View Full Version : it BEGINS
chevguy
24-04-2009, 05:19 PM
Hey guys,thought I would post some pics of the 69 before I tear it asunder..it is actually worse than in the pics:) http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0945.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0946.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0947.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0944.jpg Has had firewall fire and melted everything inside...guess it`s a firewall in name only :Dsorry bout the size,have`nt figured out the scaling thing.
USA-69Z
24-04-2009, 09:06 PM
Looks alright to me ... its a 69;)
Brake booster and rocker covers look a bit newer than rest of car ?
Lookin foward to watchin your progress.
Gav
AUSCAMARO
24-04-2009, 09:39 PM
Looks like a good base for a project!! Little bit of burnt stuff won't hurt it especially being inside, atleast it won't have warped panels being inside.
Do those rear quaters where they meet the rear valance usually have no seem on the 69's?
Mitch
USA-69Z
24-04-2009, 09:55 PM
Looks like a good base for a project!! Little bit of burnt stuff won't hurt it especially being inside, atleast it won't have warped panels being inside.
Do those rear quarters where they meet the rear valance usually have no seem on the 69's?
Mitch
No not usually , she'll have a coupla suprises :eek:
chevguy
25-04-2009, 07:58 AM
No not usually , she'll have a coupla suprises :eek:
1st move after disassembly starting today will be a trip to the soda blasters.Included with the car is a bootload of new weld in panels,doors etc. so now is the time to do it right.
454 NUTTR
25-04-2009, 08:22 AM
thats the best part pulling them down and seeing what u have good luck
Dicko
25-04-2009, 11:59 AM
Plenty of work ahead of you, have fun. :)
You mentioned Whitsundays in another post, you at prossy or mackay ?
With your post, you can go back in via the edit button.
Hit a new line (enter/return button) after the first line of text and after each picture. That will bring them vertically down the page.
chevguy
25-04-2009, 06:36 PM
Plenty of work ahead of you, have fun. :)
You mentioned Whitsundays in another post, you at prossy or mackay ?
With your post, you can go back in via the edit button.
Hit a new line (enter/return button) after the first line of text and after each picture. That will bring them vertically down the page.
Mackay, with my holiday place in midge point.Just got under the car an ripped out motor/gearbox etc...holy crapola there is some rust underneath:( I have most of the panels but have`nt seen that much rust since the last pics of the titanic. Not complaining tho as when it`s done there will be no chance of rust as I am replacing most of the car:) Stay positive and drink litres of wild turkey is my motto.
I would post pics but it`ll give ya bloody nightmares :)
Dicko
25-04-2009, 10:00 PM
I would post pics but it`ll give ya bloody nightmares :)
no fear from us,, post away. :D
good job fixing the other pics too.
AUSCAMARO
25-04-2009, 10:01 PM
I would post pics but it`ll give ya bloody nightmares :)
Don't be shy, chuck them up as we all like to how much work is ahead of us...
Mitch
chevguy
25-04-2009, 10:10 PM
Don't be shy, chuck them up as we all like to how much work is ahead of us...
Mitch
Will try and post some pics of whats not there soon.Going for the trophy of worlds lightest 69:)
AUSCAMARO
25-04-2009, 10:11 PM
Will try and post some pics of whats not there soon.Going for the trophy of worlds lightest 69:)
My 68 would have been pretty light as well if it wasn't for all of the fibreglass they lined the floors with!!:eek:
Mitch
chevguy
27-04-2009, 03:38 PM
I am at that crutial stage of...is this really worth doing lol. Who would have thought buying a car sight unseen and thinking `how bad could it be` backfiring on ya.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0949.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0950.jpg
My personal favourite way of repairing the non-existent chassis
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0951.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0952.jpg
*rayman*
27-04-2009, 04:38 PM
Was this on ebay about 2 weeks ago? I have one saved in my watch list that looks very similiar to this.
chevguy
27-04-2009, 04:58 PM
Was this on ebay about 2 weeks ago? I have one saved in my watch list that looks very similiar to this.
Yup thats the one.Just to rub salt into the wounds the import papers that I have with the car are wrong,now trying to get a copy off dotir(think there called)but I am getting the feeling I`m screwed.
*rayman*
27-04-2009, 05:07 PM
Certainly looked a lot better in the photos of the ebay listing. Looks like the guy has refined the art of taking photos of something at the right angles to make appear better than it is.
Was that rear chassis rail repair exposed like that when you got it, or have you unearthed that repair?
You must have got a good deal on it though, in comparison to what else is out there.
Dont be disheartened, nothing throwing some money at it wont fix. :)
tonner
27-04-2009, 05:41 PM
Are you up to doing some of the panel your self? Its not rocket science, I am not a beater and I am replacing every panel on mine, the parts are pretty reasonable out of the States,freight can be expensive but look around.
Greg
chevguy
27-04-2009, 05:46 PM
Are you up to doing some of the panel your self? Its not rocket science, I am not a beater and I am replacing every panel on mine, the parts are pretty reasonable out of the States,freight can be expensive but look around.
Greg
Got a panel beater mate doing it. Chassis wasn`t shown in the photos and was hidden by crud in the boot. My main concern at the moment is this import paper thing. Without that piece of paper car can`t be registered.Must admit I bought it relatively cheap,can`t expect much for around 10k.
UPDATE: Importer just rang me and said they just found a copy of the original papers. wooohooo.The build goes on.
EAT-30T
27-04-2009, 08:06 PM
Oh man.. I feel for ya.. and I certainly know what it is like to buy a car sight unseen and then get sticked with a ****load of work that you never anticipated! Ya just gotta man up, step up to the plate and don't look back I guess?? :( I think alot of us have been through it true??
chevguy
27-04-2009, 08:13 PM
Oh man.. I feel for ya.. and I certainly know what it is like to buy a car sight unseen and then get sticked with a ****load of work that you never anticipated! Ya just gotta man up, step up to the plate and don't look back I guess?? :( I think alot of us have been through it true??
Yeah I am no stranger to resto`s,just sold my turbocharged rb30 ek wagon that I built from ground up.This is in a whole new category of WTF tho:) I don`t care though now I know the rego thing is sorted.
Dicko
27-04-2009, 08:24 PM
That rear sub frame repair is a shocker.
Depending on how far you want to go with it, maybe look at one of the bolt in rear subs with a coil over set up from the states. You turf the leaves alltogether. There's a few different ones around. Slip around the couple of US forums like protouring & Lat G. Depending on the damage, some bolt into the existing sub, some like the art morrison one replace the existing frame rails.
chevguy
27-04-2009, 08:53 PM
That rear sub frame repair is a shocker.
Depending on how far you want to go with it, maybe look at one of the bolt in rear subs with a coil over set up from the states. You turf the leaves alltogether. There's a few different ones around. Slip around the couple of US forums like protouring & Lat G. Depending on the damage, some bolt into the existing sub, some like the art morrison one replace the existing frame rails.
I already have 2 new subframes included with the car,i was toying with the idea of running coilovers in the same place the shocks are,dunno how pratical it would be.On the left side there is no frame left Im afraid
EAT-30T
27-04-2009, 08:53 PM
This is in a whole new category of WTF tho
They were my thoughts exactly when I got mine down to bare meta :eek: l... lol I don't think anything can prepare you for some of the cars that have been subject to some of the weather elements the USA can offer... lol you should have seen the pic's of one I bought over from Minnesota few years back.... FML
chevguy
27-04-2009, 08:54 PM
They were my thoughts exactly when I got mine down to bare meta :eek: l... lol I don't think anything can prepare you for some of the cars that have been subject to some of the weather elements the USA can offer... lol you should have seen the pic's of one I bought over from Minnesota few years back.... FML
Scary thing is...I havn`t had it blasted yet:eek:
AUSCAMARO
28-04-2009, 12:03 AM
WOW, I thought mine was pretty bad. Good price you got it for though..
Mitch
chevguy
16-05-2009, 09:49 PM
Just got the shell back from the soda blaster, any market out there for a 2 tonne collander:D . Had my beater come around,all I need to replace are both quarters,roof panel,both sills,complete trunk lining,complete floor panel,whole cowl panel assy and the firewall. Elko performance are gonna love me Monday:)
blackoutsteve
16-05-2009, 10:25 PM
Have you done the math on re-sheet-metalling this car compared to buying a Dynacorn body?
chevguy
16-05-2009, 10:38 PM
Have you done the math on re-sheet-metalling this car compared to buying a Dynacorn body?
Yeh thought about it, but the price seems to be around 17k for the dynacorn one.All these panels will cost me around 4-5k. IF I knew how bad it was before I shelled over the 2k for the sodablasting and 1k odd for the new floor then the dynacorn would have definately been on the table.
454 NUTTR
16-05-2009, 10:45 PM
2k for soda blasting gee
blackoutsteve
16-05-2009, 10:47 PM
In all honesty, I reckon you're going to spend at least $10K having those panels fitted.
chevguy
16-05-2009, 10:59 PM
In all honesty, I reckon you're going to spend at least $10K having those panels fitted.
