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Old 25-08-2014, 11:02 AM
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DaveD DaveD is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 154
Name: Dave
Now that the front end was bare it was time to remove all the hanging parts from the rear end, seemed simple enough.. so I started with the rear sway bar, first I removed the link ends from where they attached to both the sway bar & to the bracket on the diff.



It’s interesting to note, or at least it was interesting for me that he new Hotchkis rear sway bar differs in a few way to the stock one & not just in thickness as you would imagine… the stock bar uses the normal links that you would expect to see on the ends of a sway bat, yet the new bar uses a solid dog bone instead



One of the things I really like about this TVS kit is that every part has a grease nipple built in.. I must now invest in a grease gun for my air compressor & get into the habit of re-greasing this stuff a few times a year. The other big difference is actually how the sway bars run on the car.. the stock bar’s end links are attached to the diff plate where the springs mount & then the bar runs above the diff & has two pivot mounts attached to the chassis rails as you can see in the pic below



Now the new bar mounts completely differently, it’s pivot mounts are attached to the underside of the diff using a set of U-Bolts



Then the bar runs under the diff, not above as per the original & the dog bone ends attach to new brackets that will have to be welded to the chassis rail, these are in almost the exact same spot as the pivot mounts for the old bar where



Once I unbolted the pivot mounts from the chassis rails it became apparent that there was no way that the bar would be able to squeeze past the frame & the exhaust to be extracted from under the car



I thought long & hard about removing the exhaust as I’m sure that that is what you are supposed to do, but then I decided that I really wasn’t arse doing that, so I spent more time than I should trying to wiggle the bloody thing out of a gap that I could clearly see it was not going to fit through… then I decided for a more forceful way forward (& no I’m not about to cut the shock)



Once I’d cut the weld where the two brackets joined then I was able to pry them open & remove the whole thing off the bar



Now I was able to wiggle the bar out… success, it even looks like I could reuse that bracket if I ever needed to



Old vs new… the old bar as it lays here is as it was orientated under the car pivots at the front & links at the rear , the new bar is upside down.. the new bar will have the dog bones at the front & the pivots not shown here will be either side of the Hotchkis sticker on the bar connected to the diff as show above in an earlier pic



---------- Post added at 11:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 AM ----------

Next step was to remove the brake lines & the shocks from the diff, then pull the driveshaft again & I opted to disconnect the handbrake cables from the middle joins under the car, so you’ll see them dangling from the diff later.. seemed smarted that taking the rear brakes apart again, I also took the weight of the diff off the springs with my trolley jack





I had planned in my mind to remove the rear bolts from the shackles that hold the springs on & then gently lower the whole diff & spring assembly to the floor & then undo the front bolts & drop the whole thing out so that I could work on removing the springs out from under the car… however I discovered that with the location of the rear shackles & the angle of rear valance panel you have to drop the springs from the front first or they will hit the valance panel… & mine is in bad enough shape as it is..



Next plan then was to remove springs from the car one at a time whilst leaving the diff suspended in mid air, then when they where both out I would gently lower the diff down. So the next step was to remove the nuts from the U-Bolts that hold the springs on, even after days of repeated soaking of these with penetrating oil it was bloody hard to get these undone.. even using an air gun.. again the thick coating of Shultz did not help.. these nuts ate the threads off themselves & the U-Bolts on the way off.. good thing the kit came with new ones, no way these could be reused again.. once all four where off I just used my pry bar to get the bottom bracket off



Once the U-Bolts where off the spring dropped as the weight of the diff was on the jack now



Then I undid the both that holds the front of the spring in it’s bracket… & discovered that the bolt was longer that the gap between the spring & the side of the car!!



Bugger.. onto plan C now, I undid the four bolts that hold the bracket that the spring bolts to at the front



Then I lowered the front of the spring down to the ground



Now I could finally undo the rear shackles & remove the spring sliding it forwards on the ground until the spring was far enough forward to be removed without hitting the valance panel



---------- Post added at 11:02 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:01 AM ----------

Old spring vs new spring… the new spring has a lot less leaves that the old stock spring, I assume that will lower the rear of the car some what



Simply repeated what the same procedure on the other side now & then making sure to support the front of the diff housing as the nose is long & heavy I gently lowered the diff to the ground & slid it out of the way



Now the job of removing bits is finally done.. happy days







Today I spent some time in the garage cleaning up the areas that will require new brackets to be welded to the car.. So I started cleaning up where the bracket for the dog bone connectors for the rear sway bar will go





Then I cleaned up where the painted bracket will need to be welded to the steel one

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Dave

1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver
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