Whilst I had the dash apart I decided to replace the 3 coloured lenses that show the left & right turn signals & the brake warning light as the originals where badly scuffed & faded & since I had replaced the gauge lenses I figured it would only be a halfarsed job if I didn’t do these as well..
& now the dash is happily back together again.. job done
Once it was all back together the park was not set right for my car, so when the wipers where switched off they would stop about 2 to 3 inches up from where they should be on the stops, luckily this is an easy fix as Dodge made several park positions for each wiper motor & you set them depending on which car yours is… so mine was set for a B body car, you can see where the park setting indicator is highlighted here by my screwdriver
Once I adjusted it to be set for an E body car then things where all shiny again & the wipers now work fine, park & the switch in the dash doesn’t short out spark & set the car of fire.. win win win if you ask me
Here is a crappy short clip of the wipers parking
---------- Post added at 12:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 PM ----------
This is just a quick update.. ever since I’ve had the car she’s had some small fuel weep issues from the hard lines that connect the 3 carbs of the 6 Pack together, now when I bought the car I got a new set of hard lines & blocks with her.. so I was a little disappointed when after I replaced all the lines I found that she still had a weep… seems from the research I’ve done this is quite normal for 6 Pack hard lines..
So I figured what I’d do is to make myself up a set of custom flexible braided fuel lines to fix this once & for all… so this is my hard line set up compared to my braided line set up
It fits up real nice to the 6 Pack… very happy with how this looks…
It gets pretty tight for space once I hook up all the vacuum lines, but everything fits & nothing fouls…. & most importantly nothing leaks….
I also got myself a new centre fuse block from painless wiring
The plan for this is to replace this crappy old fuse block under the dash with it… however this is going to be a new project for next winter, I don’t plan on extending this project any longer now..
---------- Post added at 12:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 PM ----------
Well this is probably more of a garage tool update than an actual project update on the Chally… I have a few things that I still need to sort out before I’m 100% happy to put the car back on the road. Firstly the gearbox is still leaking.. I thought when I put the new pan on that I had solved that issue, but it now is clear that the selector shaft seal is also leaking.. a known issue for the 727 boxes, so I have ordered one of them now & will be fitting that soon. Now depending on who you talk too it seems that most recommend that this is a gearbox out fix, whilst some suggest that if you drop the pan off & if you remove the whole valve body assembly thru the bottom of the box you can then pop the seal out from underneath… I’m not sure which of those two options I like the sound of best, but stay tuned & you’ll find out….. I might try & see if I can squeeze my hand in past the exhaust & the torsion bar & get a seal pick in to stab the old seal & twist it out, it looks pretty tight in there so I’m not sure that can be done..
Also the fuel gauge has never been right in this car, F is full & E is hall full & then a ½” to the left of E is empty… the previous owner told me that he tried bending the pickup float in the tank to get it right but it’s far from right,
So I bought a new pickup & I’ll fit that in the tank when I’m underneath doing the gearbox seal.
Now it should be a whole lot easier to do both of these jobs as I finally decided to stop talking myself out of buying a hoist & I got one… so this weekend two boxes turned up.. one held the hydraulic pump
The next box if you could call it that was a 750KG frame of the actual hoist parts
This jigsaw did come with some instructions, but to be honest it was about 4 thousand words that where clearly written by someone who’d never seen one of these hoists & had only been given a vague description of how it all went together over the phone… six clear pics would have been perfect… luckily it’s pretty hard to stuff this up & with the help of a good mate to do some of the lifting of the bits we got stuck in..
Once we had the two ends assembled as per below
We noticed that they were so close to the height of the top ramp (which houses the hydraulic ram & is over 200KG’s as a result) that we could cheat & not lift the thing at all… so we wheeled the frame over using my trolley jack & then used some stands to take the weight as we unbolted the end frames off & then moved the hoist cross arms in to meet the ramp… too easy
No before anyone asks, I went for a 4 poster & not a two as I am only renting & drilling & bolting a two post in my landlords garage would not have gone down well… also this can be used to allow me to stack park some cars & get another car into the garage… & lastly because this specific model came with a caster option that means I can very easily move the hoist to any point in the garage I want
You can even move the hoist with a car on it… I don’t think I’ll do that a lot, but if the need if ever there it’s nice to know I have the option..
Now that I have one, the irony is not lost on me that I spent months on my back replacing all the suspension on the Chally cursing that it was so cramped a space…. Because I’m only 5’10” there is more than enough room for me to stand fully upright under the car
Even if the roller door is up I still fit…
& we still get all the cars in without using the stack parking yet… hmmmm maybe I need a new car now I have a spot to put it…