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  #31  
Old 13-12-2016, 08:03 PM
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zappa zappa is offline
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The next step was to hit all of the interior panels with a solid coating of Nilrust or POR15 so I decided to remove the dashpad, door trims/rear trim/sail panels, otherwise they would get damaged and strapped all of the wiring up under the dash so it wouldn't get coated.

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After talking to a number of people I decided to go with the Nilrust Bottomside NB coating instead of POR15 (what I normally use), Nilrust is a a dual purpose coating that prevents moisture and includes Anti-corrosion properties, its normally applied to the underside of vehicles. http://nilrust.com.au

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The specialist at C.A.R recommended the Bottomside NB for a few reasons:
  1. Its a single step process v.s. POR15 which is a 2-Step
  2. The end finish is dry v.s. the Nilrust topside which has a tacky finish (mainly used for cavities etc)
  3. The finish is a flexible, self-healing coating (e.g its not rock hard like POR15) so a light scratch will actually reform or in the case of a large scratch it only exposes that section.
  4. It has Anti-corrosion properties that actually stop further oxidation of any minor rust already present (e.g; if I missed any during the prep process). POR15 also works well by creating a solid film type barrier to keep moisture out however it can actually have the opposite effect if rust is still present as it locks it in, and its resistance to large scratches/chips is largely dependant on the surface prep as it breaks the "barrier".

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You need to use a Shultz gun to apply this stuff and it makes a serious mess so it was time to turn the car into a car-coon ...."Insert butterfly transformation analogy here!"

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Yes the sun visors were bagged after this photo as well

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Time to get into the sperm suit and crank up the compressor
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  #32  
Old 13-12-2016, 08:31 PM
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zappa zappa is offline
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....and the Result!

I have to say I am very happy with this product, it was easy to work with and it applies a nice thick coat, I also found it was much easier to get it right into the seams and small areas (especially in the boot) v.s. other products I have used, there was basically no where left un-coated!...Results are below:

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Following this all the internal cavities copped a good coating of a low oder Lanolin/Fish Oil compound that I have used for years.

While I let these sit and dry for 7-days, I got to work on the Fuel tank (Next Chapter )!
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  #33  
Old 13-12-2016, 10:34 PM
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Frenchy666 Frenchy666 is offline
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Wow, that finish is really good for being an underbody type sealer.... Looking good mate

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  #34  
Old 14-12-2016, 09:00 AM
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Stealth 69 Stealth 69 is offline
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Nice work Luke - coming along well
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  #35  
Old 14-12-2016, 11:07 AM
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Hey Zappa - how much does that Nilrust cost, and whats the coverage like per bottle (did you use both bottles or have was there heaps left)?

Also - excuse the ignorance. WTF is a Shutz gun ??? I have normal compressor paint spray guns - I'm assuming that these wont work.

Last edited by sparky; 14-12-2016 at 04:52 PM.. Reason: one more question
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  #36  
Old 15-12-2016, 12:46 AM
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zappa zappa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparky View Post
Hey Zappa - how much does that Nilrust cost, and whats the coverage like per bottle (did you use both bottles or have was there heaps left)?

Also - excuse the ignorance. WTF is a Shutz gun ??? I have normal compressor paint spray guns - I'm assuming that these wont work.
Managed to find the receipt and didn't realise how well priced it was! Looks like it cost me $21.41 per tin (1L) so $42.82 +GST for 2L. I used all of the 2L but the coverage was quite good, there was basically no spot left uncoated and I did several coats on some areas just to use it all up.

Yep a normal spray gun won't work, the Shultz gun is the thing attached to the top of the tin in the photo above and just attaches to a normal compressor....dont worry, I had no idea what one was either I think Nilrust also sell them..
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  #37  
Old 15-12-2016, 02:10 AM
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While everything was drying I decided to give the tank a good going over....it was a top end Ricks Stainless tank (baffled) with built-in HP pump but wasn't well looked after and the most concerning part was the weld marks on the top which indicated the cage was welded in with the tank in place

