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Old 20-11-2017, 10:48 AM
66FAIRLANE's Avatar
66FAIRLANE 66FAIRLANE is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 602
Name: Andy
Holley Sniper Install

OK, so a few details.

Engine is a +.040 390 with slightly touched Edelbrock heads, RPM manifold, balanced etc etc. Cam is a Cam Research 590/590, 240/245@.050 on 110 LSA. Built about 20 years ago. Makes about 7" at idle. Have run various 750's & 800's over the years with the current being a 750HP DP. I had a 1/2" pick up in the tank already with a return line, bypass regulator and Holley blue pump.

An inline pump was never going to cut it as you still have the issue of uncovering the pick up. Not wanting to go to the trouble of an in tank pump I decided on a separate surge tank with built in pump. The Fitech Command centre is stupid & problematic and they most likely came out with this new one because of it.
RobbMc also makes a decent one but this just looked a bit sexier. Doing it this way allowed me to keep the entire fuel system intact from engine bay back. Less hassle & once I dump the noisy Holley blue I will install a quieter pump with lower pressure. That way I can keep a carb in the boot (trunk) and throw it on in an emergency.....maybe.

I was very disappointed when I received my Sniper unit from Jegs that it appeared to have been opened & several critical items were missing. Holley rectified this but it put back my install by a week & a half.

The Fitech surge tank can mount from the bottom or side. I chose to put it where my regulator was as that is where my two fuel lines come out also. I was concerned about noise mounting it on that flat panel so I cut two small bits of thin rubber to go between. Anyway the pump is very very quite when priming and there is no chance of hearing it with the engine running.

As you can see by the pics a stud pulled out of the manifold so that needed coiling. The coolant sensor is 3/8 npt so I put it where I had the gauge and moved the gauge up with a reducer. There are 3 fuel inlet choices on the sniper but I used the one at the rear because it is the lowest & I have a drop base air filter. There is but one outlet. It is recommended to keep high tension wires & coil away from the unit as much as possible to minimise interference so I made a temporary bracket for my coil to get it further away. I use resistor plugs for this reason also. I use a Crane XR3000 optical trigger in an old Mallory YL. This ran the standard Ford tach fine off the coil so I was hopeful it would be fine for the Sniper. It was.

So, hook up Sniper positive & negative straight to the battery, yellow wire to the coil neg, pink wire to switched 12v and plug in the coolant sensor. The main harness has a built in relay to control the fuel pump. This is a real time saver, so connected this up too.

The little red button next to the surge tank was something I put in ages ago to operate the carb pump when ignition on (or acc) so this was used to prime up the surge tank & check for leaks.

Turned on the unit & entered the parameters in the wizard on the HHC. Car fired up first turn. It would only just run by itself and was better with some throttle. The IAC is not set properly at this stage. Once it warmed up the unit went into learn and it idled around the mark set (900rpm). It was obvious free revving it in neutral that it was snappier. Took it around the block twice & definitely better throttle response.

It got late, dark & I was buggered. Glass of red was had & I was happy...so far. Still have lots of tidying up to do. I have put about 50 miles on it since then & it is great to drive. There are still cold & hot start issues but I will get to them. Seems to work pretty good for an engine with only 7". Yesterday I made a pcv valve with a fixed orifice to help with IAC tuning as I don't believe having two controlled variable vacuum leaks is a good thing. So I am taking the variability out of one.

Last edited by 66FAIRLANE; 20-11-2017 at 10:51 AM..
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