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  #1  
Old 18-05-2016, 11:16 PM
GlenD GlenD is offline
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Name: Glen
12 bolt - strange axle packages

Hi all - recently destroyed the pinion gear in my 12 bolt having a go down the Kwinana Motorplex, now have the diff disassembled on my bench trying to decide what way to go.
Thought the centre in my diff was a posi (has spring pack in the centre) but upon disassembly its just an open centre (pic attached). Not quite sure what the go is there.

Now I'm looking at a new centre, as well as new axles (already have new Richmond gears and bearing kit).

Anyone have any experience using the Strange axle and spool kits? (I'm looking at the alloy axle, spool and c clip eliminator kit P3509G12S).

Any other recommendations? Needs to have good bang for buck, as I don't have a heavy wallet.

Grateful for anyone else's experiences/recommends from doing up their 12 bolt
Cheers
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  #2  
Old 19-05-2016, 07:59 AM
tex013's Avatar
tex013 tex013 is offline
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Location: Sydney,Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenD View Post
Hi all - recently destroyed the pinion gear in my 12 bolt having a go down the Kwinana Motorplex, now have the diff disassembled on my bench trying to decide what way to go.
Thought the centre in my diff was a posi (has spring pack in the centre) but upon disassembly its just an open centre (pic attached). Not quite sure what the go is there.

Now I'm looking at a new centre, as well as new axles (already have new Richmond gears and bearing kit).

Anyone have any experience using the Strange axle and spool kits? (I'm looking at the alloy axle, spool and c clip eliminator kit P3509G12S).

Any other recommendations? Needs to have good bang for buck, as I don't have a heavy wallet.

Grateful for anyone else's experiences/recommends from doing up their 12 bolt
Cheers
Glen , when Reece and I did his 12 bolt we used billet axles from Summit . Spool = well its cheap but that is your choice . I have heard that c clip eliminators can have some leak issues , may be better bang for your buck to have the housing ends changed to a ford type end . Eliminated c clips and provides for using readily available seal/bearings .And neater .
I have a complete Strange diff with a Detroit locker, very happy with that .

Tex
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  #3  
Old 19-05-2016, 08:03 AM
qik66 qik66 is offline
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The weak link in a 12 bolt is the carrier caps. they have a tendency to flex or break allowing the centre to move within the housing. you can buy billet caps to help prevent the problem. There is a little bit of work fitting them as they come with larger mounting bolts so you need to re tap the threads in the housing. I have a spare set of these if you are interested. the seconds thing would be to fit a girdled rear cover as these transfer the load better through the housing. Are you going to re-build the diff yourself or get someone to do it for you? if you are doing it yourself when you get the old pinion out take the old bearings off and take a die grinder or flapper wheel to the inside of the race so they slip off and on the pinion easily, you can then use these to make adjusting the pinion height shim pack easy. my advice would be to start with the same shims that came off the old pinion as usually the height is pretty close. same goes with the carrier bearing side load and back lash, if you put the same shims back in as came out you will be surprised how close it will be.
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Old 19-05-2016, 10:44 AM
GlenD GlenD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tex013 View Post
Glen , when Reece and I did his 12 bolt we used billet axles from Summit . Spool = well its cheap but that is your choice . I have heard that c clip eliminators can have some leak issues , may be better bang for your buck to have the housing ends changed to a ford type end . Eliminated c clips and provides for using readily available seal/bearings .And neater .
I have a complete Strange diff with a Detroit locker, very happy with that .

Tex
Thanks Tex, I had looked at the ford type end as a bit more hassle initially, but looking at it again it looks like it would make it easier for me to swap the drums to discs as well, rather than the c clip eliminators which seem to require a disc brake kit specifically for them. So prob more worth the bit of effort now while its all out anyway
Thanks for the advice

