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CH3V
17-03-2012, 10:19 PM
Hey guys I've just had my radiator tested and its cactus, so to all the Lads with bigblocks or hot small blocks what are you guys using. I've heard bad reports about pwr and aussie deseart coolers. I had a Be cool and haven't had any issues with the last motor over heating but not sure if i were to get another one would it be ok for the new higher horse power donk and also availability in Australia may be a problem. Any help would be appreciated

tuffss
17-03-2012, 10:22 PM
Hey guys I've just had my radiator tested and its cactus, so to all the Lads with bigblocks or hot small blocks what are you guys using. I've heard bad reports about pwr and aussie deseart coolers. I had a Be cool and haven't had any issues with the last motor over heating but not sure if i were to get another one would it be ok for the new higher horse power donk and also availability in Australia may be a problem. Any help would be appreciated

Race Radiators in Dandenong Vic, real happy with their product and pricing.
Cheers Mick.

An old photo but radiator is visible in picture
13671

tezza101
17-03-2012, 11:54 PM
Yep x 2 for Race. Jason can do a unit with mounting holes ready for a stock shroud too. Combined with stock clutch fan, keeps my 496 BB below 190 deg F on hot days. Had unit for eight months, cannot fault..

1968SS
18-03-2012, 07:36 AM
X3 for race radiators, mines all good.

cheers Mark

1956SedanDelivery
18-03-2012, 07:51 AM
Rocket sells Be cool radiators

BCP62009 $650.00
http://www.rocketoutlet.com.au/shop/search/?brand=BECOOL

chevguy
18-03-2012, 11:24 AM
I got a mega dollar pwr. Up here mine runs at around 210 stopped in traffic in town and around 180f on the fly.Think it was $1300

skyper
18-03-2012, 01:43 PM
so guys all the 3 and 4 row radiators on ebay for 2 and $300 i take it that they r junk , has anyone bought one and tryed them hear,what would be wrong with them

lazy69
18-03-2012, 02:40 PM
My mate bought a cheap one & was supposed to be a bolt straight in that he needed to modify & then it only lasted about 6 months before one of the tubes let go..

natrally aspirated
18-03-2012, 03:28 PM
well my experience any good aluminium radiator will do it its more about the fan set up then the radiator and to prove it i use a northern radiator got from summit for $145 but i got two bosch fans that cost $270 but my 850hp engine never runs past 180 even when stuck in cbd traffic or doing hotlaps on the race track. upto you some look nicer than others but that about it.

BlackoutSteve
18-03-2012, 04:56 PM
Not sure why, but I hear bad about Desert Coolers yet my experience is good..
Norm put a copper 5 core between my brass tanks years ago and there is nothing wrong with it.
With the oe shroud, 7 blade clutch fan and 180F thermostat, the thing cruises at 175-185F on mid 20C days.
When it was mid-high 30s, I think the highest it's ever got was ~205F. 12:1c/r 454.
I also have a heat exchanger that uses coolant to cool the engine's oil. Doesn't bother it.

67cammy
18-03-2012, 06:38 PM
I also have no bad reports about Desert Coolers....so far anyway. Using the Aluminium and have only done 3,000km at the moment.

tezza101
18-03-2012, 06:53 PM
Confused yet Dean? :)

CH3V
18-03-2012, 07:45 PM
cheers guys and yes Terry still a bit confused which way to go, to many options. So i think ill see if rocket has a becool in stock and failing that i'll call race radiators.

guffer
18-03-2012, 08:06 PM
I have heard some not so good reports on Aussie Desert Coolers and nothing but good reports from many on the Race Radiators
i need a new one for my 67 and will get it from Race Radiators

natrally aspirated
19-03-2012, 07:39 AM
I built a 540bbc for a guy he used desert cooler top of the range raidiator and fan set up it gets hot if it idles for 15min then when you see the fan and shroud set up you can see why. The shroud is set back an inch and has many 2inch holes in it then fans would pull air from the holes not the radiator core. althou it looked nice it was not a good design at all. Be cool has a good reputation and so does Race radiators by the looks here. Like i said the key is in the fans used u want minimum 3200cfm fan rating this is the au falcon fan the bosch i use is 4000cfm and i use a cheap radiator

chevval
19-03-2012, 08:06 AM
I've stuck with a brass/copper 4 core with shroud and clutch fan, seem to work fine, will be interesting to see what temps I get with the fresh rebuild though but I don't think I'll change from the current setup.

