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Old 03-10-2016, 01:17 PM
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Juzz Juzz is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: QLD
Posts: 328
Name: Justin
Been a while since I posted any updates, So thought I'd chuck up a bunch of pics. It's been around a year since I got the car back from the panel shop and the process has been pretty slow going. Having toddlers and being self employed doesn't give me a-lot of spare time, but we're moving.

First up, Fix all the mistakes. I resprayed the interior again. Wasnt exactly happy with what was done by the panel shop. It took a while to post these as I didnt really wanna look at it again. Inset pics show my problem..

Then add the Dynamat. In hindsight, I would have done the whole thing with Underdog as it isnt plastered with a logo and is a third of the price., But it's done now and looks good. Not sure how you keep the moisture out from between the Butane and the panels though, but it's done now..

---------- Post added at 12:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 PM ----------

Striped the front Panels off For closer inspection and so it's easier to work on.. I decided to respray the firewall, Subframe as there was overspray and rust proof it as best I could. Just making sure I'm happy and it's as spot on as I can do it. Also seam sealed in all the factory locations. An electronic rust converter will go on as well...

Solid Body mounts are all in..

---------- Post added at 12:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------

Originally Posted by BlackoutSteve View Post
Looking good.

As for the D91 "Bumble Bee" stripe. I don't think anyone would ever pick an unbroken stripe and think 6 cyl.
I assume you're not fitting an engine-size emblem there..
Heh, no.

I originally bought it as an 'Original Big Block car', but I'm not that phased with period correct look on everything. The fact that the whole drive train changes allows me to make subtle tasteful differences to the exterior in my mind. I guess I'm particular with looks. If it was a COPO or YENKO, you wouldn't change a thing. I guess it's somewhere in the middle. I just reckon it's cleaner without it. I'm opting for the de-badged look, but might drill some holes later.. I'd doubt it though.

---------- Post added at 01:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:39 PM ----------

Bolted up the front end. Everything has gone without a hitch with this. I researched the crap outta everything before I started, plus it's all bolt in, so no brainer really. Double adjustable coil over with with 11.75" coilovers and 4 piston all round.

Meanwhile my wheels rocked up. They are Wheel Vintique 17 x 8" front and 17 x 9" rear Chev Rallye. This will be good for the Engineering process as I need to fit 265 max on the back for approval . I like the steel OE look, though I wouldn't mind getting a Trans Am type wheel after the car is on the road.

Clearance check, all good.

---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:08 PM ----------

I ended up buying a decent brake flaring tool and doing the lines myself with steel lines. I was gonna go stainless, but realised seating may be a problem. Steel with a bit of clear coat looks good anyways. Attached the Torque Arm to the Third member, put the centre and axles in, install brakes, bob's ya uncle.

I mounted some brakes line retaining brackets to the diff housing, keeping in mind to leave a gap for the exhaust. It does mean I had to loop the flex line, but hoping that isn't a problem.. After all they are 'flex' lines. The wilwood documentation says to use flex lines on the rear's but I dont see what you can't just run the hard lines.

Wheels fit over the brakes easy.

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