Yup got screwed on the blasting,crap job as well...yay for living in mackay,sunny one day bent over the next. You are probably close with the panels fit price steve but it`s one of those things that when you have already started you have to factor in that cost as well.The fellow doing the panels is pretty highly regarded for being podantic and I know him reasonably well, so I rekon it`s going to end up costing around 15-17k painted. If you know any other of the importers who bring in new shells it would be good to know for price comparison, as I can only find ponti-worlds listing of them .
Ta Ken.
blackoutsteve
16-05-2009, 11:05 PM
Mate, I know the position you're in. I've been deep in there with my car for many years when I first bought it.
Shane in Canberra has containers coming in and they get loaded near Rick's in Georgia I think..
Maybe give him a call..
Have his number?
chevguy
17-05-2009, 03:20 PM
Mate, I know the position you're in. I've been deep in there with my car for many years when I first bought it.
Shane in Canberra has containers coming in and they get loaded near Rick's in Georgia I think..
Maybe give him a call..
Have his number?
Nah I don`t. I am pretty sure I will be fixing this shell anyway thanks mate, so I won`t annoy him.
blackoutsteve
17-05-2009, 04:12 PM
Cool.. :cool: Food for thought. ;)
Nev68
17-05-2009, 04:33 PM
In all honesty, I reckon you're going to spend at least $10K having those panels fitted.
I think $10K might be conservative.
Panels look reasoably priced when you're trying to do the sums but labour is a killer on these jobs.
Nev
chevguy
17-05-2009, 09:36 PM
I think $10K might be conservative.
Panels look reasoably priced when you're trying to do the sums but labour is a killer on these jobs.
Nev
Waiting on my panel guy to ring soon,want to grille him on a close estimate of doing the firewall back.If this price is within 4-5k including cost of the panels plus the labour involved, I am now leaning towards a new body.Here`s a question... if you weld in a few panels of the old car(just food for thought:D )what % of replacing a turret assy technically constitutes a new car not a rebuilt one????Considering I have to replace 90% of all panels from the firewall back(including the firewall,I`m not exaggerating I`m afraid) and one side of the chassis.
Dicko
17-05-2009, 09:43 PM
Mate, for rego purposes you only need the VIN numbers on the vehicle to match your import paper work.......
69camaro
17-05-2009, 10:24 PM
Mate, for rego purposes you only need the VIN numbers on the vehicle to match your import paper work.......
I agree with Dicko. The repro shells are intended to be used as a replacement. Not sure how our authorities handle reshelling though. If someone was to go that route 'hypothetically', probably best not to discuss details on a public forum.
Oh yeah, point to remember is the hidden vin, not just the one on the dash and the ID plates ;)
blackoutsteve
17-05-2009, 10:44 PM
Just put the VIN & Trim tags on the new body and say nothing to those rego boneheads about it. ;)
Wink, wink, nudge, nudge, say no more.:D
PS, I had the quarter and tail panel fitted, some filler and repairs here & there, undercoat and a painted floorpan and that was 100 hours.
Time adds up damn fast.
Lucky I paid a fair hourly rate, but I still didn't get much change out of $5K and that was just 2 panels.
S[_]SPECT
17-05-2009, 10:57 PM
Time adds up damn fast.
Absolutely, to have all that fitted, I reakon you'll be lucky to get change out of 25K all done.. unless your getting a real good price on labour..
Thats a hell of alot of panels to fit.. the only cheap options would be to do most of it yourself like tonner is .. http://www.usmuscle.com.au/Forum/showthread.php?t=2177
otherwise prepare to haemorrhage cash..
A rebody isnt going to be much cheaper though.. its still 15K USD plus shipping and fees, and then you still have to have body works done... Just less of it..
Might be worth talking to the guys at musclecarfactory.com.au if you're considering this though.. since they've done it..
chevguy
18-05-2009, 07:16 AM
I agree with Dicko. The repro shells are intended to be used as a replacement. Not sure how our authorities handle reshelling though. If someone was to go that route 'hypothetically', probably best not to discuss details on a public forum.
Oh yeah, point to remember is the hidden vin, not just the one on the dash and the ID plates ;)
Oh this is all purely hypothetical,could never bring myself to do something illegal or immoral;) You mean the hidden one on the firewall under the heater assy?
Dicko
18-05-2009, 10:18 AM
Oh this is all purely hypothetical,could never bring myself to do something illegal or immoral;) You mean the hidden one on the firewall under the heater assy?
It's not actually illegal or Immoral, (well from what I can see). You're just restoring a vehicle that you already own. The fact that 'most' of it is being replaced during that restoration is irrelevant. It's a different story if you're creating something out of nothing, or rebirthing a stolen car or something.
With that being said, I still wouldn't make a big thing out of it with QLD transport. They wouldn't understand & would make you jump through a million hoops............., purely because they don't understand. lol In fact they don't even have to know. There is no where in the rego process that those type of questions even come up. Anyway, even replacing the firewall & associated panels etc on the original car you'd be restamping the numbers over anyway.. what's the difference ?
I would destroy the original vin numbers on the donor vehicle, just on the remote chance many years down the track somebody tried to bring the old body back to life. Legally it doesn't exist anymore.
Speaking of creating something out of nothing, I was very close to building a rod a few years ago, before I swayed back over to the muscle car choice. :D
I researched it heavily. Under the pre '48 rod rules, you can create a car out of nothing. I could have built a 34 chev for example, without having a donor vehicle, or without using anything from a 34 chev other than it's basic shape.
The chassis etc is allowed to be a 'reproduction of the original' and you get issued a chassis number,, etc, etc. There are several reproduction glass bodies to choose from, wack it all together and you have a legal 34 chev, registered as a 34 chev. Some of the purists frown on it, but it's widely done.
69camaro
18-05-2009, 12:48 PM
Oh this is all purely hypothetical,could never bring myself to do something illegal or immoral;) You mean the hidden one on the firewall under the heater assy?
Yep that's the one. 'Hypothetically' you could cut these out and neatly weld them into a legally obtained reproduction replacement shell.........:D
chevguy
18-05-2009, 01:47 PM
Yep that's the one. 'Hypothetically' you could cut these out and neatly weld them into a legally obtained reproduction replacement shell.........:D
OK after much politician worthy backflipping I have decided which way to go...will be completely rebuilding my shell,here a few reasons that swayed me.
1. I know it`s silly but if I get the new shell I feel like I would have a kit car not a genuine camaro (I know the irony of still replacing all the panels:confused: )
2.Apparently the new shells have gone up to around 22k now landed in the country plus probably another 1k to deliver it up to me.
3. From previous experience with cars, somewhere,somehow the transport dept. would smell my fear and uncover the fact it`s a dynacorn body:D
blackoutsteve
18-05-2009, 08:17 PM
Well done on your decision and best of luck getting it together.
Wow, AU$22K landed for a body?? That's deadly.
..I would destroy the original vin numbers on the donor vehicle, just on the remote chance many years down the track somebody tried to bring the old body back to life. Legally it doesn't exist anymore.
Why?
If you destroy the VIN, you'll have no proof that you it's your VIN.
Legally it won't exist because it's not registered here anyway, but at least it's yours.
Preserve the VIN and keep it in a safe place. Because who knows, one day you might just get a Dynacorn.
Never say never.
RAW454
18-05-2009, 08:23 PM
Damn, dude. Some bloody big calls ahead (but also immeasurable satisfaction when done). Suddenly stuff like annoyance about my tyre folding the rear guard lip 90-degrees the wrong way last night just vanishes into utter insignificance...
Heaps of luck Ken & be sure to let me know if can help out in any form in the future from down Mexico-way... Even if just running around for a part or whatever. I have SO much respect for all you blokes on here building the unbuildable. Keep it up!!
chevguy
18-05-2009, 08:28 PM
Damn, dude. Some bloody big calls ahead (but also immeasurable satisfaction when done). Suddenly stuff like annoyance about my tyre folding the rear guard lip 90-degrees the wrong way last night just vanishes into utter insignificance...
Heaps of luck Ken & be sure to let me know if can help out in any form in the future from down Mexico-way... Even if just running around for a part or whatever. I have SO much respect for all you blokes on here building the unbuildable. Keep it up!!
Ta mate,Now the long wait for the panel beater to start so I can start doing up the front end etc while it`s on the rotisserie,Have a new shed being built in a week or 2 so at least I will be fitting it out properly now with no distractions.9 by 8 with a hoist and lots of powerpoints and lights so it will help in the build.
cluxford
18-05-2009, 09:10 PM
my tyre folding the rear guard lip 90-degrees the wrong way last night just vanishes into utter insignificance...
Please Explain !
AUSCAMARO
18-05-2009, 09:28 PM
ICV anyone?
Dicko
18-05-2009, 10:08 PM
Why?
If you destroy the VIN, you'll have no proof that you it's your VIN.
Legally it won't exist because it's not registered here anyway, but at least it's yours.
Preserve the VIN and keep it in a safe place. Because who knows, one day you might just get a Dynacorn.