natrally aspirated
19-03-2012, 08:38 AM
yeh the clutch fan set up is actually the most efficent for air flow nothing comes close to the air that a oem mechanicle fan can pull. its only when peolple swap to a electric fan that all the problems begin. like ive said if ever going to a electric fan set up get the best fan possible then run nulon race coolant has no glycol and further drops temp as glycol in other coolants traps heat. hey deano did you have a electric fan set up before?

chevguy
19-03-2012, 09:12 AM
Completely agree I think the radiator only cools as good as the fans pulling through it(within reason). You can get away with a bit more with a small block because you have a bit more circulation space inside the bay. Having bought a pwr and a desert cooler(which I returned) I would honestly give the guys at race radiators a go as I have never heard a bad report about them. In this game that`s rare. Buy the right gear to start with and know the problem is sorted, don`t be like me and buy 2 radiators and have 3 different fan setups before your happy. I ended up with a massive clutch driven engine fan which I am happy with but I`m sure I could have went with a twin thermo setup to work(my 16" single spal thermo didn`t do squat). Hope this helps.

camaro_1967rs
19-03-2012, 05:51 PM
Not sure why, but I hear bad about Desert Coolers yet my experience is good..
Norm put a copper 5 core between my brass tanks years ago and there is nothing wrong with it.
With the oe shroud, 7 blade clutch fan and 180F thermostat, the thing cruises at 175-185F on mid 20C days.
When it was mid-high 30s, I think the highest it's ever got was ~205F. 12:1c/r 454.
I also have a heat exchanger that uses coolant to cool the engine's oil. Doesn't bother it.

Norm builds the copper cores himself, these have a good rap, most Rodders get the copper.

Norms alloy ones come from china I have been informed, I have two of norms in my garage, $900 each, both failed, can't argue with fact.

Oh! If you are purchasing from race radiators ask the to incorporate a sacrificial anode, that way you don't loose your new radiator to voltage erosion, voltage in the water should not be positive, currently mine is +1vdc this is not that good, the sacrificial anode handles that. All I have to remind my self to do is every 5 years is to check the large bullet shaped piece of lead as the lead is eroded slowly away by the chemical relationship of Steele and alloy, one of the reasons I never went alloy heads on my engine.

Replaced with race radiators, did a heap of custom stuff in prep for the blower, twin AU fans as std, it runs 205 f on hot days and 190f driving around. But! This is one part of the cooling system.

Trans cooling has to be right
Engine oil cooling needs to be right
Fuel cooling needs to be right
Last but not least timing needs to be set without being too lean
Air flow access through grill, I have put a cover over the radiator panel to direct air thru radiator.


Most people who have issues with heat ( including myself) will find that they have not sorted the above. If you read my build thread you will see recently my work on oil cooling, if you look into Steve's blackout build thread you will see work on the engine and trans oil systems with heat exchangers, also his fuel system. If you look at my engine bay you will see that that is what it takes to run a big hp car on the streets reliably. If your system is mild or std, all the above is still relevant.

---------- Post added at 06:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:33 PM ----------

Completely agree I think the radiator only cools as good as the fans pulling through it(within reason). You can get away with a bit more with a small block because you have a bit more circulation space inside the bay. Having bought a pwr and a desert cooler(which I returned) I would honestly give the guys at race radiators a go as I have never heard a bad report about them. In this game that`s rare. Buy the right gear to start with and know the problem is sorted, don`t be like me and buy 2 radiators and have 3 different fan setups before your happy. I ended up with a massive clutch driven engine fan which I am happy with but I`m sure I could have went with a twin thermo setup to work(my 16" single spal thermo didn`t do squat). Hope this helps.

16" spal thermo only moves around 3700 cam, I had the 18" and that just handled the sbc at 5000 cam from mem, big dollar fan.

