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  #16  
Old 17-05-2013, 07:38 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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I did a wedding once and ruptured an oil pressure line (just to the gauge) right as I was dropping off the groom at the church..
When I saw the loss of oil pressure the sight of an external leak under the car was bliss in contrast of what major problems I was fearing..

Me and the other chaffuer raced to some country auto parts store (in his Firebird) to find an NPT/BSP plug/sender/whatever to delete the gauge, then got back back to the church and fitted it right in time to take the newlyweds to the reception.. Phew..
Amazingly, I didn't get covered in grime and they didn't suspect a thing..

Bummer, but good that it's happened now Russ.
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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 17-05-2013 at 08:04 PM..
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  #17  
Old 17-05-2013, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Russ View Post
Thanks for the offer Scott, but I've got no room to do it myself so I'll have it towed back to the shop.

Allan - Yeah they did just do some work, but there was no tinkering. All the did was replace the sump, oil filter, valve covers, and changed the PCV setup. The old valve covers had no holes in them for the PCV or oil filler. The new ones did so that was setup and the old holes plugged.

There was no joyrides either . I know the guys. Not that kind of shop. Plus I was there Wednesday night when the motor was put back in, and I was there for an hour or 2 yesterday whilst they were getting readings checking the mixture etc. It was sitting there idling for half an hour, and there was no noise.

After that, the mechanic drove it around to the front of the shop and reversed it up the drive. When he put in park, that's when the noise started. Went away 2 minutes later as I drove it out. Started again this morning and won't go away.


Steve - All the internals are original, only the sump & valve covers aren't original. Everything else is what rolled out the factory in '67 (has 70k on the odometre)

As above, the noise is recent. Never heard anything like it until yesterday.


New I should have waited. I wanted to wait until after the wedding, but there car has been on the road over a year, and I hadn't so much as changed the oil in the time I've owned it. I was thinking that if I didn't do something prior, Muprhy's Law would see that it crapped out with the bride in the back seat 50m from the church. I thought getting it done was the sensible thing to do.
Well Russ i hope it is real simply matey .ive had a few of these hicups along the way, mostly ends up resulting in a bigger more powerful motor
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  #18  
Old 17-05-2013, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by blackoutsteve View Post
I did a wedding once and ruptured an oil pressure line (just to the gauge) right as I was dropping off the groom at the church..
When I saw the loss of oil pressure the sight of an external leak under the car was bliss in contrast of what major problems I was fearing..

Me and the other chaffuer raced to some country auto parts store (in his Firebird) to find an NPT/BSP plug/sender/whatever to delete the gauge, then got back back to the church and fitted it right in time to take the newlyweds to the reception.. Phew..
Amazingly, I didn't get covered in grime and they didn't suspect a thing..

Bummer, but good that it's happened now Russ.

Sounds like quite the event. hahaha.

You're right though. Glad it happened today rather than tomorrow. At least this way I get to use the Challenger as a back up. Just a shame as the Impala makes a much better wedding car, especially considering that I'm supplying the only wedding car.


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Originally Posted by skyper View Post
Well Russ i hope it is real simply matey .ive had a few of these hicups along the way, mostly ends up resulting in a bigger more powerful motor
Haha, no bigger engine for me though. If it's a rebuild situation the 327 will stay. Only as a last resort would I upgrade, and even then I'd keep it simple with a mild crate 350.
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  #19  
Old 17-05-2013, 10:07 PM
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Oz64Wagon Oz64Wagon is offline
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Bummer Russ - just read this.

Re-noise: Yeah, sounds like a rocker/lifter issue. Ironically I broke a rocker in a one horse town on the way to my brothers wedding in Broken Hill. The local mechanic didn't blink when I showed it to him - he wandered out the back and pulled one off a holden 186 and after a small tweak, on it went and there it stayed for 5 years!

Enjoy the wedding mate - dont push too hard on the brides backside getting her in the Challenger!
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  #20  
Old 19-05-2013, 12:43 PM
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Just got the valve covers off. To my untrained eye nothing seems damaged, however one of the rocker arms is as loose as buggery.

Some are tight and won't budge a millimeter, others will move a mm or 2, but one is way loose.

I realise the one isn't right, but what about the others? Should there be any play in them at all?

I'll post a video in a couple minutes to show which one.
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  #21  
Old 19-05-2013, 01:28 PM
Jynx Jynx is offline
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G`Day Russ,
the rockers wont all have clearance at the same time, it depends on the position of the cam for any particular cylinder, so some will be tight and some will have clearance. You`ll need to rotate the cam to check each cylinders clearance, the piston will need to be around top dead centre for the cylinder that you`re checking.
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  #22  
Old 19-05-2013, 01:51 PM
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Here's the vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6FfGYWgoMU
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  #23  
Old 19-05-2013, 02:48 PM
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Yep, #5 intake.. From the vid, it appears that there is a little less thread on that stud, indicating that the nut has backed off some.
Pull the nut off and inspect the rocker, pivot ball, push rod and shine a torch to view the lifter. See if you can see the lifter's circlip still in place. If all good, reassemble, wetting with a little motor oil or moly lube..

If you rotate the engine to either..
TDC with #5 firing (-check that both rockers on #8 will be tight and are during the overlapping period. -#8 is opposite #5 in the firing order. ) This method is fine for small cams but it's better to..
rotate until #5's exhaust is just opening. ("EO-IC" "Exhaust opening-Intake Closing" method)
Then tighten the intake's rocker nut down until you can't rotate the pushrod between your index finger and thumb. Then give it a half turn to preload it.
If you're not using a new lock/cone/crimp nut, grab another nut of the same thread and use as a jamb-nut until you replace them all with Posi-Locks before any others decide to back off.
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Last edited by BlackoutSteve; 19-05-2013 at 02:51 PM.. Reason: typo
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  #24  
Old 19-05-2013, 05:38 PM
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This is not the proper procedure for hydraulic lifters, it's a bit messy, but it works.
Start the car, adjust the fast idle so it will idle, then (with the valve covers off) back each rocker nut off until it clatters (you'll know what I mean when you hear it)
Then tighten it down till it shuts up, let the idle smooth out, then one full turn past that, then repeat.
I know what you're going to say Steve but for an older engine, it's fine.
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  #25  
Old 19-05-2013, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by anychevy View Post
This is not the proper procedure for hydraulic lifters, it's a bit messy, but it works.
Start the car, adjust the fast idle so it will idle, then (with the valve covers off) back each rocker nut off until it clatters (you'll know what I mean when you hear it)
Then tighten it down till it shuts up, let the idle smooth out, then one full turn past that, then repeat.
I know what you're going to say Steve but for an older engine, it's fine.
Agree Dave - works a treat.
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  #26  
Old 20-05-2013, 07:41 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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I know what you're going to say Steve but for an older engine, it's fine.
No you don't !

That way is fine also..
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  #27  
Old 21-05-2013, 06:49 PM
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No you don't !
You were thinking it though
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  #28  
Old 21-05-2013, 08:13 PM
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BlackoutSteve BlackoutSteve is offline
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Not really.. I have lashed a solid cam that way, which takes longer and is therefore messier. It was a suggested method in an old book I have somewhere. I tried it.
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