Never say never.
yeah, you're right. I was thinking more along the lines of stamping the numbers onto a dynacorn and destroy the old ones instead of just dumping the body, but yes cut them out & keep.
or better still, cut them out & weld into the dynacorn. At least that way as far as rego's concerned (if it ever came up) you can say you still have the original body, it was just so stuffed you've had to replace everything except the 2 6' x 2' pieces of metal with the vin numbers stamped on them. :D
RAW454
18-05-2009, 11:41 PM
Please Explain !
No biggie & will keep full scoop off this thread - Lack of clearance with new rear setup meant tyre hit the lip so hard it grabbed & somehow bent 2" worth into a folded U shape, so the 'sharp' edge was facing outward. Odd. Getting rolled on Thurs stopp rubbing. Paint stuffed etc, but again, nothing compared to these REAL challenges :)
chevguy
20-05-2009, 04:39 PM
Thought I would give you guys a laugh,even the engine in this thing is not what it was supposed to be. Bought it being told oh it`s definately a 350, just ran the numbers and it is a 307 rofl.I claim the right to be that bloke when something goes wrong with one of your cars,you can say, at least it`s not as bad as ken`s:) No biggie really as I am not going to use it just pretty funny overall.
Thought I would give you guys a laugh,even the engine in this thing is not what it was supposed to be. Bought it being told oh it`s definately a 350, just ran the numbers and it is a 307 rofl.I claim the right to be that bloke when something goes wrong with one of your cars,you can say, at least it`s not as bad as ken`s:) No biggie really as I am not going to use it just pretty funny overall.
excuse my ignorance, but what numbers did you run and who did you run them with?
chevguy
20-05-2009, 05:29 PM
excuse my ignorance, but what numbers did you run and who did you run them with?
The one`s stamped on the block at the back,googled a chev i.d. engine site and it said it was a 2 bolt 307 from 72 i think the year was.3970024 is what mine is stamped.http://www.tracyvette.com/blockssb.html
69camaro
20-05-2009, 05:58 PM
excuse my ignorance, but what numbers did you run and who did you run them with?
JJ, there are quite a few sources of info on the net aswell as books. The three pieces of information you need are:
1. Casting number which is usually between 6 and 8 digits cast into the rear of the block, behind the drivers side (LHD) head just above where the gearbox/bellhousing bolts up. Digits are about 10mm or so high.
2. Date code which should be on the block next to the distributor.
3. Engine number and suffix code. The suffix code is the last few letters of the engine number which is a stamped number on a machined pad on the block just in front of your RH head (or LH if you're looking at the engine from the front). This may not tell you anything as it's common for them to be removed/decked or re punched but if it is the factory number it will tell you what plant it came out of, the day and year of manufacture and what type of vehicle it was originally in.
If you pull off your rocker covers, your heads will have both a casting number and date code aswell (unless aftermarket alloy). If you have factory cast exhaust manifolds these will have the info too. In fact most parts from this era will atleast have a part number which you can check. I've got a whole book of them at home 'chev by the numbers'.....
chevguy
26-05-2009, 06:42 PM
Couple of post blast and a new wheel,Thought I had a new qrtr already fitted,looks like I did it.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0977.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0978-1.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0979-1.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0980-1.jpg Rust in the roof couldn`t be removed without warping the panel .
cluxford
26-05-2009, 06:46 PM
wow I have ZERO panel / metal working skills but even I reckon I coulda done a better bodgy on that qtr panel
At least when it is done you will be proud you saved this one !
chevguy
26-05-2009, 08:01 PM
wow I have ZERO panel / metal working skills but even I reckon I coulda done a better bodgy on that qtr panel
At least when it is done you will be proud you saved this one !
Yup I must say I am a car fanatic so it does feel kind of good to rescue a car that belongs in the tip.
blackoutsteve
26-05-2009, 08:12 PM
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0978-1.jpg
Ouch! :(
AUSCAMARO
26-05-2009, 08:28 PM
WOW... I thought my quaters were dodgy. Mine just weren't attached at the bottom properly...
Dicko
26-05-2009, 08:40 PM
Did you get those wheels from Leahys on the Gold Coast ?
chevguy
26-05-2009, 08:46 PM
Did you get those wheels from Leahys on the Gold Coast ?
yup,got him to cut the 17 by 8`s to 7`s as I hate front tyres scrubbing and the backs are 18 by 10`s
chevguy
22-06-2009, 02:34 PM
I`m not going to put pics up of every small thing I do in the build but I thought I would post this one as it`s the 1st thing I have put back together:) Whole car concept I am going for is sort of retro muscle,well at least my idea of it.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0994.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0995.jpg
Deadwood
22-06-2009, 11:19 PM
I dont get why in the states they often seem to fit part of a 1/4 panel. When we used to put new quarters on it was window out unpick factory seams put whole panel on . That way the only filler was up near factory lead wipe off roof? I guess theres less to strip down the way theyve done it but it would have buckled for sure when they welded it on i reckon . plenty of bog required.
RAW454
22-06-2009, 11:33 PM
Trick dash! Tough, industrial yet slick 'Retro Terminator' feel about it... ;-)
chevguy
23-06-2009, 07:56 AM
Tossing up whether to get a fine engraved line(those panels are 3mm aluminium) round the outside of the panels to give it a little more feature. Don`t want to stuff it as man that wrinkle finish is a mother to get uniform,would prefer not to make them again.
chevguy
23-06-2009, 07:58 AM
I dont get why in the states they often seem to fit part of a 1/4 panel. When we used to put new quarters on it was window out unpick factory seams put whole panel on . That way the only filler was up near factory lead wipe off roof? I guess theres less to strip down the way theyve done it but it would have buckled for sure when they welded it on i reckon . plenty of bog required.
Yeah there was bondo by the truckload covering those dodgy panels,ironically as you say that panel they butchered was actually a new panel.
cluxford
23-06-2009, 07:59 AM
That engraved line would that "join the dots" of the screws holding the panels in? If so I think that would look awesome. Love the concept but the screws look out of place, I think they would look better black, or a silver line between them making a border.
Coming along though and that will look sweet in the car, always liked the 69 dash
chevguy
23-06-2009, 09:28 AM
That engraved line would that "join the dots" of the screws holding the panels in? If so I think that would look awesome. Love the concept but the screws look out of place, I think they would look better black, or a silver line between them making a border.
Coming along though and that will look sweet in the car, always liked the 69 dash
I went for the stainless cap heads to give it that industrial type look,the panels are actually sika-flexed on so the bolts were`nt technically need.It`s one of those things that no matter how much you go over it in your head it`s hard to get the full impression unless you build it. I agree about the line thing as I think it needs that little extra to tie it together.Cheers for the comments.
chevguy
27-08-2009, 05:45 PM
Couple of updates
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1055.jpg the dse tubs
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1056.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1058.jpg Subframe connectors
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1061.jpg the 9 inch(locker center 31 spline) with commodore brakes...see commodores are good for something.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1063.jpg nothing flash with the front end,just all new gear and big swaybar.
Ended up buying another shell that needed far less work,so at least I got a few spares now.
WILD68
27-08-2009, 05:53 PM
Couple of updates
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1056.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1058.jpg Subframe connectors
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1060.jpg the 9 inch with commodore brakes...see commodores are good for something.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1063.jpg nothing flash with the front end,just all new gear and big swaybar.
Looking good mate, youve fairly got stuck into hey.. i need some of your motivation.. and money:D
chevguy
27-08-2009, 06:02 PM
I had a fair bit of cash put aside from selling my last streeter,buying all the bits and another shell has dented it a fair bit now though:p
EAT-30T
27-08-2009, 06:03 PM
Ended up buying another shell that needed far less work,so at least I got a few spares now.
deadset? lol
*rayman*
27-08-2009, 06:14 PM
EAT-30T - deadset? lol
Is there something you're not telling us EAT-30T ? I'm guessing you must have hooked him up with it?
blackoutsteve
27-08-2009, 06:14 PM
Those subframe connectors look interesting.. Have you gat a better pic or a web-link for them?
Also, what size sway bar did you get?
*rayman*
27-08-2009, 06:15 PM
Chevguy - What bits do you have spare now?
chevguy
27-08-2009, 07:16 PM
Those subframe connectors look interesting.. Have you gat a better pic or a web-link for them?
Also, what size sway bar did you get?
I will post a better pic for you in the next day or so steve,they do go up through the floor for a short run, but as you will see when done neatly you wouldn`t even look twice at them.Oh and the 1st thing we did was read the dse instructions,2nd was to bin them lol,their cutout templates were way excessive.Swaybar measures at 24.5mm so I take it it must be 1".
Rayman , I have a tonne of new panels(was gonna use them on the old shell)as well as original bonnets,boot etc but I`m afraid miles(thunder427)has already put his hand up for the stuff I don`t use.The bits an pieces I will keep handy till I complete the car.
blackoutsteve
27-08-2009, 07:39 PM
I considered installing connectors through the floor, but my sheetmetal is too nice to cut and unless they're welded at both ends (to the subframe & rear rails) the rigidity is not hugely better than bolt-ins.. so I am told.