CH3V
19-03-2012, 08:48 PM
yeh the clutch fan set up is actually the most efficent for air flow nothing comes close to the air that a oem mechanicle fan can pull. its only when peolple swap to a electric fan that all the problems begin. like ive said if ever going to a electric fan set up get the best fan possible then run nulon race coolant has no glycol and further drops temp as glycol in other coolants traps heat. hey deano did you have a electric fan set up before?
No Fausto i was running a flex type fan but I'm planning on going to electric fans.

---------- Post added at 08:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 PM ----------

This may be a silly question but here it is anyway, how do they rate the radiators to a hp figure, eg I got a quote for the Becool replacement from rocket and they said it is rated for a big block up to 400hp.Is it just the core thickness that regulates this or is it a crock.

1956SedanDelivery
20-03-2012, 12:26 PM
I think you will find that they rate it at 400hp with one 16" electric fan or maybe just a flex fan or stock engine fan. But if you use say twin 11inch fans they rate it at 700hp and if you use twin 13inch they rate it at 1000hp but it is actually 3" wider.
That is how my radiator was listed on the becool site. The three HP rated radiators are all twin 1" core but all have different fans for the HP rating and the 1000hp one is 3" wider.
I have a $2500 module to go in my 56 chev and it is rated at 700hp but if it had bigger fans it would be rated at 1000hp and still use the same radiator. Thats what they say anyway.

I think the one you rang up about doesnt come with any fans so it will be up to you on what you use and how much air they pull.

More HP = more heat
More heat = more airflow needed to cool it.

I have allways used a Clutch fan up untill this new set up and have never been a fan(ha ha) of electric fans because they have never worked for me but I have also never used shrouded fans, so for now all I can do is hope they work.

http://www.becool.com/productsearch

GM NUT
20-03-2012, 05:20 PM
Hmm.
Hope my ebay ally rad with twin 14" Spals will do the job now!!
Have fully shrouded it, so all the air is pulled thru the rad, with a splitter between the two fans so they draw thru each side separately...
We will see..

BlackoutSteve
20-03-2012, 06:05 PM
I thought it was in BTUs.. A core of a certain size exchanges x-amount of BTUs, then BTUs are converted into HP, then it's a ratio of engine output, which in theory, is what is lost to heat (minus exhaust) -which I thought was 1/3. (1 Btu = 0.000 393 014 802 09 horsepower hour)
At least that's what I would expect.
I sure hope fans of any type have nothing to do with the rating because when the engine is making power with the radiator moving through the air, they aren't even needed.
In fact, thermos and their flat sheet metal shrouds are often a restriction at speed.

camaro_1967rs
20-03-2012, 07:59 PM
I sure hope fans of any type have nothing to do with the rating because when the engine is making power with the radiator moving through the air, they aren't even needed.
d.

Your slipping Steve, the fans are setup to work harder on the quarter, as Popoff says an 18" spal fan with the right oxygen to load transfer levels over the BTU, whilst useing Pythagoras theory of this goes with that and a square root of an 18 yr old x = <1892000.00>~~ the no 4 = 1/10 of a second gain.
:rolleyes:
Basically the fan pulls the car along to a better time.

---------- Post added at 08:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:48 PM ----------

Ok where does heat soak fit in?

As I said below it does not matter how big your electric fan is, or your clutch fan if have not sorted the whole package.

If you have a daily driver with a few horses put in a 3 or 4 core copper with clutch fan.

if money's tight put in a cheap large radiator and put a clutch fan or electric fan.

Focus on putting a large trans cooler on

The after 1 hour of driving check your oil temp, if it over 270 f I would be looking at an oil cooler as well.

It's that easy, but dare I say it it took me 2 yrs to sort, but that why most of us have tried to help you, as we have all been where you are at currently, asking the same questions.

Everyone here is right.

