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  #1516  
Old 09-02-2012, 07:41 PM
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67TT502 67TT502 is offline
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Originally Posted by blackoutsteve View Post

So, the gold color in the filter is from something in this picture (that is no longer there!)..
LOOKING LOOKING

it is like a "where is wally page"


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  #1517  
Old 09-02-2012, 07:44 PM
1956SedanDelivery 1956SedanDelivery is offline
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Ah the gold off the springs. Gotcha.

Last edited by 1956SedanDelivery; 09-02-2012 at 07:48 PM..
  #1518  
Old 10-02-2012, 03:35 AM
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Some of the white still is, but not one spec of the gold is still on those springs. ..and because it's completely gone, I completely forgot it was there when I checked under the valve covers and then checked the oil filter.
Maybe it's just me, but I think it's so f*cking stupid that that company, a maker of probably the best springs available, decide to not only use a paint that flakes off so easily, but to use a color that will obviously end up in a filter looking so convincingly like a something else.
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  #1519  
Old 10-02-2012, 05:00 AM
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Thats Gold jerry
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  #1520  
Old 13-02-2012, 11:57 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Swapping the rod bearings has taken a bit longer than expected.
Strangely, the thickness of the existing Clevite P Series standard(?) (0.000") bearing shells were measuring closer to the 0.063" mark than the specifed 0.062" in the catalog, -making for a full thou less clearance than what they were expected to. It was all accounted for during the original machining and assembly as clearances were all around ~0.0025", but it did make it confusing when 0.000" replacement H series were about a thou lose.
Then, to make things even more time consuming and confusing, the ACL Flexigage (aka Plastgage) was giving inconsistant and incorrect readings which was heading me in the 0.001" of additional clearance direction.

Here's a brief and some insight for anyone not that familiar with this stuff, but would like to know..
I'm no expert and I'm still learing too, but I've done it a few times now.

Flexigage is a wax strip that is pretty good for many clearance checking applications. Cut off the length required.


The length of the Flexigage wax strip is placed on the journal where the rod cap will be placed..


For connecting rods, it's important NOT to allow the rod cap to pull up the piston/rod as the bolts are tightened. That will give you a false reading, so I use a large screw driver to seat the upper bearing shell against the journal.


A feeler gauge can be placed between the rods or counterweight cheek to help prevent rod movement and sideways c0cking when torquing.


After the bolts have been torqued to spec, they are undone and the cap is removed to reveal the deformed Flexigage. Against the gauge on the packaging, the clearance here is indicated at ~0.002".


The problem with that however, is that the actual clearance was amost 0.005" after repeated tests. I can only assume that the rods were still c0cking against the Flexigage and giving false readings.

So to eliminate the Flexigage, the best way (always) is to always measure with micromters. Measure the installed bearings' diameter and subtract the measured journal's diameter.. The problem can be however, on a mostly assembled engine like mine, you can't always do that. Crank journals for example..
But at least the Flexigage is OK on crank journals, because the crank's weight in is the block and there is no sideways/twisting movement when torquing. That's where Flexigage works quite well as a good indicator.

Here I am mic-ing the fitted and torqued rod bearings with these inside telescoping gauges. You make a measurement, and then use an outside micrometer to measure the result.


These telescoping gauges are good, but they can be a little awkward in tight places. ..and I also wonder if the 2nd measurement with the mic is another room for an additional tolerance. The bearing diameter shows 2.201" (with the 0.001" "HXN" bearings)


Mic-ing the journal.. 2.196" and a 1/2 or 2.1965". Now you can see that 2.201" - 2.1965 = 0.0045" or (thanks to the Flexigage,) way too f*ucking much clearance! 0.001" per inch of diameter is what you need and it works on every engine from whipper-snippers to container ships.


This measurement shows a happy 0.0025" bearing clearance with the -0.001" bearings.


The bearing shells are another indication of what clearance you may have but certainly not the way to accurately determine it.
Here is one of the used P Series showing 0.0627". It's spec is 0.0620" (That's 0.3127" minus the 0.250" precision ball bearing needed to measure the inner radius of the shell.. My new Mitutoyo ball anvil mic hasn't arrived yet! ) It's that additional thickness (the 0.0007") with this particular shell, which is why the existing 0.000" bearings are giving results of the new 0.001" undersized. If I had have just done a straight swap of the P 0.000" for the H 0.000", I would have ended up with an excessive 0.004" clearance on several of the rods.


New HN Series 0.000" bearing = 0.062". Spec is 0.0619". Close enough. (The N in HN = "Narrow" bearing shells (by 0.050") for large filleted crankshafts. All H bearing are now N as standard.)


New HN1 -0.001" (undersize) bearing = 0.0624" and spec is 0.0624". (1/2 a thou per shell = 0.001". )


New HXN +0.001" (X = 1 thou extra clearance) showing about 0.0613" Spec is 0.0614".


