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  #1  
Old 01-07-2010, 07:34 PM
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Trans cooler

I've decided I should add a trans cooler to the 68.

What's the go with the cooling circuit?
Is there any benefit running through the radiator and the trans cooler, or should I bypass the radiator and just run fluid through the cooler?
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  #2  
Old 01-07-2010, 08:08 PM
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i run through the radiator first and then the cooler , as far as i've been told and it sounds the better way to me . two is better then one . the cooler the trany the longer it will live . all the heat comes from the torch converter the bigger the stall the more heat you make and the pump chucks in abit more heat in aswell
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Old 01-07-2010, 08:22 PM
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Water to oil heat exchangers are capable of exchanging heaps more heat than oil-air coolers of the same size. So as Oxliver has said, it make perfect sense to route the trans fluid through the radiator's heat exchanger first to remove the bulk of the heat, then through the air-oil cooler so it has a better chance of lowering the temp to a more desirable level.
You can't really over cool a trans.. meaning, I doubt you'll get it any lower than about 160F anyway.
Are you installing a trans gauge?
I'm not because I don't want to try and fit a 5th gauge, but I am installing 2 warning lamps to come on progressively as the trans temp rises. First is an amber pilot lamp warning me that 205F has been reached, the next is a red warning at 221F where I either shut off or park in neutral for a while.

If you don't install a gauge, I strongly suggest buying an infra-red temp gun that you can carry with you to get some idea on what's going on. You may be surprised.

About a 1/4 of the AU seller's price with more temp range.. US$40!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mastercool-Infra...item1e5ac125e9
I got this one.. Up to 1400F.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Infra...motiveQ5fTools
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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 05-07-2010 at 10:02 PM..
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Old 01-07-2010, 08:59 PM
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rs/ss 396 rs/ss 396 is offline
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I agree with the surprize, a buddy of mine who does alot of drag racing using a manualized glide with a trans brake and a 5000 high stall converter, installed a trans temp gauge after a trans rebuild, he took it off after the first meeting, the temp went off the scale in the maybe 3-5 seconds the brake was on, he decided it was better not to know. I like the idea of the double pass but with a fan on the auxillary cooler, page 198 in the summit catalog.
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Old 02-07-2010, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oxliver View Post
i run through the radiator first and then the cooler , as far as i've been told and it sounds the better way to me . two is better then one . the cooler the trany the longer it will live . all the heat comes from the torch converter the bigger the stall the more heat you make and the pump chucks in abit more heat in aswell
Thanks for the info.
Sounds like I'll have to break out the tube benders and flaring kit to keep the radiator in the trans cooling circuit.

---------- Post added at 12:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:26 PM ----------

Steve, I've considered fitting a trans temp gauge but I also don't know where I would put it to enable a good view of the gauge

---------- Post added at 12:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:28 PM ----------

Toni, Was that a power steering cooler as well? I think I remember seeing it as I just go the new Summit catalog last night.
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Old 02-07-2010, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nev68 View Post
[/COLOR]Steve, I've considered fitting a trans temp gauge but I also don't know where I would put it to enable a good view of the gauge[COLOR="Silver"].
That why I just went with the lights.. I don't care for too many gauges even though I have seven all up!
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Old 03-07-2010, 06:32 PM
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I found this image for trans cooler plumbing.
Makes sense to me.
Does anyone disagree with this?
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Old 03-07-2010, 06:38 PM
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Yes I do..
That radiator in the animation is a down flow type and the rad's transmission heat exchanger in the illustration is clearly for a crossflow type..
It's just not possible!
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Old 05-07-2010, 09:35 PM
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Hi Nev, perma-cool do both a dual cooler trans, engine, power steer, diff, or fuel?
$175.95 us with the 900cfm fan. or a 6 pass trans or oil cooler with same fan $169.95
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs/ss 396 View Post
Hi Nev, perma-cool do both a dual cooler trans, engine, power steer, diff, or fuel?
$175.95 us with the 900cfm fan. or a 6 pass trans or oil cooler with same fan $169.95
Hi Toni, Thanks but I got a B&M stack type cooler ( http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Uni...TU-11x11x1-1-2 )and some black AN fittings.
Hopefully when I'm done it will blend in with the rest of the black behind the grille.
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:30 PM
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I always run lines straight to trans cooler, never through radiator, Bad idea, any failure in the radiator tank walls means water entry into your trans.
-doing it this way on cars I own has never caused me any issues as far as cooling, And yes buy the biggest you can fit the lower the temp the better.




Last edited by Benny; 12-07-2010 at 11:55 PM..
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  #12  
Old 09-07-2010, 04:11 PM
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Not a bad idea. Just a preference. The likelyhood of a leak in your radiator's heat exchanger is quite remote, especially with the condition of our stuff.

Which brand? Your photobucket link is incomplete..
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Old 12-07-2010, 11:39 PM
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LPD is the brand I recommend, Stay clear of DERALE brand bad news,
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  #14  
Old 07-08-2010, 04:06 PM
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Still stuffing around with the trans cooler as I've been a bit busy on the stuff that allows me to buy groceries etc.

Had a bit of time today so I'm out in the garage trying to finish this trans cooler off.
Of course, there seems to be something I have forgotten.....

Is there a fitting that will allow me to connect the -6 braided line to the old trans cooler fitting? (see photo)


If there isn't a fitting what's the best way to connect the braid to the steel trans cooler line going back to the transmission? ( I don't really want to run braid all the way)
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  #15  
Old 07-08-2010, 09:13 PM
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No, there is no fitting that I am aware of.

One way to do it though, would be to push the flare nut back and fit a rubber hose over the flare and hose clamp it.. You can use braided line (for looks only as there is no real need) but the braid may make it harder for the hose clamp to conform the hose properly.
At least this way, you can always return it to stock if need be.

The other way is to cut the flare off, remove the flare nut completely and then fit and tube & nut to adapt to AN fitting where a braided line can be used or an AN fitting with a hose barb for any type of hose you want..
The steel line will need a single flare once the tube & nut are in place.
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