---------- Post added at 08:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:27 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by qik66 View Post
The weak link in a 12 bolt is the carrier caps. they have a tendency to flex or break allowing the centre to move within the housing. you can buy billet caps to help prevent the problem. There is a little bit of work fitting them as they come with larger mounting bolts so you need to re tap the threads in the housing. I have a spare set of these if you are interested. the seconds thing would be to fit a girdled rear cover as these transfer the load better through the housing. Are you going to re-build the diff yourself or get someone to do it for you? if you are doing it yourself when you get the old pinion out take the old bearings off and take a die grinder or flapper wheel to the inside of the race so they slip off and on the pinion easily, you can then use these to make adjusting the pinion height shim pack easy. my advice would be to start with the same shims that came off the old pinion as usually the height is pretty close. same goes with the carrier bearing side load and back lash, if you put the same shims back in as came out you will be surprised how close it will be.
I had looked into the billet caps, but from what I understood they required additional machining? for them to seat correctly to the housing leaving the right amount of clearance for the bearing? If not I would be quite interested in going some of them while at it.
I have got a Moser cover waiting to go on when this is finished, which has the adjustable bearing cap supports which should help.
I am going to rebuild this myself, thanks for the idea of using the old pinion bearing, I might be out of luck though as it was my pinion gear that got destroyed, and I have a feeling it damaged/distorted the bearing too.
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  #5  
Old 19-05-2016, 12:33 PM
qik66 qik66 is offline
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When you fit the caps, you have to measure the bore diameter and face off the mounting surface to get within spec. it is not a big job and I think well worth while. Might be worth getting original caps checked for cracks because they would have been put under a huge load when the diff let go!
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  #6  
Old 20-05-2016, 03:20 PM
Bfit Bfit is offline
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when you get the steel caps either toms or marks William's they come as stated above oversize.
you need to mount them an measure the bore and machine the caps to spec usually about 0.030". Not hard if you have access to a milling machine.
this is not for the novice .

if you can`t work to 0.0005 of a thou, get a machine shop to do it .

some people only fit the crown wheel side , I think its best to do both caps.

if only replacing the one cap its a good idea to check the cap the is being reused as it will most likely be a thou or two over the spec.
check as fix if required
I use 12 point caterpillar bolts
1/2" x 2 1/4" Pn 6j2515
7/16" x 2 1/4" Pn. 6K07607 these and a lot more reliable that socket head bolts.

Last edited by Bfit; 20-05-2016 at 03:22 PM..
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  #7  
Old 22-05-2016, 07:06 AM
SBC-68-FIREBIRD SBC-68-FIREBIRD is offline
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Name: Scotty
Hi Glen,
When I did the 12 bolt in my Firebird it was not broken but I was wanting to fit a set of billet axles. I looked into the c-clip eliminator kits & was advised against using them due to leak issues.

The diff was a POSI centre & already had a new set of Richmond gears in it when I bought it. My diff is standard width so I was able to get everything off the shelf from Moser.

I ended up with a set of billet axles & had a set of the Ford type ends welded on & fitted one of them alloy covers with the supports in them. Could still use my original drum brakes & have had no issues at all so far.

If I had my time again though I would run a tru-track type set up.
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  #8  
Old 23-05-2016, 02:51 PM
GlenD GlenD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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Name: Glen
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bfit View Post
when you get the steel caps either toms or marks William's they come as stated above oversize.
you need to mount them an measure the bore and machine the caps to spec usually about 0.030". Not hard if you have access to a milling machine.
this is not for the novice .

if you can`t work to 0.0005 of a thou, get a machine shop to do it .

some people only fit the crown wheel side , I think its best to do both caps.

if only replacing the one cap its a good idea to check the cap the is being reused as it will most likely be a thou or two over the spec.
check as fix if required
I use 12 point caterpillar bolts
1/2" x 2 1/4" Pn 6j2515
7/16" x 2 1/4" Pn. 6K07607 these and a lot more reliable that socket head bolts.
Thanks for the info - I wouldn't be attempting the machine work on new caps myself, will be finding a machine shop to do for me

---------- Post added at 12:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:32 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by SBC-68-FIREBIRD View Post
Hi Glen,
When I did the 12 bolt in my Firebird it was not broken but I was wanting to fit a set of billet axles. I looked into the c-clip eliminator kits & was advised against using them due to leak issues.

The diff was a POSI centre & already had a new set of Richmond gears in it when I bought it. My diff is standard width so I was able to get everything off the shelf from Moser.

I ended up with a set of billet axles & had a set of the Ford type ends welded on & fitted one of them alloy covers with the supports in them. Could still use my original drum brakes & have had no issues at all so far.

If I had my time again though I would run a tru-track type set up.
Can you remember roughly what you paid for the new housing ends to be welded on? Would be a handy guide for me when trying to find somewhere to do it locally to me
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  #9  
Old 24-05-2016, 07:16 PM
SBC-68-FIREBIRD SBC-68-FIREBIRD is offline
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Location: Sydney
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Name: Scotty
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenD View Post
Thanks for the info - I wouldn't be attempting the machine work on new caps myself, will be finding a machine shop to do for me

---------- Post added at 12:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:32 PM ----------



Can you remember roughly what you paid for the new housing ends to be welded on? Would be a handy guide for me when trying to find somewhere to do it locally to me
Sorry I don't remember. It was guy here in Sydney who built 9" diffs. I did all the research from Moser on the parts I needed, told the diff guy the numbers & he ordered it all in for me & it came in with his 9" stuff. It was a straightforward job.
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