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Old 25-08-2014, 10:57 AM
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DaveD DaveD is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 154
Name: Dave
I did a bit of research on the Interweb as to how to assemble up a braided line with Earls AN adapters & it’s luckily very simple (as evidenced by the fact that I was able to do it) When I got my length of braided hose the end wasn’t exactly neat & ready to be used

So I was going to have to cut the end off & make a nice neat end to work with, now there are a few methods listed out there.. the actual people who make the braided hose say to use a very sharp chisel & block of steel to guillotine cut the hose, I didn’t have said chisel & also I was pretty sure that that was a sales ploy from them as I would no doubt have turned my lovely new braided hose into a flat mash of rubber bits embedded with lots & lots of mushed steel strands… the other two options are a hack saw & finally a cut off wheel in a grinder of some sort… the hack saw sounded like manual labour to be & not nearly as much fun as the grinder option. I started by locking the hose in a vice, I don’t own a set of soft jaws for my vice so I used a cloth to stop me from damaging the braided hose, I then taped up the end of the hose very very tightly to stop the steel strands from moving as I cut.

The Earls connectors are made up of two parts the red inner (I call it the inner as it ends up on the inside of the hose if that makes sense) section & the blue outer section

Now of course I ****ed up the first cut.. I simply tried to cut right through but as I got to the final bottom section the waste cut off section was flopping around & it pulled some of the steel strands… so for my 2nd attempt I help the grinder in one hand & used a set of pliers to hold the waste section taut as I was cutting & this did the trick. Then I held the inner non movable section of the connector in my vice & slowly press fitted the hose into the connector, being very careful not to allow any stray steel strands to go outside the connector

Once the hose was in the connector far enough, should be just shy of the threads

I then marked the hose so I could see if the hose moved at all out of the connector whilst I screwed in the inner section

Then I applied a little oil to the blue outer connector & placed it in the vice & proceeded to press the red connector onto the threads whilst screwing it on at the same time

Once it was on hand tight I then did it up with a spanner in the vice

I then checked that the hose hadn’t moved from the line I marked earlier & then your done.. the first one took me longer than it should of to be honest as I was being very careful not to bugger up the hose or the shiny connector, the rest of the connectors went on in no time

---------- Post added at 10:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 AM ----------

Once I had mastered the art of hose building I was feeling very chuffed with myself I must say (I know small things, small minds) then I arranged everything out on the bench to ensure that I had enough ends & to be sure I knew where I wanted everything to be in the engine bay

Fitted the new fuel pump & ran a new length of rubber hose from the tank hard line to the fuel pump.. I’m now thinking of running a full length of braided hose from the fuel pump back to the tank… not 100% sure yet, I’m also thinking of fitting an aluminium drop tank to replace the OEM tank & running a proper electric pump at the tank end… we’ll see

Started to route the new line & filter in, making sure that none of the bends are sharp & that there is nothing for it to catch on or rub against, it is touching the water bottle but I’ll keep an eye on that

The next part of the puzzle was putting an AN adapter piece onto the metal fuel rail from the 6 Pack, you can see the red cover on the end of the rail in the pic above. They do make an adapter than uses an brass olive that forms the liquid tight seal, I had to cut off the existing flared end of the pipe as you can see

This had to be done so that the red connector end & the olive could both slide onto the fuel rail

Then you simply push the blue threaded end into the red connector & tighten until they join crushing the olive & making a leak proof seal, sadly I damaged the soft connector in my vice.. note to self but some soft jaws

---------- Post added at 10:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 AM ----------

Then I simply connected up the other sections of hose that I had made up & installed my inline fuel pressure gauge

Now with the alternator reinstalled it’s a very cosy corner of the engine bay, but everything fits & nothing is rubbing or catching so I’m happy

---------- Post added at 10:57 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:57 AM ----------

Ok, so I’ve got a long list of things that I want to do/fix on this car & some are near time & other are longer term.. as I know that the car is currently too load to get on the road here in Australia I’ll have to get some mufflers installed, my thinking is that I have these installed in the final section after the diff. I plan on getting some flanges installed so that the section from the diff to the rear hanger can be bolted off easily, to this end I’ve gotten a new set of shiny tips for the exhaust.. so I’ll have two sets of exhaust ends, one with mufflers & one without is my current thinking.

Another thing that has been bugging me since I bought this car is to do with the bonnet, the hinges are shagged, they sag, wobble from side to side & the bonnet moves front to back when your driving also.. so I’ve gotten a new set of hinges to install

I had also noticed that some of the rubber stops that you expect to see along the side of the fender to hold the bonnet in place when it’s closed where either missing or badly perished, so I bought a new set of them

Fitting the front two has a made a huge difference, the bonnet is now snug when it’s closed & it doesn’t move around anymore.. it used to move & rub up against the locking pins & cause a most annoying squeak.. not anymore, job sorted.. a I’ve said before sometimes it’s the little things that make all the difference

On the subject of locking pins, as the bonnet was moving it’s actually bent up a little where the pin protrudes through & I’d never been convinced that the locking pin surrounds where legit, they just looked like crappy disks of 1mm steel screwed onto the bonnet.. so I ordered a new set & what do you know I was right.. once the hinges are fitted, I’ll fit these also


1969 Pontiac GTO - GM Weekend Toy
1972 Dodge Challenger Sixpack R/T Clone- Mopar Weekend Toy
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Coupe - Ford Weekend Toy
1978 Camaro - Chev Weekend Toy
4.2 Supercharged V8 RangeRover Sport - Daily driver
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