1956SedanDelivery
20-03-2012, 08:01 PM
I thought it was in BTUs.. A core of a certain size exchanges x-amount of BTUs, then BTUs are converted into HP, then it's a ratio of engine output, which in theory, is what is lost to heat (minus exhaust) -which I thought was 1/3. (1 Btu = 0.000 393 014 802 09 horsepower hour)
At least that's what I would expect.
I sure hope fans of any type have nothing to do with the rating because when the engine is making power with the radiator moving through the air, they aren't even needed.
In fact, thermos and their flat sheet metal shrouds are often a restriction at speed.
I was gunna say that but I had to mow the lawn.:D

CH3V
20-03-2012, 08:27 PM
Thanks guys, I realy appreciate all your help.

natrally aspirated
20-03-2012, 11:08 PM
dont be fooled by the hp ratings of these radiators they can handle a fair bit of hp. remember 800hp is only being used at a small section of time at end of rpm range when you are cruising and driving normally your using about 100hp no 800 and when on hway your probaly using 50hp as a guestamate so as long as the radiator has enough surface area which most do and the water flows throw it at all vehicle rpm and air also at all vehicle speed it will do the job regardless of hp. I see more low hp and stock motores overheat than modified higer hp engines. dean your engine will run cool, get that be cool radiator or race one and get some powerfull fans i like the derale ones that come with the shroud as they are the powerfull bosch ones i use. also helps to use a high flow thermostat which i surplied with your engine so it should be all good and dont use too much coolant this can cause problems too.

skyper
21-03-2012, 05:31 PM
when i got my first 69 it was stolen and had no radiator and i put a XB Falcon rad in it, it fit straight in,i ran 12.5 lumpy tops and never whent over 180,but i did have 2 big themo fans on it,i just had a mate who bought a EBAY RAD so i will keep an eye on his,i think the trick is the fans

DualQuad396
21-03-2012, 08:01 PM
I'm using an AFCO aluminum radiator in mine with 7 blade clutch fan no problems at all, also use a sacrificial anode attached to the radiator cap because of problems with electrolysis in the past , which killed my Be Cool radiator in 3 months.

skyper
21-03-2012, 08:12 PM
i think discussion is great you all have great imput, a lot of food for thought

CH3V
23-04-2012, 08:03 PM
Hey guys I gave race radiators a call they sound good but the problem I've got is the 2 different radiator cores with the 2 differnent thermo setups he offers are way to thick. the measurement for the 65mm core with the smaller fans is 170mm which is 25mm to much for the cap from the radiator support to the water pump pulley.Have any of you guys using these radiators had this issue? I'm starting to think ill have to use the flex fan again.

natrally aspirated
23-04-2012, 08:18 PM
Hey mate just measured my set up rad is 60mm core and fan set up is only 88mm so mine is about 145-148mm thats a northern rad branded as a summit rad and derale fan kit and i run the same set up as you as far as engine pump and pulleys go. look like his fans are a bit thicker:D

rs/ss 68 camaro
23-04-2012, 11:30 PM
had a bigblock66 vette a few years ago tried all sorts of things to keep her cool i suggest a standard factory syle radiator is up to the task i found a guy who modified the **** steel impeller in the water pump with a brass unit closed the tollerances and it ran on 180 alday with a stock harrison 3 core and a shroud. radiators are all overpriced and not where you should be looking at my 2 cents anyway
go fatory

BlackoutSteve
24-04-2012, 05:37 AM
...i found a guy who modified the **** steel impeller in the water pump with a brass unit closed the tollerances and it ran on 180 alday with a stock harrison 3 core and a shroud.

John Bennet?
He fitted his own impellers and even had a dyno to flow/pressure balance them. I still have one of his modified pumps in my shed. Very good pump.

Greg396SSRS
24-04-2012, 07:18 AM
Hi Guys. i have just started driving my car as it has recently been completed. On an average 22-25deg day my car (BB396 approx 480hp) has been sitting on 190deg. In traffic it seems to climb to approc 205. Radiator is factory (original to that car) with clutch fan. I have also installed an electric fan to the front of the radiator to help with sitting in traffic, but doesnt seem to do much, appart from maintain it and not allowing it to keep climbing. The other issue is that when i pull over, it spits out a constant trickle of water from the over flow. i dont like this look, and it will stain my driveway. As i have only driven for the last few weeks, (still not warm weather) it seems to be ok, but i think i may have some problems as the weather warms up to 30deg and over.
i have used Norm at Aussie for my 2006 Rodeo with a Gen 3 5.7Ltr. i am now on radiator no.3 as they keep chewing out. The first he replaced under warranty (happened in 4 months), the second was replaced less than 12 months later and he charged full wack, as he believes i have stray current causing the aluminium to be chewed. I have had his recommended auto elec check and NOW there is no stray current (earth cables everywhere!!!):(

chevguy
24-04-2012, 07:50 AM
Hey Greg,fit an overflow bottle and replace the cap on your radiator.You might want to have a look at some of the cooling posts as there`s been a lot on this subject and on radiators. The temps you are running aren`t out of the ball park though.

