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Old 25-08-2014, 11:55 AM
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DaveD DaveD is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 154
Name: Dave
So I had a bit of spare time on Saturday & I managed to get the lower control arm, strut rod, torsion bar setup onto both sides of the car… whilst none of that was difficult really as it’s shiny clean new parts now going onto a clean K-frame you kinda need the assistance of a mechanically minded octopus to get this stuff on… the design of the how the strut rods sit into both the K-frame & the lower control arm means that they have to be installed as one piece & then halfway thru moving that assembly into it’s final resting place you then have to ram home the torsion bars… like most things with working on cars.. the time required the install the 2nd one was a fraction of the time required to install the first..

I started by measuring the old outgoing strut rods & adjusting the new ones up to that length so that I’d be close to the correct adjustment needed when the wheels finally go one



Then I cleaned up the K-frame hole where the strut bolts into



Test fitted the strut rob to ensure that once I tightened it up the joint would be aligned the correct way, then once I was happy bolted up the K-frame end leaving the rod hanging





So I slid the lower arm pivot shaft into the pre-greased slot in the K-frame & then as it’s about half way home you slide the end of the strut rod into the control arm & then slide the whole assembly forward as far as you can.. it won’t go the whole way home until you start tightening the pivot shaft bolt up… you can also see my newly installed pitman arm on my new steering box in the pic below



Then I discovered that you cannot tighten up the nut on the control arm pivot shaft if the torsion bar is not installed.. I could get it 90% but then the pivot shaft would just spin in the K-frame rather than pull the lower arm in tight. So I slid my new torsion bars thru the cross member of the chassis & up to the lower arm, then greased up both ends.. I was expecting this to be a tight fit to be honest then new bar pushed in by had with a little help form a soft hammer so I was very happy that I didn’t have to belt the crap out of the new bars with my torsion bar removal tool & scratch the nice paint finish







Installing the torsion bars pushed the pivot shaft of the lower control arm fully home & then I was able to do up the nut call that job done… I forgot to take a pic of the new retaining clips at the rear of the torsion bars & the protective boots.. but I’ll do that as part of my next update later in the week





Hmmm looking at the above pic just now… I’m not happy with the exhaust at all, it looks too bad to stay on the car, plus the extractors are damaged & flattened at the bottom from some previous owner doing dukes of Hazzard jumps or something… so I’ll let them hack the system to put some extra mufflers on to get the car past road worthy noise checks & then I’ll get a whole new system installed

So it’s looking more & more like a car everyday now…

---------- Post added at 11:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:54 AM ----------

I have had a bit of a set back with regards to my plans for the brake upgrade for the Chally… I had originally found a great deal on a set of Willwood disks & callipers, they where 4 piston rears & 6 piston fronts.. then when I was having a discussion about these with an engineer I found out that the 6 piston jobbies don’t have a rubber seal around the piston head & as such that makes them non compliant for use on Australian roads… they would work great but the ADR’s require the rubber seal as apparently people here don’t clean the pistons before pushing them back into the calliper when changing the pads… so now the hunt is back on for a decent brake upgrade kit, the guys at Pentastar Parts have been great thru this & they are currently working with their suppliers to get me a set of 4 piston front & rear callipers that do have the rubber boots on the pistons to keep my engineer happy.

Now because I don’t want to delay this project any longer I’ve bought some new brake bits so that I can put the old stuff back on & have it actually work.. the rear cylinders where leaking on both drums so I got a new set to replace them & the master cylinder was leaking front to back so a new one was ordered too & because I like shiny things I opted to get a fancy cover to go on the top





So tonight’s was to finish putting the front end on.. I started by measuring up the old upper control arm so that I could get a base setting for the adjustable arms on the new ones, whilst everything is adjustable & that’s fantastic the design of the upper arms really means that to adjust this after they are installed on the car actually requires the cam bolts that hold the arm to the body to be removed so that you can adjust the joints in or out



Because of the design of the new arm & the way that it has a spacer block that moves the front leg of the arm out & down from the stock position means that the original bracket is actually in the way & the bottom corner needs to be ground back



A little bit of work with the die grinder & I took off the least amount of metal possible that allowed the arm to sit in place





Once I had this ground off to allow for a nice fit I then installed the new cam bolts, I guess I could have reused the old ones but I figured if I’m doing this I may as well fit all new hardware where possible… plus its nicer working with new clean bits rather than old greasy parts



Now because the joint end for the rear leg of the control arm is narrower than the stock leg of the stock arm the kit comes with a selection of spacers for you to pack out the difference



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Dave

1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver
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