 12 Bolt.

Anyway, here is the link from Eaton..

http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc.../FAQ/index.htm

and

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/publ.../ct_128302.pdf
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  #19  
Old 11-06-2009, 07:44 PM
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Aren't the Detroit lockers a bit difficult in corners? (just what I've heard)

Nev
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  #20  
Old 11-06-2009, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nev68 View Post
Aren't the Detroit lockers a bit difficult in corners? (just what I've heard)

Nev
Not if you plan to be sideways

On a serious note I went the locker, Steve for many of the same reasons as you have stated. I just paid for my moser 35 spline axles with custom full floating hubs last week, damn that left a dent in the bank balance wow !!!
(I'm a fabbed 9" with strange DL centre 3.55 geared)
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  #21  
Old 11-06-2009, 09:40 PM
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Only 3.55? C'mon, man, don't wimp out!

Damn, I currently have 4.11 (7 mpg highway!) and am going 4.3 or maybe even 4.56 when I order the 12 Bolt.
Priority #1. Reliable.
Priority #2. Fast.
Priority #3. Comfortable. -so I fitted air conditioning.
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  #22  
Old 11-06-2009, 09:56 PM
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Priority for me is comfort driving on the street first as initially this will be 100% street driven with my wife and 3yr old in it, later on it will be raced.

I have 800 Ft/Lbs of torque peaking at 4200 RPMs, through a TH400 with a 3000 stall, with the TH400 ratios and low peak RPMs I need it geared high so as to give reasonable streetability
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  #23  
Old 11-06-2009, 10:04 PM
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Just ribbing ya!
Wow, 800 ft/bs.. Fair enough.. About 200 more than me.
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  #24  
Old 12-06-2009, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoutsteve View Post
Only 3.55? C'mon, man, don't wimp out!

Damn, I currently have 4.11 (7 mpg highway!) and am going 4.3 or maybe even 4.56 when I order the 12 Bolt.
Priority #1. Reliable.
Priority #2. Fast.
Priority #3. Comfortable. -so I fitted air conditioning.
Steve,
How do you go with traction with those sort of gears?
I used to have a mild 350 in my HQ coupe with 3.55 LSD and there is no way I could get that to hook up consistently (may be something to do with the driver)

Nev
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  #25  
Old 12-06-2009, 05:54 PM
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So many variables..

Suspension, tyres, auto/manual, converter, tran's low gear ratio...
Are you talking street or strip?

The only way I could hook on the street, which was still fairly inconsistant depending on the road surface, was with M/T ET Streets.
At the strip, same tyre and a low 10-12psi, but good hook. No problems although 60fts sucked, due to a too small converter.

With numarically high gear ratios (ie 4.11:1), it's obviously easier for the engine to break traction, but also bear in mind that the wheel's speed will be slower and therefore hook sooner at a slower vehicle speed.
If you had 3:1 for example, once you break traction, the wheel speed will be faster and hook will take longer.
Converters make a huge difference too.

There are even more variables as to how your suspension will work. It might like the additional torque and weight transfer from a 4.11 that plants the tyre better.
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  #26  
Old 19-06-2009, 12:34 AM
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i am looking at getting 1350 yoke on my 12 bolt moser.

Will i have to change my whole tailshaft or just the uni joint at the diff to fit a 1350 yoke?

if any one has any thoughts on this would be great?

Ben
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  #27  
Old 19-06-2009, 05:13 AM
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I'd assume that only (maybe) a uni change could be required. It depends on what you have now.. You may need a different end fitted to your tail shaft also.
I'd contact Moser and ask them..

http://www.moserengineering.com/Page...-pinyokes.html

US$30 extra will get you the aluminium 1350.

Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 19-06-2009 at 05:15 AM..
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  #28  
Old 20-06-2009, 12:39 AM
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67TT502 67TT502 is offline
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i have turbo 400 to a 10 bolt diff tail shaft, so i am assuming a 1310 series uni joint on the diff side. I was hoping to just the uni joint to fit.
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  #29  
Old 28-06-2009, 11:25 AM
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moser 12 bolt

The more and more i look at them i want one, so i think i will have to invest. i think i will go with the true trac set up. is there anything else i need to know about the set up or ordering of the moser 12 bolt?
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  #30  
Old 28-06-2009, 11:31 AM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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What gears do you want to be able to use?
That will detirmine whether you need a 3 or a 4 series TruTrac carrier.

Also, you really want to avoid C-clips if you intend on racing at a track in any serious way. Not just because ANDRA will ban you, but because breaking a C-clipped axle will result in th wheel leaving the car.

Here is a thread where I asked a few questions.. Got some helpful answers too.
http://www.bangshift.com/forum/index.php?topic=12847.0
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