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  #1  
Old 01-10-2017, 05:04 PM
GDBST1 GDBST1 is offline
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Distributor oxidation

Hey guys,

Guessing this is a fairly common issue. Looks like I've got some oxidation on one of my points. Any tips on how to clean it? Is it possible to clean the lead as well? Or is it easier just to replace it?

Cheers

Rob
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  #2  
Old 01-10-2017, 05:24 PM
Intruder Intruder is offline
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You can use a points file or wet and dry sandpaper to clean up the points but you would be better off just buying a new set and make sure if there is a vent in the cap or distributor it isn't blocked.
When you do get new points make sure you clean the contact faces with wax remover or petrol to remove the protective coating.
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Old 01-10-2017, 06:57 PM
Geoff 4 Geoff 4 is offline
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When you say 'on one of my points', do you mean one point has a build up, the other has a recess? If so, it means [1] the condenser is failing [2] condenser is the wrong value in microfarads or [3] the coil is wrong for the condenser.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:10 PM
GDBST1 GDBST1 is offline
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Sorry might be a bit miss leading. Not sure what you call it. The part on the distributor when the lead plugs into.
Only one has the oxidation. The rest look clean.
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  #5  
Old 01-10-2017, 07:45 PM
Intruder Intruder is offline
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Oh the distributor cap? If so get some sandpaper wrapped around a screwdriver/stick and clean the inside of that post also clean the lead that runs into it and then a light smear of vaseline will prevent further oxidation.
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:02 PM
GDBST1 GDBST1 is offline
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Good idea with the screwdriver. Do you use the Vaseline on the inside of the lead also??
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  #7  
Old 02-10-2017, 05:13 PM
Intruder Intruder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GDBST1 View Post
Good idea with the screwdriver. Do you use the Vaseline on the inside of the lead also??
Sorry for the late reply, it won't hurt to do the inside of the connector.
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Old 02-10-2017, 07:36 PM
Geoff 4 Geoff 4 is offline
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If the inserts are alum, & they are the ones that usually corrode, I would try & find a cap with brass or s/steel inserts.
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  #9  
Old 24-10-2017, 06:16 PM
GDBST1 GDBST1 is offline
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Yep they're the brass ones already.

Gave it a light sand and clean and running heaps better. Checked the leads and they all seem well within their threshold. It's still got a slight miss fire under light throttle. Running at probably 95%.

Is it worth getting one of those MSD digital ignition controllers? Reckon they're worth the $400 or so? Whats the noticable improvements?

Thanks for your help
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Old 24-10-2017, 07:08 PM
Geoff 4 Geoff 4 is offline
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Unless the engine is producing large amounts of HP, the only thing 'noticeable' going to an MSD [ or similar ] digital controller would be a lighter wallet...

Electronic ign in the form of HEI is well worth the expense. Roadstar in Sydney, Ph 02 9477 7666, sells them for most of the popular V8s & some 6 cyl cars, prices $60-90.


I have used quite a few, zero problems.
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  #11  
Old 25-10-2017, 05:46 AM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Originally Posted by GDBST1 View Post
Is it worth getting one of those MSD digital ignition controllers? Reckon they're worth the $400 or so? What's the noticeable improvements?
Only worth spending the money if you buy a programmable controller. This way you can have all your rpm and load related ignition advance done so much more accurately than by using mechanical springs & weights or vacuum advance cans.
I have done this with a 6AL2 and a radical 260@.050" SR cam.
With low (choppy 10-15in/Hg) manifold vacuum at idle, I still have a rock-solid 50 BTDC at idle and cruise and bang-on 32 at WOT. This was impossible to do mechanically.
I even have a start retard so I'm not cranking at 50.

Yes, unless your engine does nothing but idle or WOT, you need vacuum advance.
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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 25-10-2017 at 05:50 AM..
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Old 25-10-2017, 06:55 AM
GDBST1 GDBST1 is offline
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All good advice, doesn't sound worth it
Already using an Hei MSD distributor and only around 440hp with a cam 236/242 @ 50.

Need to work out what the miss fire is though.
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Old 25-10-2017, 08:14 AM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Your cam should work with a mechanical vac advance can.
It will improve driveability in a huge way.
Run cooler. More responsive. Stronger idle. Better fuel economy.
HEI is good.
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Old 31-10-2017, 10:20 AM
GDBST1 GDBST1 is offline
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i tried the VAC advance when i first put in the motor and it just sounded like it was pinging, couldnt get rid of it. Ended up taking it off and ran much better....

Spoke to Michael down at ICE and swapped over the leads, heaps better product than what i had. 500ohms per foot for the MSD down to 35ohms per foot for the ICE. Swapped them over and found another MSD lead with twice the resistance.

Took the car for a spin last night and ran much much better. Michael did recommend replacing the MSD HEI system with this:

https://www.iceignition.com/product/...ition-control/

Saying its pretty much like night and day. Anyone done a similar swap? notice much difference/improvements?
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Old 31-10-2017, 07:10 PM
Geoff 4 Geoff 4 is offline
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Lots of misinformation there.

Low resistance plug leads do not mean the engine makes more HP. A test that I have seen where about 10 different brands of leads were tested, showed the highest HP reading came from leads that did NOT have the lowest resistance [ ohms per foot ]. Two other electrical factors are in play with helical/spiral plug leads: inductance & capacitance, & they never get mentioned.

Vac adv caused pinging. How much vac adv? How was the rate of vac adv controlled? Was it ported or manifold sourced? Vac adv needs to be 'tuned', just like the carb. As an example, if a lot of initial timing is used [ common with perf engines ], then the VA needs to be cut back. But folks hook up a 30* VA unit without restricting it, get pinging.......& blame vac adv!
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