Nice size bar too. Do you still have the 11/16"? Turn it up-side-down and they make a good rear sway bar, but you'll need to fab your own brackets. It's exactly what the Penske racing team did on their Z28s.
25.4 = 1" ;)
chevguy
27-08-2009, 09:12 PM
I considered installing connectors through the floor, but my sheetmetal is too nice to cut and unless they're welded at both ends (to the subframe & rear rails) the rigidity is not hugely better than bolt-ins.. so I am told.
Nice size bar too. Do you still have the 11/16"? Turn it up-side-down and they make a good rear sway bar, but you'll need to fab your own brackets. It's exactly what the Penske racing team did on their Z28s.
25.4 = 1" ;)
I bought a new rear sway as well,may not use it yet as I am thinking about going to an overhead torque adjustable unit that a fella has on his torana here,still investigating it. You are right about the connectors,this kit is actually a full weld in,still won`t exactly make it like a full chassis but will definately help to a degree,as well as it will stop the front chassis rails walking around on the mounts under torque..
69camaro
27-08-2009, 11:21 PM
So what's the story on the new shell and why is this the first we are hearing about it :D :D . Got any pics??
chevguy
28-08-2009, 07:46 AM
So what's the story on the new shell and why is this the first we are hearing about it :D :D . Got any pics??
It all started when EVERY panel on the original had some form of rust and my panel beater said it would be at least 8 months to repair it(2 years real people time:p ),found this shell that only needed a couple of repairs(was done a couple of years ago)bloke lost his job and interest, so bit the bullet an forked out more than I paid for the original whole car:(. Didn`t bother posting about it till I made some inroads on the build and quite frankly a bit p`off on how bad I got stung on the original.Cars going back on it`s wheels today,then it`s time to push the hell out of my beater to get firewall sheeted,gaps tidied up and a coat of colour.Anyhoo here we are:D
chevguy
28-08-2009, 12:31 PM
Pics of the installed connectors
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1064.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1065.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1066.jpg
Nev68
28-08-2009, 09:07 PM
Pics of the installed connectors
So do you have to put a board or something on the rear floor when you do the carpet?
chevguy
28-08-2009, 10:56 PM
So do you have to put a board or something on the rear floor when you do the carpet?
In the sales spiel it says the factory carpet will cover it fine.Doesn`t really worry me too much about a lump in the floor in the back,my feet can`t reach the pedals from back there anyway.:p
chevguy
30-10-2009, 07:18 PM
Quick update on some photos, it`s a bit hard to capture the pearl effect on camera. Not a bad job but found a few hard to get at spots that need touching up. All in all, pretty good job.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1144.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1145.jpg Ghost stripes but again a bit hard to capture on film
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1147.jpg
Nev68
30-10-2009, 09:55 PM
Quick update on some photos, it`s a bit hard to capture the pearl effect on camera. Not a bad job but found a few hard to get at spots that need touching up. All in all, pretty good job.
Looks the goods.
A splash of the shiny stuff (bumpers etc) should set that blue off nicely.
USA-69Z
30-10-2009, 10:56 PM
thats a real nice colour combo...i love that met blue ...What rims are going on her?
AUSCAMARO
30-10-2009, 11:57 PM
Gee. She's come along way in a short time!! Looking sweet!
Nice.. the ghost stripes are going to ping out in the sun, really like it!
WILD68
31-10-2009, 12:46 AM
Nice will look sweet as with the chrome on, will bring that paint out 10X more, what wheels is it going to cop?
chevguy
31-10-2009, 06:44 AM
Nice will look sweet as with the chrome on, will bring that paint out 10X more, what wheels is it going to cop?
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0977.jpg
Boyd Coddington slayers....18x10 rears,17x7 fronts, waiting on the nitto 555`s to turn up from the states 295/45/18,225/40/17. Want this car reasonably low so didn`t go nuts on the widths as i hate scrubbing.Not a fan of the low low profile tyres so had god awful trouble trying to find decent sidewall tyres.
Got a ton of gear coming from the states from Ricks first gen(seal kit etc), new bumpers turned up yesterday, new iditit column coming from matt`s classic bowties and painless wiring kit from summit.I have been busy while the car has been into the painters, well my credit card has :)
USA-69Z
31-10-2009, 07:27 AM
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_0977.jpg
Boyd Coddington slayers....18x10 rears,17x7 fronts, waiting on the nitto 555`s to turn up from the states 295/45/18,225/40/17. Want this car reasonably low so didn`t go nuts on the widths as i hate scrubbing.Not a fan of the low low profile tyres so had god awful trouble trying to find decent sidewall tyres.
Got a ton of gear coming from the states from Ricks first gen(seal kit etc), new bumpers turned up yesterday, new iditit column coming from matt`s classic bowties and painless wiring kit from summit.I have been busy while the car has been into the painters, well my credit card has :)
What rear tub work have you done to fit those reaR tires? ...tires - we are pretty limited here with 18 inch tire sizes
Gav
chevguy
31-10-2009, 07:56 AM
What rear tub work have you done to fit those reaR tires? ...tires - we are pretty limited here with 18 inch tire sizes
Gav
DSE minitubs, yeah I didnt want to go 20`s and 18`s as I heard the ride was ordinary, thought 18`s would be plentiful and they kinda are if you want 30 series tyres.
AUSCAMARO
04-11-2009, 11:28 PM
Wholly snap... They're different..
chevguy
05-11-2009, 05:05 PM
Wholly snap... They're different..
lol different i take it means they`re not your 1st choice:p Just sent car back to the painters, missed colour and clear in too many places to accept...1 step forward at least 2 steps back.
AUSCAMARO
06-11-2009, 12:55 AM
lol different i take it means they`re not your 1st choice:p Just sent car back to the painters, missed colour and clear in too many places to accept...1 step forward at least 2 steps back.
Nah, I actually like them.. Different as in not what everyone else has...
I'd like to see em on the car. I rekon they would like pretty tuff!!
Spewing about the paint!
18htan
06-11-2009, 10:22 AM
Oh that sucks about the paint!
So close, yet so far away!
chevguy
07-11-2009, 08:01 AM
Thanks guys, I tried to convince myself the mistakes in the paint were`nt car killing, but it would have annoyed the bajeezus out of me and makes you lose that little bit of pride in the car so I had no choice. just happy I come to the realisation as I was putting the grille and bumpers on not after.
chevguy
13-12-2009, 04:47 PM
Hey guys, few updates, all brake system finished, column in, windows all fitted and working(aren`t they a peach to get right) marquez park lights, fesler door vents ,modified the grille, motor and box turns up tuesday. In the next few weeks the dual stainless 3 " exhaust will be finished and the drop tank. Interior gets done on jan 15, all going well i hope to have it on the road by the end of Feb. Now that I have said that I am sure anybody that I am getting work done will push my stuff to the rear of their sheds:p
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1161.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1162.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1163.jpg
OldIndian
13-12-2009, 05:17 PM
.... you mentioned early in the posting about being screwed by not having a correct Import Permit.. how did you go with that... I can't spot it mentioned.
The progress looks great btw.. great effort for just 8 months.. takes many of us a lot longer then that. Well done Chevguy,
chevguy
13-12-2009, 08:58 PM
.... you mentioned early in the posting about being screwed by not having a correct Import Permit.. how did you go with that... I can't spot it mentioned.
The progress looks great btw.. great effort for just 8 months.. takes many of us a lot longer then that. Well done Chevguy,
Thanks bud,correct import papers were found by the person who actually imported the car and they sent me the originals, photocopied 3 copies, scanned it onto my computer and laminated one other copy, should be safe now :), Been spending 4-6hrs a day on the car(own my own buisness) and buckets of fast dwindling money. I am a bit of a fanatic when I get a project, hate waiting unduely.
USA-69Z
13-12-2009, 10:11 PM
Youv chosen a real nice colour ...any stripes on there ? sittin' a bit lower with the donk in and she's gunna look killer. and its a 69 too which IS a bonus :p
chevguy
14-12-2009, 05:53 AM
Youv chosen a real nice colour ...any stripes on there ? sittin' a bit lower with the donk in and she's gunna look killer. and its a 69 too which IS a bonus :p
Black ghost stripes, Going to tickle it`s stance when everything is in to get it right.
67cammy
14-12-2009, 06:43 AM
all going well i hope to have it on the road by the end of Feb.
Wow, that is a REALLY quick build! Puts my six years to shame. Love the colour. Paint turned out really nice. Good one :)
67SS502
08-01-2010, 06:23 PM
chevguy can i ask where u got your 502 from and how much?
chevguy
10-01-2010, 09:11 AM
chevguy can i ask where u got your 502 from and how much?
Geezers garage in the gold coast, got it for 11700 I think it was.Can`t complain on the price.
Bit of an update again, 502 installed, 3" dual stainless system fabricated by a mate and running through the beaver panel, cut down a hq monaro console and modded to fit with the megashifter.Installed the gm serpentine kit.