rs/ss 68 camaro
24-04-2012, 08:53 AM
steve you are corret didnt need a super trik radiator had a full spec L88 in the vet with the standard bigblock radiator never over heated

Greg396SSRS
24-04-2012, 01:03 PM
Hey Greg,fit an overflow bottle and replace the cap on your radiator.You might want to have a look at some of the cooling posts as there`s been a lot on this subject and on radiators. The temps you are running aren`t out of the ball park though.

Thanks Chevguy......at the risk of sounding silly, how does the overflow bottle return water back to the radiator, and are you suggesting i need a return type cap?
Can you get these overflow bottles to llok factory, or even hide them?:confused:

BlackoutSteve
24-04-2012, 05:25 PM
Thanks Chevguy......at the risk of sounding silly, how does the overflow bottle return water back to the radiator, and are you suggesting i need a return type cap?
Can you get these overflow bottles to llok factory, or even hide them?:confused:

A recovery cap and over flow bottle can help, but the engine should not overheat with the standard set up.
The factory suggests filling to 1" below the neck. If you are always topping it right up, it will always spit some out due to expansion.
They are a good idea as they stop air being introduced into the cooling system, but that's all they really do in comparison.
Keep the cap at the oe pressure. Don't be tempted to go higher.

What size is the core?

I have a 5 core copper/brass w/23" core (from Norm) and with a regular 180F thermostat, it will sit in traffic at ~180-185F on a low 20C day.
Mostly, the cruising temp is 175-185F. Mine is 454/580 with a Edelbrock Victor pump, 7 blade clutch fan & shroud, a 15lb non-recovery cap and my water also cools my engine oil through an exchanger..
A 4 core (or alum equiv) should cool yours easy.

chevguy
24-04-2012, 08:27 PM
Thanks Chevguy......at the risk of sounding silly, how does the overflow bottle return water back to the radiator, and are you suggesting i need a return type cap?
Can you get these overflow bottles to llok factory, or even hide them?:confused:

Dunno about factory look bud but as Steve said you get a recovery cap that feeds to a overflow bottle(make sure the bottle has a pipe running to the bottom or it feeds into the bottom of the overflow tank for fluid return)This to me is step 1 of fixing/fault finding. If you do this and it still keeps overheating etc. you need to look at the radiator/fan clutch etc. start with the cheap easy stuff 1st though:)

CH3V
24-04-2012, 08:49 PM
Hey mate just measured my set up rad is 60mm core and fan set up is only 88mm so mine is about 145-148mm thats a northern rad branded as a summit rad and derale fan kit and i run the same set up as you as far as engine pump and pulleys go. look like his fans are a bit thicker:D

cheers mate, yeh they are quite a bit bigger. I'm going to get onto the derale units with the becool radiator. hopefully it wont be too much in freight.

camaro_1967rs
24-04-2012, 10:51 PM
Dunno about factory look bud but as Steve said you get a recovery cap that feeds to a overflow bottle(make sure the bottle has a pipe running to the bottom or it feeds into the bottom of the overflow tank for fluid return)This to me is step 1 of fixing/fault finding. If you do this and it still keeps overheating etc. you need to look at the radiator/fan clutch etc. start with the cheap easy stuff 1st though:)

This is my header tank on the left side, does not have to be as elaborate, you could adopt any v8 model Holden or ford units back to 2000, and sort of look factory.

I put this on to remove air in the system, I was getting pockets trapped in my old sbc 406's Siamese bore heads. It worked perfectly, and helped to drive down engine temp.

A dash 6 fitting is welded to the right side of the tank at the highest point.
A dash 12 fitting is welded on the opposite side half way down the radiator on the side header tank on the radiator.

Theory
Any air blocks rise to the dash 6 fitting, forced up hill (heat rises) to the header tank, when it goes over the caps rating the system lets the steam blow by and out onto the road.


