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  #2866  
Old 21-07-2017, 08:45 PM
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I only asked because I have a better cam to loan you than I'm running......tool
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An unbreakable toy, is useful for breaking other toys.


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  #2867  
Old 21-07-2017, 08:52 PM
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I'm all good re the cam now thank you Jim.. What have you got, out of interest?
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  #2868  
Old 21-07-2017, 08:57 PM
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  #2869  
Old 21-07-2017, 09:07 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Thanks.
The grind was a Crane 138801
294°/304° (@.020" Adv)
262°/272°@.050"
.420"/.420" lobe
106°LSA (was actual 107°)

and now is..

335°/343° (@.0?" Adv)
268°/273° @.050"
.393"/.399" lobe
107° LSA

So pretty much the same but a little more intake duration and ~.035" less lift (at the valve).
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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 25-07-2017 at 06:14 PM..
  #2870  
Old 24-07-2017, 10:48 AM
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How much more can you take?
  #2871  
Old 24-07-2017, 11:11 AM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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The block is at the machine shop now.
They will perform a crack test to make sure that that is the only crack and then sleeve #8 with a "B" sleeve -which I think is a ~.094" wall.
A "C" sleeve is a nice & thick .125" wall, but that removes too much of the original cylinder.
The plan then is to bring it home and do a "short" grout fill (up to the lower edge of the welch plugs) for better support, return to the shop for honing, then back home for reassembly.
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  #2872  
Old 24-07-2017, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackoutSteve View Post
The block is at the machine shop now.
They will perform a crack test to make sure that that is the only crack and then sleeve #8 with a "B" sleeve -which I think is a ~.094" wall.
A "C" sleeve is a nice & thick .125" wall, but that removes too much of the original cylinder.
The plan then is to bring it home and do a "short" grout fill (up to the lower edge of the welch plugs) for better support, return to the shop for honing, then back home for reassembly.
I admire your perseverance. I'm on the edge with mine as it is!!
  #2873  
Old 24-07-2017, 07:27 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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It's sink or swim Steve.
Hindsight for me is nothing but an arsehole, but in this particular case the leaking rear main seal was a good thing. It prevented me heading to the track and allowed me to find a couple of things.
The crack however.. Well thank you god!
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  #2874  
Old 02-08-2017, 10:29 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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I was going to accurately repair two intake threads that were a bit iffy, and thought I'd just Recoil the lot on both heads.
I should have bought a bigger mill. That's at full height.
Just one bloody inch Damn it!
Drill press.


Cranky's linished my crank for free then found the front gear wasn't quite sitting true thanks to the lousy machined radius on the GM crank. the fix is to grind the radius and also ensure that the abutment for the gear is true.
Those marks are from the gear moving on the snout.


Here you can see the gear has been marred slightly too.


levelling the block and preparing to grout the water jacket. The main caps are torqued and the head will also be torqued in place once poured. That is to pull the cylinder into shape while the grout sets.


Basic stuff..


Poured up to the lower edge of the welch plugs. This should not effect running temps based on hearsay! Although, this most likely will result in a slightly warmer oil temp due to the lack of lower block water cooling.


Doing this with some vacuum hose will allow me to continue to use the drain plug. The hose is removed after curing.


Just a couple of pics showing my lovely bronze lifter bushings..


Nice view.


The sleeve was fitted before grouting and here I'm about to re-die-grind the valve notches. Now that the grout has cured, the block can go back for final honing, but still a 2 week wait on new rings.




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  #2875  
Old 03-08-2017, 06:59 AM
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chevguy chevguy is offline
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I've seen more of the inside of your block than the outside of mine Your a man of wicked patience Steve.
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  #2876  
Old 03-08-2017, 07:26 PM
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I'm calling it the 'million dollar engine!'
  #2877  
Old 04-08-2017, 02:26 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff 4 View Post
I'm calling it the 'million dollar engine!'
https://youtu.be/sMkT-0i6e9I

---------- Post added at 02:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:40 PM ----------

The shoulder on the crank for the timing gear was said to have never been final machined. It took removing .008" to have it run true!
The good news is that that removed enough material to clean up the marks from the gear and allowed a nice .125" radius.



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  #2878  
Old 04-08-2017, 07:18 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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I was able to just gain enough room on the mill to recoil the threads.
I bought this used angle plate to set the head up as the intake holes are tapped in at 15° to the deck.


After traversing with a dial indicator to ensure I have the head level and square on the mill, I used an edge finder to locate the center of the thread.
I still didn't rely on the set up, I checked every thread center individually.


3/8-16 threads require a 29/64" tapping drill, so a 3/8" end mill being .015" less is close enough to cut out the old threads.


Using the mill to align the tap nice and square, I hand tap the repair thread.


New thread inserts that are stronger than the originals, as is the beauty of recoiling. A stronger thread material that "bites" into a larger surface area.
Being stainless steel inserts, make sure you never use stainless steel fasteners. Even with a quality anti-seize, stainless galls on itself badly. Same with aluminium. Never use alum plugs in an alum manifold. Bad news.
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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 04-08-2017 at 07:21 PM..
  #2879  
Old 05-08-2017, 10:40 AM
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I think you will need some anti-seize on the header bolts since the inserts are stainless steel
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  #2880  
Old 05-08-2017, 11:58 AM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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The exhausts on these heads do not have inserts.
They are bare alum threads.

Anyway, a steel bolt on a stainless thread is not an issue. Just don't marry stainless.
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