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The vent was just a piece of rubber hose with no rollover or filter and the wiring under the car was very average (and hard wired) so I removed the lot!
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While I was at it I pulled out the pump for a quick look over
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Most concerning was the hole in the fuel filter that was surrounded by metal shavings, not sure what caused it but it need fixing.....I was lucky enough to find a replacement filter at the local holden dealer for $6.50!!
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Cleaning and polishing process
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Just like new!
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New Aeroflow custom braided hose with built-in rollover valve and brass micron vent filter, and fully re-wired with weatherproof connector
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Job Done!
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  #38  
Old 15-12-2016, 08:58 AM
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Stealth 69 Stealth 69 is offline
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What rollover valve did you use? I'm looking at options when I refit my tank .. the II Much looks good, but I think the price is II Much also - although, I would pay my weight in pesos to get rid of my fuel smell
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  #39  
Old 15-12-2016, 02:57 PM
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zappa zappa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealth 69 View Post
What rollover valve did you use? I'm looking at options when I refit my tank .. the II Much looks good, but I think the price is II Much also - although, I would pay my weight in pesos to get rid of my fuel smell
Its just a modified Speedflow Fuel Non-Return/Check Valve with the spring removed so its basically open full time but closes as soon as it rotates, I also looked at the IIMuch unit but by the time I added the filters + all the additional bits it was a big $$ buy that couldn't be justified for mainly street use

I still have a pretty strong fuel smell but I think thats potentially coming from the fuel lines plus the cars running very rich at the moment so could be a combination of both....I am fitting a new Throttle body and Computer soon which should take care of the tune and I am going to take a closer look at the current fuel hose as I am not certain it is PTFE, if not I will look into some new lines at some point as well

Last edited by zappa; 15-12-2016 at 03:02 PM.. Reason: updated supplier type
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  #40  
Old 15-12-2016, 04:54 PM
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sar4890 sar4890 is offline
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A Shultz gun was the name given the nozzle I think back in the day when an under body sealer called bodyshultz was used almost for every under body application
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  #41  
Old 15-12-2016, 07:31 PM
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Tank came up great mate, what products / process did you use?
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  #42  
Old 19-12-2016, 03:01 AM
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zappa zappa is offline
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Tank came up great mate, what products / process did you use?
I have been playing around with a bunch of different methods over the last few years with mixed results! In this case I just cleaned it with an organic degreaser...(yes it sounds all hippy but is the best stuff I have bought for cleaning and has no chemicals....weird!), once all the grease is off I just give it a good going over with a combo of fine Steelwool and Autosol Metal Polish. Once thats done I just hit it with some stainless steel surface cleaner which has a sealer in it, give it a good buff by hand and thats it..

It was all done by hand, no machine polishing needed! I just wanted a bright satin type finish for the tank but if you wanted a mirror finish there are a few more stages on top of that but its easily achievable

One of the best products I have come across to date are the California Custom products....Highly Recommended!
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  #43  
Old 19-12-2016, 03:15 AM
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Goodies!

Got to love when these boxes arrive! 3 nice deliveries!

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Just one of the things inside was the new Dynamat, I know a lot of people think its over priced but having used a lot of other cheap alternatives I find the two big differences are in the strength of the outer film and how good the sticky bit is on the underside, but there are no doubt other alternatives that will still do the job!

For this job I'm using the Dyna Extreme and Dyna SuperLite followed by the medium DynaLiner...

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  #44  
Old 22-12-2016, 08:14 PM
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zappa zappa is offline
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Dyna!

Down goes the next layer, Dynamat Extreme on the floors....IMO the difference between a good job and average job is how well its applied... and I have found the best tools for this job are:

1 x Small Dynamat Roller (small)
1 x Foam grout float
1 x Foam stress ball (seriously its in the photo )
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Floors done....this took F'N ages to do and my hands were well busted at the end of it
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Took the Dyna as far up the Firewall as possible and all joins were then taped
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Dynamat Superlite applied to the inside of all the panels inc the doors ....the old Fatmat was applied to the face of the door right under the door trims and had started dripping black crap out the bottom of the door trim (and they wonder why the trims didn't fit properly) :roll eyes: so got rid of all that junk and started again...Sorry I only have one sh!tty iPhone photos this as I wiped my phone around this time and lost a heap of photos

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Last edited by zappa; 22-12-2016 at 08:29 PM..
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  #45  
Old 22-12-2016, 08:36 PM
Jaba Jaba is offline
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Looking good mate, what is the advantage of using the Extreme and then superlite?

Or is the superlite for other areas?
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