Yep another steering question

[grubs]

Ok I am in the midst of doing a full RestoMod on my 67 Camaro, and I am at the crossroads with the steering set up. The old set up was BBC with extractors coupled to a 5spd tremec (with enough room to swing a cat in the tunnel) with power steering for RHD with a HQ PS box.

Is there a smaller PS Box than the HQ PS box out there. Other option is the RHD rack and pinion from AOI, but at $4000 for R&P/ chrome column also out of my reach...bummer

The reason I am asking this is becuase my new BBC with same extractors will be coupled to a 4L80e which is a large trannie which will not give me much room in the tunnel, if anything I probably will have to massage the tunnel to get the trannie to fit.

Also I remember seeing a RHD 67 BB firebird which had a modified chassis rail to accomodate the PS box (cant remember the box though), is there any engineering certs required for this mod?

[chevguy]

Not sure about rhd but there are a heap of companies making R&P in the states. It may be worth doing a bit more research on prices on these.

[S[_]SPECT]

Richard, the AOI kits are just Unisteer racks and Ididit columns. The advantage of AOI is they have engineering approval for RHD kits (hence the extra $$).

Chris (68Camaro) has an AOI rack in his Camaro, I have a LHD one for my Mustang.

Pretty sure Jamie (Wild68) has a RHD rack in his, but not sure where its from.

Chassisworks now do RHD racks as well..
http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-186-rack-street-machine-power.aspx
But you'd need to also account for engineers signoff locally. Pretty sure there are others as well.. with the $$ the way it is, might be worth looking to the states.. and importing yourself.

[Not 028]

Richard,
Does it have to be power steering? There are plenty of manual RHD racks that you can cut down to fit. And they should only set you back a few hundred dollars. I run a commodore rack in mine which gives good clearance with the big block.
Sheridan.

[grubs]

Richard,
Does it have to be power steering? There are plenty of manual RHD racks that you can cut down to fit. And they should only set you back a few hundred dollars. I run a commodore rack in mine which gives good clearance with the big block.
Sheridan.

How tight is the steering?

[Nev68]

The GM Type 2 pump is a bit smaller

[Not 028]

How tight is the steering?


I run 2 inch primarys with plenty of room, though they were custom made. I couldn't see 2 1/4 being a problem either, if you are going big.

[67camaro454]

Hey Richard, My 67 had a manual VB commodore rack, i swapped this for a powersteering rack had a few issues with mounting powersteer pump and alternator, all worked out in the end, also running a Big Block but i had my 2'' primary's custom built around the steering shaft and starter motor.:D

[blackoutsteve]

If you are thinking of a different steering box, I would be very careful of anything other than an "Australian delivery" RHD Saginaw.
Falcon and HQ boxes are popular but placing them in the "correct" location may involve some guess work and/or compromise in order to maintain the OE geometry and the mating of other parts.
Pitman arms are generally unique to their intended steering boxes and can have "included angles" that my make them do things that weren't intended. So, getting the Pitman arm in the right place may then require the box in a certain location that may alter the steering column angle and/or it's height.
The Saginaw boxes are exact mirror copies of the OE 1st Gen Camaro boxes and they are reliable and as strong as ever. Hugely popular with Jeep and Land Cruiser conversions. These are heavy cars that need steering power.
Problem.. They are bulky and seating them properly and accurately on the RH side of a Camaro subframe is certainly not a matter of getting a spirit level and string-line out to drill 3 holes and then going down to the Bolt-Bloke.
The other issue is the draglink. They need to be correct and draglinks can't simply be welded by a novice. They beed to be professionally welded, stress relieved, heat treated and x-rayed to show that they will not fail. That will cost you over $600 right there. A lot of load passes through draglinks (ever wonder why they are 1-1/8 inches thick?) and if they fail, you, your car and others will die as a result.

So, given your lack of room and possibly unwillingness to pull the subframe and start fabricating to accomodate a Saginaw, go for a rack & pinion. :)
You will still need to choose the right one and it still needs to be accurately fitted or you still will end up with issues. :)

[grubs]

How tight is the steering?


I run 2 inch primarys with plenty of room, though they were custom made. I couldn't see 2 1/4 being a problem either, if you are going big.

Yeah same 2 inch primary's, although custom made to fit they dont leave much room in the bay.

---------- Post added at 11:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:45 PM ----------

If you are thinking of a different steering box, I would be very careful of anything other than an "Australian delivery" RHD Saginaw.
Falcon and HQ boxes are popular but placing them in the "correct" location may involve some guess work and/or compromise in order to maintain the OE geometry and the mating of other parts.
Pitman arms are generally unique to their intended steering boxes and can have "included angles" that my make them do things that weren't intended. So, getting the Pitman arm in the right place may then require the box in a certain location that may alter the steering column angle and/or it's height.
The Saginaw boxes are exact mirror copies of the OE 1st Gen Camaro boxes and they are reliable and as strong as ever. Hugely popular with Jeep and Land Cruiser conversions. These are heavy cars that need steering power.
Problem.. They are bulky and seating them properly and accurately on the RH side of a Camaro subframe is certainly not a matter of getting a spirit level and string-line out to drill 3 holes and then going down to the Bolt-Bloke.
The other issue is the draglink. They need to be correct and draglinks can't simply be welded by a novice. They beed to be professionally welded, stress relieved, heat treated and x-rayed to show that they will not fail. That will cost you over $600 right there. A lot of load passes through draglinks (ever wonder why they are 1-1/8 inches thick?) and if they fail, you, your car and others will die as a result.

So, given your lack of room and possibly unwillingness to pull the subframe and start fabricating to accomodate a Saginaw, go for a rack & pinion. :)
You will still need to choose the right one and it still needs to be accurately fitted or you still will end up with issues. :)

I have had issues with the original set up, and that was the way it came when i purchased the vehicle (incorrect bolts used for fastening PS box to chassis rail is one example). BO Steve Im not sure if you are aware, but safety is paramount with me and I know that you can not take shortcuts, especially when it comes to steering. I am although looking at alternatives to my current set up, and thought I would throw it out there for any ideas. Manual rack and pinion is one possibilty. Ive seen this picture so many times especially in my line of work where cost casts a shadow over safety and unfortunately someone always ends up getting hurt, or worse. So I will be making sure that what ever path I choose for my steering it will be done correctly and will be certified.

[blackoutsteve]

Good to hear..;) My car when I bought it 1/2 converted many years ago had a drag link that was a home job. Not only was it illegal for very good reason, it was simply the worse piece of work I'd ever seen. They simply turned it over, heated it up to reverse the bends, then re-drilled the tie rod tapered holes in from the other side. This meant that the tie rods now had 1/2 the contact area within their holes (cross section now bow-tie shaped). The bending was extremely inaccurate and who knows what cracks were created and/or what the Rockwell ended up being. It was all so wrong that the thing handled like a row boat.
When I have said to people in the past that the drag link needs to be tested, treated and certified with a $600 price tag, the looks I get are "yeah, right".. I wonder how many home jobs are out there on the road. :o

I think a rack & pinion is the best way for you.
I was talking to a friend over the weekend and he has a rack in his 68 Camaro that he is extremely happy with.
It's a RHD rack that he bought it from American Online Imports.

[grubs]

Anyone know if a GM Type 2 or Saginaw power steering pump would be compatible with a power rack and pinion that say AOI sell?