Made me laugh, all my weiand, powermaster etc etc performance gear I got has made in china on it, the cast iron stock serpentine kit is made in the U.S.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1167-1.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1164.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1165.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1166.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1170.jpg
Ride height at the front is a bit more acceptable now and will settle another 1/2" odd :)
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1172.jpg
Dammit I am getting cluxfords disease , the 295`s look way to thin now.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1171.jpg
Twisted67
10-01-2010, 09:20 AM
Geee you dont muck around building a car do you??:D
Lookin real nice congrats on the build and look forward to the interior pics (next month?):cool:
chevguy
10-01-2010, 09:29 AM
Geee you dont muck around building a car do you??:D
Lookin real nice congrats on the build and look forward to the interior pics (next month?):cool:
don`t laugh, goes in for wiring Wednesday and hopefully a week later for the interior lol.
Twisted67
10-01-2010, 09:31 AM
Awesome!!!!
tonner
10-01-2010, 10:08 AM
Looking great and moving way to fast, it's putting the rest of us to shame.
Greg
USA-69Z
10-01-2010, 11:12 AM
THe exhaust looks real nice under there... 295s??? i only got 275s :o
Looks fantastic mate.. will be a sweet ride
Gav
RAW454
01-04-2010, 09:27 AM
Any updates Ken? Or just been stuck with trimmers/sparkys? Was hammering along so well...
chevguy
02-04-2010, 07:58 AM
Any updates Ken? Or just been stuck with trimmers/sparkys? Was hammering along so well...
Upholsterer did`nt even really start and leccy didn`t finish, got the car home now and fitted door trims,carpets all the seat belts myself. Went into the upholsterer and for the 4th time promised me the seats would be done by next week. Spoke to his worker that is doing mine and he said he does`nt even know how the rear seat is supposed to be chopped(due to the tubs) even though the car was sitting in there for 3 weeks, for mainly that reason.:confused: Took the seats home yesterday and chopped and mig`d them myself so no excuses for next week or heads are really gonna roll. Noticed the bypass regulator for a return to tank fuel system I ordered is actually a non bypass unit, thank god I noticed that before fitting it,I ordered a 12-803bp and it came as a 12-803. Then the guys I bought it off argued that it really could be used as that,absolute b-**** was the term I think I used, so waiting on that too. Fitted the nearly finished drop tank but it looked god ugly due to being too deep so redesigned a new one and it`s getting done. It has to fit between the exhausts coming up through the beaver so width is limited.Wound the car over on the starter and that was dumb....really keen to get it fired now:)
AUSCAMARO
02-04-2010, 02:26 PM
Far out... Even with all of your holdups it's moving along at a rapid rate of knots... Well Done..
chevguy
23-04-2010, 04:16 PM
Just about done to registration stage now, waiting on the engineer to send mod plate then rego time. Still heaps to do as there always is like boot carpets, finish headliner off properly etc etc but they can all be done on the road .Pictures aren`t the best damn sun has gone on holidays up here.
The interior(still needs detailing)
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1236.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1237.jpg
Alloy drop tank that is made to accomodate the exhausts, fully gusseted/baffled internals.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1239.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1240.jpg
Semi completed car:)
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1234.jpg
tonner
23-04-2010, 05:34 PM
Looks awesome Ken, good luck with the rego.
Greg
chevguy
26-04-2010, 09:33 AM
Thinking about painting the drop tank matt black as I hate polishing and the frosted finish does tend to get dirty, what do you guys rekon?. Just not sure if it will look better being semi hidden or noticeable.
USA-69Z
26-04-2010, 10:39 AM
Thinking about painting the drop tank matt black as I hate polishing and the frosted finish does tend to get dirty, what do you guys rekon?. Just not sure if it will look better being semi hidden or noticeable.
Leave it until your regoed and see how you feel about it..If you keep looking at it and it pisses you off , paint it then.
AUSCAMARO
26-04-2010, 05:23 PM
Man, you move fast!! Looking great now that it's all together...
cluxford
26-04-2010, 06:19 PM
Ken, have you gone for rego yet ?
Car is looking great, can we see some more interior pics, love to see how that HQ console looks when all upholstered
chevguy
26-04-2010, 06:38 PM
No rego yet waiting on engineer to send mod plate. Will post better pictures all round shortly when I can get a good location and sunshine
blackoutsteve
26-04-2010, 06:45 PM
Thinking about painting the drop tank matt black as I hate polishing and the frosted finish does tend to get dirty, what do you guys rekon?. Just not sure if it will look better being semi hidden or noticeable.
Me? I'd paint it. Hide it.
Personally, I can't stand drop-tanks.. Toranas are about the only car I don't mind them on because I'm so used to seeing them on them. ..and having said that, if I owned a Torana, I'd never fit one.
chevguy
26-04-2010, 07:52 PM
Me? I'd paint it. Hide it.
Personally, I can't stand drop-tanks.. Toranas are about the only car I don't mind them on because I'm so used to seeing them on them. ..and having said that, if I owned a Torana, I'd never fit one.
Unfortunately with the pipes running through the beaver and the mini tubs the tank was more done for a purpose of clearance rather than looks, I actually designed it to be as shallow as possible so not to see too much, which is why i scrapped the first one as it was too low.I am leaning towards the black though as I do like a cleaner look from the back, thanks for the opinion guys it really does help to hear other points of view when your tossing up.
blackoutsteve
26-04-2010, 07:57 PM
Nothing against function or the need to make a dropped-tank.. I just think they really take away from the nice look of the rear.
Kinda like a babe with a sexy arse and a tramp-stamp. :p:D
AUSCAMARO
26-04-2010, 11:11 PM
Thinking about painting the drop tank matt black as I hate polishing and the frosted finish does tend to get dirty, what do you guys rekon?. Just not sure if it will look better being semi hidden or noticeable.
Would look sweet if you could anodise it in black?
chevguy
27-04-2010, 07:17 AM
Would look sweet if you could anodise it in black?
Geez how much money do you think I have:D
AUSCAMARO
27-04-2010, 07:40 AM
Geez how much money do you think I have:D
You can get those coatings that look the same...
chevguy
19-05-2010, 09:02 PM
Went out to the dragstrip today as I thought it would make a nice backdrop
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1261.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1260.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1250.jpg
Here is the air intake I roughly threw together to try.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1246.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1271.jpg
The HQ center console
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1266-1.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1274-Copy.jpg See this photo... Things have changed in the last few hours as 10 mins after these photos were finished the engine spun a bearing and I have driven like a grandad for all of the 55 miles it has done F****N Crate motors.
skywalker
19-05-2010, 09:10 PM
I feel you M8, keep your chin up, your put a ton of work in that ride, you should be proud,:cool:
RAW454
19-05-2010, 10:43 PM
Things have changed in the last few hours as 10 mins after these photos were finished the engine spun a bearing and I have driven like a grandad for all of the 55 miles it has done F****N Crate motors. FARK! Can't believe it! :eek: What's the deal with crate motors?:confused: Was stunned when read Paul's RS thread about the total garbage his 502 came with (Post#175 onward (http://www.usmuscle.com.au/Forum/showthread.php?t=1643&page=12)) but figured his must have been a one-off 'Friday Assembly' or something. Wish I had better words of support Ken, but that just friggin sucks hardcore at the finishing line of all you've been through already.
But that major knee-to-the-groin aside, she's looking absolutely mint & with the donk fix can be setup bulletproof for years of satisfaction you can be ultra-proud of. Good luck with it all :)
---------- Post added at 09:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:41 PM ----------
PS - Was this under warranty or anything? ie - Replace or rebuild?
chevguy
20-05-2010, 06:53 AM
Was told send the whole motor back, he would pull it apart when he can to check it, consult with the company in the U.S then decide where we stand....in english it means I am gonna F***K you around till you get sick of it. Was going to upgrade HP in 12 months but guess I will be doing it now. Putting a better cam/springs, roller rockers and a air gap manifold and boosting the compression to around 11:1. Getting the whole thing line bored and all the correct machining process so like you said it will be a lot more bulletproof this time. Aiming for around 500 rwhp
cluxford
20-05-2010, 07:39 AM
Ken, that sucks. I know crates are a hit and miss. Mines being sitting for over 2 years already, I hope when we do fire it up I don't have similar issues.
I can tell you that most come with only a 12 month warranty only
ElectricOrange69
20-05-2010, 08:39 AM
Ouch - I feel for you mate. I went through your thread and noticed it was from Geezers. Is this one with the World block and if it is do you know who builds these (the motor not the block :) )?
cluxford
20-05-2010, 09:08 AM
PS - those pics look fricken awesome though...
AUSCAMARO
20-05-2010, 11:29 AM
God Damn Mother Faaarkers!!
Could be related to your overheating issues also maybe?
What a bugger!!
Pics do look good though!
chevguy
20-05-2010, 06:17 PM
God Damn Mother Faaarkers!!
Could be related to your overheating issues also maybe?
What a bugger!!
Pics do look good though!