..and for what it's worth, a new 0.010" under P Series bearing showing it's additional ~0.005" per shell at ~0.0667 (0.062 + 0.005" = 0.067) It's 3 tenths of a thou off, and why it's important fit and measure bearings first, and then grind the cranks to suit.


These new H rod bearings have uppers and lowers too. Not sure what the physical differences are, but the old Ps went upper and lower with all the same shell.


Got tired of using the telescoping T-handles and bought me this Mitutoyo 2-3" tubular inside micrometer today.. More accurate, more accessible, more better.




A little fiddly, but not as much as it looks. Measurements are much more repeatable, consistant and confident.


Now that the rod bearings are in and all the clearances are where they should be (0.0025-0.0030"), the rod bolts are torqued. I don't like to use a torque wrench when I can be more accurate and stretch them with a gauge. Preload is bang-on then.
These ARP rod bolts require 0.008" stretch which puts them at the correct torque regardless of any varying friction in the threads or under the nut, that would fudge the readings of any torque wrench. ARP moly lube is still used as a lubricant.


I use a 5/8" combination off-set ring spanner with the 11/16" end removed and slip over a ~7/8" steel tube with a mountain bike handlebar grip for leverage. (Have you ever attempted to go ~75ft/lbs with a 10" long spanner? It's hard. In fact it's 115lbs hard!. )
This dial indicator reads 0.0001" or in "ten-thousandths" of an inch. 0.010" or a 1/4 of a millimeter (0.254mm) is one entire revolution of the dial, making it's resolution simply awesome.


Starting loose at the 97 mark, I torque until the needle swings around 77, which is 0.0080" (8.0 thou) of bolt stretch.
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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 16-02-2012 at 08:15 PM.. Reason: typos
  #1521  
Old 14-02-2012, 07:21 AM
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Frank351 Frank351 is offline
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The Discovery Channel , with your host BlackoutSteve....

Great stuff !

Cheers,
Frank.
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  #1522  
Old 14-02-2012, 09:59 PM
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Great report Steve on the investigation, glad eveything has worked out for the better.
  #1523  
Old 15-02-2012, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by blackoutsteve View Post
(That's 0.3127" minus the 0.250" precision ball bearing needed to measure the inner radius of the shell.. My new Mitutoyo ball anvil mic hasn't arrived yet! )
Hmmm, more new Mitutoyo.. (Ball anvils instead of the usual flat anvils for curved items. )
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  #1524  
Old 16-02-2012, 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by blackoutsteve View Post
Hmmm, more new Mitutoyo.. (Ball anvils instead of the usual flat anvils for curved items. )
How much was it Steve?

Pm if you like I have been looking for one of these for a while for work and play.
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  #1525  
Old 16-02-2012, 08:39 AM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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About $130. The Mitutoyo are Japanese and are about the best. Starret are good too, but be aware of other cheaper brands.
Part number is 115-253. You'll be pushing to find one on the shelf. Colin at AA Industrial can get one for you. He got my tube mic same day.
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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 16-02-2012 at 08:41 AM..
  #1526  
Old 16-02-2012, 07:25 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Obviously a good opportunity to give the head studs a retorque. I noticed nearly all went another ~15.


Lash the cam to 0.014"-cold. This will open to 0.020"-hot with alum heads.


Valve covers, intake and pan on.. Nearly ready to plonk back in.
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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 17-02-2012 at 07:32 AM.. Reason: Heads were never off!
  #1527  
Old 17-02-2012, 04:21 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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The kink in my long water pump bypass hose has always annoyed me, and looking at pics of engines with OE pumps and manifolds, I'm thinking it must be an aftermarket intake and/or water pump issue.
I'd like to know why the hose fittings between the pump and intake (both Edelbrock Victors) are so mis-aligned. They appear to be pretty much in the same locations to the OEs, but every replacement piece of correctly ribbed 3/4" bypass hose always kinks.
Stock pump and manifold.. nice.


Am I the only one with this problem of the kinked bypass hose?
How is a 3/4" diameter hose expected to connect these two?




My local Bursons let me rummage through their stock of molded heater hoses and I found one for a Holden Astra, #CH1548 for only $8.


The only "problem" with the hose, is that it's a 5/8" id and the bypass is a 3/4". Not that a kinked 3/4" is going to out-flow a 5/8", it just means swapping the hose nipples for 5/8" ones. I bought these from GMH a while ago. Pretty sure HQ-Z and VC-K 6s and 8s used them. They are the same as the USGMs.


The "S" at the end is the bit that I want..


Bingo!


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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 17-02-2012 at 04:46 PM..
  #1528  
Old 17-02-2012, 07:11 PM
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RAW454 RAW454 is offline
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Nice find. No OEM hose clamps?
  #1529  
Old 17-02-2012, 07:50 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Of course there will be, but the pump isn't on permanantly yet..
Just swapped the ARP timing cover studs for OE bolts too.
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  #1530  
Old 17-02-2012, 07:56 PM
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Very neat!
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