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x102/bucketofbubbles_detailing/cbe390e5.jpg

MUST DO IF HEATS A PROBLEM

1). B&M supercooler for TH trans. $200
2). Oil cooler either another supercooler, or small unit with sensor actuated fan. $350
3). Header tank. A F"ing" lot! $300, use a ford or Holden unit, second had $30 bucks.
3). Ford AU twin fans set to around 190 F, my radiator has a 1/2 bung for a trico electric 190 dec F sensor which turns the fans on. $170 new
4) optional a remote filter inline, that has worked well on the bbc, I used NASCAR C&R unit which has 2" centre core, takes dash 12 fitting as per image two below. $320 s/h new inventory not used. K&N oil filter $30, block off plate at engine $120, oil lines and fittings $250

If its still hot you have an engine problem, or radiator problem.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x102/bucketofbubbles_detailing/5e591159.jpg

P.S I won't touch any cast assemblies again after my experiences with DERALE, BILLET FITTINGS ONLY. The billet fittings C&R, system1, and several other brands, are more accurate the fittings are a better seal, where the cast items I had, had dags in the O ring slots, or dags from the Zinc finishing, just very low quality and in my opinion over priced.

Greg396SSRS
25-04-2012, 04:11 PM
Dunno about factory look bud but as Steve said you get a recovery cap that feeds to a overflow bottle(make sure the bottle has a pipe running to the bottom or it feeds into the bottom of the overflow tank for fluid return)This to me is step 1 of fixing/fault finding. If you do this and it still keeps overheating etc. you need to look at the radiator/fan clutch etc. start with the cheap easy stuff 1st though:)

Thanks Chevguy. Is there a proper factory Chevrolet overflow bottle available or any type from your usual places (Repco, Bursons, etc)?

skyper
25-04-2012, 07:49 PM
This is my header tank on the left side, does not have to be as elaborate, you could adopt any v8 model Holden or ford units back to 2000, and sort of look factory.

I put this on to remove air in the system, I was getting pockets trapped in my old sbc 406's Siamese bore heads. It worked perfectly, and helped to drive down engine temp.

A dash 6 fitting is welded to the right side of the tank at the highest point.
A dash 12 fitting is welded on the opposite side half way down the radiator on the side header tank on the radiator.

Theory
Any air blocks rise to the dash 6 fitting, forced up hill (heat rises) to the header tank, when it goes over the caps rating the system lets the steam blow by and out onto the road.


http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x102/bucketofbubbles_detailing/cbe390e5.jpg

MUST DO IF HEATS A PROBLEM

1). B&M supercooler for TH trans. $200
2). Oil cooler either another supercooler, or small unit with sensor actuated fan. $350
3). Header tank. A F"ing" lot! $300, use a ford or Holden unit, second had $30 bucks.
3). Ford AU twin fans set to around 190 F, my radiator has a 1/2 bung for a trico electric 190 dec F sensor which turns the fans on. $170 new
4) optional a remote filter inline, that has worked well on the bbc, I used NASCAR C&R unit which has 2" centre core, takes dash 12 fitting as per image two below. $320 s/h new inventory not used. K&N oil filter $30, block off plate at engine $120, oil lines and fittings $250

If its still hot you have an engine problem, or radiator problem.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x102/bucketofbubbles_detailing/5e591159.jpg

P.S I won't touch any cast assemblies again after my experiences with DERALE, BILLET FITTINGS ONLY. The billet fittings C&R, system1, and several other brands, are more accurate the fittings are a better seal, where the cast items I had, had dags in the O ring slots, or dags from the Zinc finishing, just very low quality and in my opinion over priced.

paul that motor is filthy...mate thats cool

CH3V
30-05-2012, 08:29 PM
Finished my alloy shroud for the derale thermo's today, didn't turn out to bad.
14769

78mg
31-05-2012, 09:35 AM
Greg,

Try getting rid of the clutch fan and putting a flex with spacer in instead.

My car was overheating badly - my clutch fan was only around a year old but had died - swapped to a spacer and it runs coool all day long.

BlackoutSteve
31-05-2012, 05:04 PM
Clutch fans move air..
Flex fans flex when they should be moving air.. :)

chevval
31-05-2012, 05:12 PM
Clutch fans move air..
Flex fans flex when they should be moving air.. :)

chaching!!:p