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  #31  
Old 27-01-2016, 02:32 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Originally Posted by Joverell View Post
I went with a 6 cylinder bumblebee stripe in semigloss black, just to confuse everyone. Plus I just reckon it looks cleaner. I'm keeping the car de-badged until I get bored one day in the future.

Looking good. Pity about the scrape and i know how it feels to scratch a car with new paint the day it comes home..

As for the D91 "Bumble Bee" stripe. I don't think anyone would ever pick an unbroken stripe and think 6 cyl.
I assume you're not fitting an engine-size emblem there..
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  #32  
Old 04-02-2016, 05:44 PM
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very nice ....nice job
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  #33  
Old 04-02-2016, 09:31 PM
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Beautiful. Love the colour! Much prefer the unbroken strip, looks more finished.
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  #34  
Old 03-10-2016, 01:17 PM
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Been a while since I posted any updates, So thought I'd chuck up a bunch of pics. It's been around a year since I got the car back from the panel shop and the process has been pretty slow going. Having toddlers and being self employed doesn't give me a-lot of spare time, but we're moving.

First up, Fix all the mistakes. I resprayed the interior again. Wasnt exactly happy with what was done by the panel shop. It took a while to post these as I didnt really wanna look at it again. Inset pics show my problem..







Then add the Dynamat. In hindsight, I would have done the whole thing with Underdog as it isnt plastered with a logo and is a third of the price., But it's done now and looks good. Not sure how you keep the moisture out from between the Butane and the panels though, but it's done now..



---------- Post added at 12:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 PM ----------

Striped the front Panels off For closer inspection and so it's easier to work on.. I decided to respray the firewall, Subframe as there was overspray and rust proof it as best I could. Just making sure I'm happy and it's as spot on as I can do it. Also seam sealed in all the factory locations. An electronic rust converter will go on as well...




Solid Body mounts are all in..







---------- Post added at 12:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackoutSteve View Post
Looking good.

As for the D91 "Bumble Bee" stripe. I don't think anyone would ever pick an unbroken stripe and think 6 cyl.
I assume you're not fitting an engine-size emblem there..
Heh, no.

I originally bought it as an 'Original Big Block car', but I'm not that phased with period correct look on everything. The fact that the whole drive train changes allows me to make subtle tasteful differences to the exterior in my mind. I guess I'm particular with looks. If it was a COPO or YENKO, you wouldn't change a thing. I guess it's somewhere in the middle. I just reckon it's cleaner without it. I'm opting for the de-badged look, but might drill some holes later.. I'd doubt it though.

---------- Post added at 01:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:39 PM ----------

Bolted up the front end. Everything has gone without a hitch with this. I researched the crap outta everything before I started, plus it's all bolt in, so no brainer really. Double adjustable coil over with with 11.75" coilovers and 4 piston all round.



Meanwhile my wheels rocked up. They are Wheel Vintique 17 x 8" front and 17 x 9" rear Chev Rallye. This will be good for the Engineering process as I need to fit 265 max on the back for approval . I like the steel OE look, though I wouldn't mind getting a Trans Am type wheel after the car is on the road.





Clearance check, all good.







---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:08 PM ----------

I ended up buying a decent brake flaring tool and doing the lines myself with steel lines. I was gonna go stainless, but realised seating may be a problem. Steel with a bit of clear coat looks good anyways. Attached the Torque Arm to the Third member, put the centre and axles in, install brakes, bob's ya uncle.

I mounted some brakes line retaining brackets to the diff housing, keeping in mind to leave a gap for the exhaust. It does mean I had to loop the flex line, but hoping that isn't a problem.. After all they are 'flex' lines. The wilwood documentation says to use flex lines on the rear's but I dont see what you can't just run the hard lines.





Wheels fit over the brakes easy.



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  #35  
Old 03-10-2016, 01:42 PM
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Made a mistake. Th discs are 12.19". Not 11.75"

Install was pretty straight forward, even with one person. Just made sure I lubed everything before I put it in. Saves crawling around and putting a neck out later.





I can't stop looking at this bit..





There seems to be plenty of front space clearance on these rims... Can't wait to get it on the ground.



The only thing that concerns me is the torque arm to pinion mount bracket bolts. They are almost the closest thing to the ground. There is probably a difference of one inch between the bottom of the rim to the head of the bolt once I remove the washers. I wonder why they didn't make the bracket shallower and recess the bolts in the torque arm. If you had the unfortunate event of hitting a rock or something hard and shear off the bolts, that's be pretty ugly. Once I get it on the ground i will measure the distance to the ground and look at possibly altering it so the bolts are recessed. Basically means cutting and welding the bottom plate of the torque arm. We'll cross that bridge when we get too it.