Nah definately not from any heat issue, pulled it down today at a local motor rebuilders and no sign of any heat damage, something has gone through the oil and rooted every journal of the crank. At this stage I am not going to spend the money on rebuilding it as it needs too much.Spoke to the bloke I bought it off and he actually seems to be going to do the right thing, but I`ll keep you informed. Thanks for the kind words.
blackoutsteve
20-05-2010, 06:26 PM
Mines being sitting for over 2 years already
Backed off all the rockers and let the valves seat?
cluxford
20-05-2010, 07:05 PM
Yep, done all that..., also will be draining all the oil before hand cranking it a lot before we turn it over
blackoutsteve
21-05-2010, 06:30 AM
...something has gone through the oil and rooted every journal of the crank..
I'm a big fan of the stock oiling system, but their stupid f-ing filter-bypass on the filter adaptor cost me a complete rebuild when it allowed a piece of a broken circlip to head through into the mains. You can imagine the damage and how pissed off I was with the brand new lifter that lost it.
Those bypasses hang wide open when ever the oil is cold or when oil/rpm demands are high.
Block the bypass with a 3/8" npt plug, if you haven't already.
All filters have built in bypasses that open with a ~10psi pressure differential anyway, and all serious aftermarket filter adaptors don't have bypasses in them at all.
chevguy
21-05-2010, 06:57 AM
I'm a big fan of the stock oiling system, but their stupid f-ing filter-bypass on the filter adaptor cost me a complete rebuild when it allowed a piece of a broken circlip to head through into the mains. You can imagine the damage and how pissed off I was with the brand new lifter that lost it.
Those bypasses hang wide open when ever the oil is cold or when oil/rpm demands are high.
Block the bypass with a 3/8" npt plug, if you haven't already.
All filters have built in bypasses that open with a ~10psi pressure differential anyway, and all serious aftermarket filter adaptors don't have bypasses in them at all.
Yeah thanks Steve will keep that in mind. I am very dissapointed with the internals of this motor,internals in the zz502`s used to be a lot tougher with JE pistons, good rod bolts etc etc. This particular engine has budget basic rod bolts, KB pistons, Stock oil pump to name a few that I noticed. Going to see if the supplier will help with a rotating mass of my choice(probably a scat setup) and I will build the engine properly with good quality gear. Even if I get another one a new POS is still a POS.I would not enjoy the car I rekon waiting for one of the inferior parts to let go. So when I am finished it probably will be in the vicinity in dollars to the cheaper Shafiroff:( (Now there`s a lesson for you kiddies:D )
blackoutsteve
22-05-2010, 07:17 AM
I've noticed the parts list for some of the ZZ engines and see how they are cutting corners. GM used to forge their own non-twist steel cranks. I have one that I bought new in '97. Now they fit Chinese Scat cranks and Chinese Eagle rods and Chinese whatever else. Pretty sure that's what's going the 572s. Disappointing.
Also, is this ZZ502 a re-manufacture/rebuilt engine?
Although there is nothing wrong with the stock oil pump, assuming you mean a standard volume?, I am sure big blocks have only ever used high volume pumps in their zz engines. My '97 GM catalog lists 12555167 as the pump fitted. This is a HV pump with 1.3" gears. Standard GM/Mellings pumps are 1.14" and Mellings HV77 is 1.39".
Was it JE making GM's 12533507 forged pistons? That's the piston listed for the zz502/502.
No BB, even in the '05 catalog is fitted with cast pistons,but have a look though, KB do make forged pistons, so maybe they are, and of decent quality..?
chevguy
22-05-2010, 08:36 AM
I've noticed the parts list for some of the ZZ engines and see how they are cutting corners. GM used to forge their own non-twist steel cranks. I have one that I bought new in '97. Now they fit Chinese Scat cranks and Chinese Eagle rods and Chinese whatever else. Pretty sure that's what's going the 572s. Disappointing.
Also, is this ZZ502 a re-manufacture/rebuilt engine?
Although there is nothing wrong with the stock oil pump, assuming you mean a standard volume?, I am sure big blocks have only ever used high volume pumps in their zz engines. My '97 GM catalog lists 12555167 as the pump fitted. This is a HV pump with 1.3" gears. Standard GM/Mellings pumps are 1.14" and Mellings HV77 is 1.39".
Was it JE making GM's 12533507 forged pistons? That's the piston listed for the zz502/502.
No BB, even in the '05 catalog is fitted with cast pistons,but have a look though, KB do make forged pistons, so maybe they are, and of decent quality..?
Apparently the oil pump in this has a plastic locator, I think my engine rebuild guy said, and was not ideal in any way. The kb pistons are made out of cheese apparently, and only the black and gold brand at that.They are known to fail a bit. He actually rekons the scat gear is pretty reasonable quality and never seen any failure caused by them, eagle is another story according to him.
69coupe
23-05-2010, 08:38 AM
Yeah thanks Steve will keep that in mind. I am very dissapointed with the internals of this motor,internals in the zz502`s used to be a lot tougher with JE pistons, good rod bolts etc etc. This particular engine has budget basic rod bolts, KB pistons, Stock oil pump to name a few that I noticed. Going to see if the supplier will help with a rotating mass of my choice(probably a scat setup) and I will build the engine properly with good quality gear. Even if I get another one a new POS is still a POS.I would not enjoy the car I rekon waiting for one of the inferior parts to let go. So when I am finished it probably will be in the vicinity in dollars to the cheaper Shafiroff:( (Now there`s a lesson for you kiddies:D )
This does not sound like a factory ZZ502. Did you buy from the Authorized agent Eagle ??
chevguy
23-05-2010, 12:33 PM
This does not sound like a factory ZZ502. Did you buy from the Authorized agent Eagle ??
No I didn`t, there are some thoughts crossing my mind about this motor but I`ll keep them to myself as I can`t prove it.Just hoping atm that this guy does the right thing, will let you guys know hopefully this week on the outcome.
69coupe
23-05-2010, 12:47 PM
Best of luck
ElectricOrange69
23-05-2010, 12:50 PM
Did they sell it as a genuine zz502 ?
Regardless - fingers crossed they cover the cost of a new rotating assembly - $2K-$2.5K or so ?
This is the 3rd 502 in the past few months i have heard of problems to the internals.Sorry to hear that mate.Hopefully this bloke will sort it and look after you.
blackoutsteve
23-05-2010, 02:08 PM
Q.. Bought from Albury?
ElectricOrange69
23-05-2010, 02:19 PM
it is earlier in this thread...
Geezers garage in the gold coast, got it for 11700 I think it was.Can`t complain on the price.
blackoutsteve
23-05-2010, 02:21 PM
Oh.. Thanks! :p :D
chevguy
23-05-2010, 03:57 PM
Did they sell it as a genuine zz502 ?
Regardless - fingers crossed they cover the cost of a new rotating assembly - $2K-$2.5K or so ?
3.1k for a 572 scat combo.
ElectricOrange69
23-05-2010, 04:21 PM
3.1k for a 572 scat combo.
Can you run a 572 in a 9.8" deck ?
blackoutsteve
23-05-2010, 04:42 PM
Yeah, you can but you'd need to raise the pin in the piston by 0.400" which is a lot, use a 0.400" shorter connecting rod or do a bit of both.
I'd raise the pin only if it is doable.
chevguy
23-05-2010, 05:48 PM
Yeah, you can but you'd need to raise the pin in the piston by 0.400" which is a lot, use a 0.400" shorter connecting rod or do a bit of both.
I'd raise the pin only if it is doable.
Yeah can`t profess to be an expert on the rotating combos, this thing has decent rods in it (rod lengths are 6.135`s I think, don`t quote me:p)so may work out a combo where i might just need a 30 thou bore, crank and pistons, whatever the combo works out at that`s fine, my peni is not THAT small that I need to stretch the cubes and reliability to the limit:D ahhh who am I kidding it is that small but I`m still not doing it lol.
ElectricOrange69
23-05-2010, 06:26 PM
Yeah can`t profess to be an expert on the rotating combos, this thing has decent rods in it (rod lengths are 6.135`s I think, don`t quote me:p)so may work out a combo where i might just need a 30 thou bore, crank and pistons, whatever the combo works out at that`s fine, my peni is not THAT small that I need to stretch the cubes and reliability to the limit:D ahhh who am I kidding it is that small but I`m still not doing it lol.
A 540 is easy - the 4.25" stroke Scat 4340 Forged cranks to suit are about a grand and Probe SRS Forged pistons with the right pin height are around $750 (Rocket has them as does VPW I think). If you do need new rods the Scat 4340 I Beams with ARP bolts are about $400, I only know all this as I have just gone through the process for mine.
chevguy
24-05-2010, 07:22 AM
A 540 is easy - the 4.25" stroke Scat 4340 Forged cranks to suit are about a grand and Probe SRS Forged pistons with the right pin height are around $750 (Rocket has them as does VPW I think). If you do need new rods the Scat 4340 I Beams with ARP bolts are about $400, I only know all this as I have just gone through the process for mine.