Anyway, happy days. Next up, finish brake system.

Last edited by Juzz; 03-10-2016 at 03:50 PM..
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  #36  
Old 03-10-2016, 03:52 PM
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Lookin good mate! Just curious on the 1st pic in your last post, what locates your wheels? Looks like just the studs hold it on. Not sure if it's a problem or not but I had to get mine changed so the flange suited the hub of the wheel
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  #37  
Old 03-10-2016, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit View Post
Lookin good mate! Just curious on the 1st pic in your last post, what locates your wheels? Looks like just the studs hold it on. Not sure if it's a problem or not but I had to get mine changed so the flange suited the hub of the wheel
Is that front or back wheel? It's just the nuts that locate the wheel, but I will check that the wheel sits flush. For query sake, what did you change?
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  #38  
Old 03-10-2016, 04:58 PM
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On the back wheel mate, where it says currie in the centre. How that sits flush with the rotor I had to get mine changed to have roughly a 1" lip so the studs aren't taking all the force of the wheel. Mine are 11's with a bit of a dish which would make it worse I guess.

Just made me curious & something to think about
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  #39  
Old 03-10-2016, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit View Post
On the back wheel mate, where it says currie in the centre. How that sits flush with the rotor I had to get mine changed to have roughly a 1" lip so the studs aren't taking all the force of the wheel. Mine are 11's with a bit of a dish which would make it worse I guess.

Just made me curious & something to think about
ok, I had a look and I see where you are coming from. The inside edge of the wheel face just on the outside edge of the hub.There is probably about 3mm or more seating surface around the whole wheel (I marked it in red). It may be an issue. I may need a spacer or something to put over with a wider surface area.

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  #40  
Old 03-10-2016, 07:42 PM
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Juzz Juzz is offline
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Originally Posted by Gambit View Post
On the back wheel mate, where it says currie in the centre. How that sits flush with the rotor I had to get mine changed to have roughly a 1" lip so the studs aren't taking all the force of the wheel. Mine are 11's with a bit of a dish which would make it worse I guess.

Just made me curious & something to think about
I replied before I saw this. The rears seem fine. The disk hat sits clean on the axle hub. The callipers are centred on the disk. It's more the lack of flat area on the fronts, but I may be overthinking it.
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  #41  
Old 03-10-2016, 08:33 PM
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These are probably the best pics I have of mine since it's been done. I'm guessing it's overkill but it's all done now..
I only noticed it since it was the same as how mine was & my mate going over mine wasn't happy with it & the engineer agreed so I had it changed.





Not trying to take your thread off track. Car looks smick & underneath is coming along great. Bet you can't wait to drive it again
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  #42  
Old 03-10-2016, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Gambit View Post
These are probably the best pics I have of mine since it's been done. I'm guessing it's overkill but it's all done now..
I only noticed it since it was the same as how mine was & my mate going over mine wasn't happy with it & the engineer agreed so I had it changed.





Not trying to take your thread off track. Car looks smick & underneath is coming along great. Bet you can't wait to drive it again
RIGHT! Now I got you! We'll see what they say I guess. Interesting point though. The fronts don't sit like a rear axle that and they probably take more lateral force.

You ain't taking it off thread, trust me, I need all the help I can get.
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  #43  
Old 03-10-2016, 09:07 PM
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No probs. Kinda hard to work out what I meant with my description I guess lol. The bloke who did my diff wanted a wheel to make the boss to suit it.
Made sense once he showed me with a wheel off.
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  #44  
Old 04-10-2016, 03:03 PM
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Stealth 69 Stealth 69 is offline
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I went with a 6 cylinder bumblebee stripe in semigloss black, just to confuse everyone. Plus I just reckon it looks cleaner. I'm keeping the car de-badged until I get bored one day in the future.


I'm a big fan of the bumblebee stripe - mine had it when I first bought it and initially had plans to retain it - until the crazy rebuild monster inside my head took over the build - looks like you may have met him too Justin - loving the build pics - keep em up
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  #45  
Old 04-10-2016, 06:13 PM
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I'm a big fan of the bumblebee stripe - mine had it when I first bought it and initially had plans to retain it - until the crazy rebuild monster inside my head took over the build - looks like you may have met him too Justin - loving the build pics - keep em up
You have a very beautiful car very hi class. You should be very proud
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