Sweet thanks for that, will look at going this way if they don`t supply me with the gear. Still amazes me on the prices as when I built a tough rb30 for my last car pistons, oil pumps etc were all dearer than the 8cyl chev stuff
camaro_1967rs
01-06-2010, 09:14 PM
I feel for you
I know the drop in the stomache feeling
I know the pain of the possiblity of deception
I know the time to rebuild
There are now to many stories of poor 502 crate motors on the market. It gave me the opportunity to rebuild properly, mainly stock but finishing everything off. Toughening up the rocker assembly, fixed all the casting and oiling issues, I also got advice on the stock oil pump; it was good enough for a lot of hp. after balancing and blueprinting the whole motor it puts out over 500 hp, on 8:1 comp.
Just blown up my TH400 due to amount of torque from motor, so replaced wtih a Diesal TH400.
My 502 is not zz502 its the one under it, with the large rectangle port steel heads, and smaller cam. It idles quietly. This is a better combo for the blower.
ALIEN PARTS INSIDE:
sbc valves mixed with bbc
a handfull of sbc pushrods
damaged piston
lots of buring in the motor around bearings
chevguy
02-06-2010, 08:27 AM
I feel for you
I know the drop in the stomache feeling
I know the pain of the possiblity of deception
I know the time to rebuild
There are now to many stories of poor 502 crate motors on the market. It gave me the opportunity to rebuild properly, mainly stock but finishing everything off. Toughening up the rocker assembly, fixed all the casting and oiling issues, I also got advice on the stock oil pump; it was good enough for a lot of hp. after balancing and blueprinting the whole motor it puts out over 500 hp, on 8:1 comp.
Just blown up my TH400 due to amount of torque from motor, so replaced wtih a Diesal TH400.
My 502 is not zz502 its the one under it, with the large rectangle port steel heads, and smaller cam. It idles quietly. This is a better combo for the blower.
ALIEN PARTS INSIDE:
sbc valves mixed with bbc
a handfull of sbc pushrods
damaged piston
lots of buring in the motor around bearings
Thanks bud, damn yours sounds worse than what mine was. Got the probe pistons,stroker crank,new cam &lifters, magnum pro rockers,air gap manifold and a few other bits and pieces on there way now. Going to run 10.6:1 comp in the new motor and getting custom 2.25 primary extractors built so I am aiming for around 500rwhp now which should be pretty attainable.Trying my hardest to get most of it ready for assy before I head to the U.S(3 weeks). Like you said, the only way I stay positive is to think at least I will know the quality of the engine now and the extra horses helps.
ElectricOrange69
02-06-2010, 10:45 AM
Thanks bud, damn yours sounds worse than what mine was. Got the probe pistons,stroker crank,new cam &lifters, magnum pro rockers,air gap manifold and a few other bits and pieces on there way now. Going to run 10.6:1 comp in the new motor and getting custom 2.25 primary extractors built so I am aiming for around 500rwhp now which should be pretty attainable.Trying my hardest to get most of it ready for assy before I head to the U.S(3 weeks). Like you said, the only way I stay positive is to think at least I will know the quality of the engine now and the extra horses helps.
So have you gone for a 540 ? I am running the same pistons, manifold, same comp etc - will be interesting to compare dyno sheets :)
chevguy
02-06-2010, 11:12 AM
So have you gone for a 540 ? I am running the same pistons, manifold, same comp etc - will be interesting to compare dyno sheets :)
Yeah bud, took your advice and looks like I am building the same motor. What hp did you end up with? I am going to start with the 870 street avenger that came with the motor but may be a bit undercarbed, will soon see. I am running the edelbrock performer heads with a bit of porting so they should be adequate for now. I ordered a comp cams grind from the states that should work nicely. It will be good to see the comparison and if you beat me I`m going to nitrous it:Dj/k
ElectricOrange69
02-06-2010, 12:34 PM
Yeah bud, took your advice and looks like I am building the same motor. What hp did you end up with? I am going to start with the 870 street avenger that came with the motor but may be a bit undercarbed, will soon see. I am running the edelbrock performer heads with a bit of porting so they should be adequate for now. I ordered a comp cams grind from the states that should work nicely. It will be good to see the comparison and if you beat me I`m going to nitrous it:Dj/k
Block is being prep'd at the moment - grinding off casting flash, chamfering bottom of bores etc and then off for true decking and balancing. I reckon it is about 4 weeks away from the dyno - hoping for 600hp/600ft lb but we will see.
FYI - I found this article an interesting read in terms of what HP differences various parts make on a 540 - http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0805_540_big_block_chevy_engine/index.html
chevguy
03-08-2010, 06:13 PM
Motor is sitting in now,going to get the headers done tomorrow and hopefully have the car back by the weekend to fit up the alternator etc.Hoping to fire it by next weekend but deadlines aren`t my friend.Running a proform 1050 carb now and thank god the drop down cleaner covers up the ugly purple monster :)
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/IMG_0057.jpg
The new sump which clears a fair bit but only holds 6 quarts which will equate to around 7 litres with filling the filter etc.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/IMG_0053.jpg
ElectricOrange69
03-08-2010, 07:40 PM
Looks good - has it been dynoed ?
chevguy
04-08-2010, 10:33 AM
Nah not dynoed as we built the motor ourselves this time. My old man is a retired engine builder who has built a lot of speedway and drag engines so I know it'll be fine
chevguy
19-08-2010, 06:55 AM
Started the new engine up yesterday, sounds awesome and rocks the car when idling:D Fingers crossed I get more then 80 odd k`s out of this one.
tonner
19-08-2010, 08:12 AM
Well done, enjoy.
Greg
Great news, I'm sure it will last longer than 80kms ;) - Enjoy
Nev68
19-08-2010, 03:39 PM
Started the new engine up yesterday, sounds awesome and rocks the car when idling:D Fingers crossed I get more then 80 odd k`s out of this one.
Good to hear you've bounced back from the first trauma.
Hope all goes well with the new donk.
chevguy
20-08-2010, 07:16 AM
Thanks guys, I feel like a dolt, took the car for a drive yesterday and went to a mates to show him,pulled air cleaner off to show the carb and when I went to leave the car was running really badly. Pulled the carb apart expecting to see a bit of crap but nothing.Put the carb back together and started and run beautifully..ahhh I thought must have been crap in there,put the air cleaner back on and had trouble starting it,drove 100 metres up the road and it died, Had me stuffed until we found out the new carbs breather tubes(dunno the correct name for them) were actually an inch higher than the holleys so when i put the air cleaner on the lid sealed them perfectly causing fuel to just pour in.
Still have the weird heating problem of it warming up only when I am moving but I now suspect it`s thaty custom grille I built, I think the mesh is too fine and blocking the air when moving. These are all just teething problems that I never had a chance to work out the 1st time around. Here is a pic of the engine brackets I made up.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/1a86c242.jpg
chevguy
23-08-2010, 10:52 AM
Took the car out and cruised a bit on the weekend. With the new grille runs at about 10 deg cooler than before and didn`t miss a beat all weekend..even give it a little stab in second gear, white knuckle time,goes like a freekn train.
:D:D:D
ElectricOrange69
23-08-2010, 12:12 PM
What cam specs/type did you end up running in the 540 ?
chevguy
23-08-2010, 01:16 PM
What cam specs/type did you end up running in the 540 ?
Not a monster at any stretch but has a real nice lope anyway.
Comp Cams 01-424-8
Cam Style Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,800-6,100
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 242
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 248
Duration at 050 inch Lift 242 int./248 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 294
Advertised Exhaust Duration 300
Advertised Duration 294 int./300 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.540 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.560 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.540 int./0.560 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
Computer-Controlled Compatible No
Grind Number G6 XR294HR-10
ElectricOrange69
23-08-2010, 01:35 PM
Thanks Ken - looks very similar to mine (highlighted below)
6237
I know it is only a fresh engine but was curious how you found it power band wise and compared to the 502 ?
chevguy
23-08-2010, 05:40 PM
Thanks Ken - looks very similar to mine (highlighted below)
6237
I know it is only a fresh engine but was curious how you found it power band wise and compared to the 502 ?
More than I can tell you atm bud as I really haven't given it much, but I can tell you that so far the you can't compare the lowdown power of the 502 with this one, I am running around 11.2 cr now though so the thing is so crisp it's not funny. Might take it for a run in full street trim in about 3 weeks if all goes well and if I can get it to hook up at all I would expect 11's out of it.
ElectricOrange69
23-08-2010, 06:30 PM
I can tell from your post you must be feeling like a kid on Xmas day. It is great that it has all come together so well in the end. Great stuff....
69coupe
24-08-2010, 07:53 AM
By the way,did the original supplier of the engine do the right thing by you ??
chevguy
24-08-2010, 08:08 AM
By the way,did the original supplier of the engine do the right thing by you ??
Not really, $2000 back after weeks and weeks of pushing. I won`t be dealing with them again obviously. I actually have spoken to 2 guys in town who have bought cars off this company and both are bogged up and rusty so I am not the only one. The car world is relatively small so word will get out.
Only $2k? Good to know they don't stand by the products they sell.
Didn't someone on this forum recently buy a Silver '70 Chevelle from them? Hope they had better luck!
TUFF68
25-08-2010, 11:09 AM
Might take it for a run in full street trim in about 3 weeks if all goes well and if I can get it to hook up at all I would expect 11's out of it.
Will do that easy without hooking up Ken, which it won't with street tyres. Will hook up with a set of Slicks and you will need a roll cage ;)
chevguy
25-08-2010, 04:27 PM
Will do that easy without hooking up Ken, which it won't with street tyres. Will hook up with a set of Slicks and you will need a roll cage ;)
lol yeah the smartest thing I have done in building this car was not to cage it. If I did I know only too well just dipping into the 10`s turns into 9`s, then if I just put a 300 shot on it........:D
chevguy
05-09-2010, 06:44 PM
Actually took the car on it`s 1st real trip (110km round trip anyway) to the shannons car show up here. Going to build a new shroud with a bit of depth as car still overheats when sitting on 100. I don`t really believe the temp gauge because it was showing 220deg F but no water pushed out and the engine didn`t even smell hot. Bright side is out of 140 entrants the beast placed in the top 10, they don`t give you where you placed in particular in that 10 but I`ll take it:D
chevguy
10-09-2010, 05:31 PM
Tinkering around now with a few things I think will help performance. fitted a 1" spacer under the carb and one of those extreme k&n filters. The top of the filter now sits 1/2 way between the bonnet and scoop so trying to get some fresh cold air straight into the carb. Made a air cleaner shield out of a $12 bunnings flexible bunning carry bin :),may not look a million dollars but I don`t mind it and it cost $15 with the countersunk bolts. It seals against the bonnet. I know you can get a standard setup to do roughly the same but betting it wouldn`t fit with all my mods anyway.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1286.jpg
The new shroud which I am yet to test.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/101_1287.jpg
Found what was hitting in the rear end as well,the dse tubs have a little step down in front of the wheels and when the car is loaded and travelling the springs were making intermittent contact with that step:rolleyes: small problem to fix but a right royal prick to find.
Fitted new plugs as the thing is running like a wobbly goat and found out why the were playing up so soon, I was running a stage colder than standard as I always have used with my blown/turbo toys but with these aspirated motors(and it`s running a bit rich) standards are a lot more friendly with the 98 octane.
blackoutsteve
10-09-2010, 05:38 PM
Believe it of not, a while ago HotRod Magazine did a test on those K&N X-Stream lids with a few basic carb/manifold combinations, and in some cases it actually cost horsepower. In others, it was no advantage. :eek:
chevguy
10-09-2010, 05:45 PM
Believe it of not, a while ago HotRod Magazine did a test on those K&N X-Stream lids with a few basic carb/manifold combinations, and in some cases it actually cost horsepower. In others, it was no advantage. :eek:
Yup I know about that article but there are variables between the standard installation and the purpose/design I am using this one for, I can`t see how pulling in cold air from the top can be bad.
USA-69Z
10-09-2010, 06:39 PM
Ken , if im not mistaken we havnt seen any real good pics of ya car yet??? only these smallish build pics.. i want to see it in the sun !
Gav:)
TUFF68
10-09-2010, 07:40 PM
Believe it of not, a while ago HotRod Magazine did a test on those K&N X-Stream lids with a few basic carb/manifold combinations, and in some cases it actually cost horsepower. In others, it was no advantage. :eek:
The latest editon (Oct) of Super Chevy magazine has dyno figures on a 383ci SB test that says otherwise Steve. With the only changes to the engine being the air cleaner, the Xtreme lid made more hp than a standard lid and slightly more than no air cleaner at all.
blackoutsteve
10-09-2010, 08:17 PM
..I can`t see how pulling in cold air from the top can be bad.
Nothing at all wrong with cold air.. I'm pretty sure with the HRM test, the issue was turbulence.
I wonder what the Super Chev combo is compared to the HotRod combo..
I'll have to look it up.
chevguy
10-09-2010, 10:39 PM
Ken , if im not mistaken we havnt seen any real good pics of ya car yet??? only these smallish build pics.. i want to see it in the sun !
Gav:)
It's a bit of a prick of a colour to get a photo that gets the effect of the zirillic pearl properly but I will endeavor to take some shortly, entered for a drag meet next weekend if the car behaves so might try to get some more out there.
cluxford
11-09-2010, 07:04 AM
It's a bit of a prick of a colour to get a photo that gets the effect of the zirillic pearl properly but I will endeavor to take some shortly, entered for a drag meet next weekend if the car behaves so might try to get some more out there.
Video....mine is pearl also and photos suck to get the pearl showing...video however rocks....love to see a video of it Ken, up close and personal
chevguy
11-09-2010, 08:16 AM
Video....mine is pearl also and photos suck to get the pearl showing...video however rocks....love to see a video of it Ken, up close and personal
Good call Chris I might try with the video camera
69coupe
11-09-2010, 08:32 AM
Made a air cleaner shield out of a $12 bunnings flexible bunning carry bin :),may not look a million dollars but I don`t mind it and it cost $15 with the countersunk bolts. It seals against the bonnet. I know you can get a standard setup to do roughly the same but betting it wouldn`t fit with all my mods anyway.
Got a photo of this :)
chevguy
11-09-2010, 09:37 PM
Made a air cleaner shield out of a $12 bunnings flexible bunning carry bin :),may not look a million dollars but I don`t mind it and it cost $15 with the countersunk bolts. It seals against the bonnet. I know you can get a standard setup to do roughly the same but betting it wouldn`t fit with all my mods anyway.
Got a photo of this :)
You can see it in the photo above.
Took the car for a drive with the mods, damn thing heats up even quicker now, thought I could remove the front thermo since the shroud is better designed and sealed properly but apparently not. Thinking seriously tomorrow of going to a Mechanical fan as they pull a heap more than any thermo, but will leave the front one on to help air flow at idle. Man this should be easier
blackoutsteve
12-09-2010, 12:36 AM
Thinking seriously tomorrow of going to a Mechanical fan as they pull a heap more than any thermo..
Now you're talkin'.. ;)
chevguy
12-09-2010, 02:49 PM
Now you're talkin'.. ;)
I take it your using the stock 7 blade 18" fan Steve? Done a quick bit of research and seems they work better than most aftermarket, did you run a clutch or direct?
blackoutsteve
12-09-2010, 05:12 PM
Yep. Stock shroud, 7 blade and clutch hub. ;)
The stock blade is actually a 17" diameter, but I think some Fords or other large cars were up to 19". I bought on of a Lincoln I think and trimmed it down for a close fit within the shroud.
Don't buy a "flex" type fan to fit the clutch hub.
I could never understand the idea behind flex fans. Just when you need to move some air, the blades give up and bend instead. :rolleyes:
The clutch hub takes care of whether you need to move air or not.
You should find that a Holden clutch hub is the correct length as the hubs do vary in axle heights depending on application.
chevguy
12-09-2010, 09:17 PM
Yep. Stock shroud, 7 blade and clutch hub. ;)
The stock blade is actually a 17" diameter, but I think some Fords or other large cars were up to 19". I bought on of a Lincoln I think and trimmed it down for a close fit within the shroud.
Don't buy a "flex" type fan to fit the clutch hub.
I could never understand the idea behind flex fans. Just when you need to move some air, the blades give up and bend instead. :rolleyes:
The clutch hub takes care of whether you need to move air or not.
You should find that a Holden clutch hub is the correct length as the hubs do vary in axle heights depending on application.
Sweet thanks steve will see what I can find this week, just looked at pontiworld, the stock fan blades certainly aren`t cheap but if it fixes it, it will be worth the money.
chevguy
28-09-2010, 03:16 PM
Installed the caltracs and as requested some photo`s, bit crappy sorry but only had the iphone handy, you can see the height clearance at the back from the other rim in the pic.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/IMG_0074.jpg
Photo of my modified front spoiler as it is now a fresh air intake as well, not everyones cuppa I`m sure but it works.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/IMG_0077.jpg
Ran the car on the dyno, 450rwhp and 650 ft/lb. Not overly impressive but I blame the small port heads and the air gap manifold. You could see on the dyno it was a really sharp power curve but flattens of quickly at around 5500rpm. With these stats I should run somewhere in the 11`s anyway and as I can`t run 10`s without a cage, the $5000 odd dollars to upgrade the heads/manifold/cam to produce big horsepower with this tough bottom end doesn`t seem worth it for 1/2 sec odd in ET.....Saying that I am 100% going to SEMA next year so who knows :)
ElectricOrange69
28-09-2010, 03:46 PM
That is not bad Ken - at a guess somewhere around 550 at the flywheel. I have the same limitation cam/head wise.
Btw - what brand of driving lights are they in the front panel ?
L88racer
28-09-2010, 04:15 PM
650 ft/lb is very good and all the power is very usable without having to wring its neck!
chevguy
28-09-2010, 09:11 PM
That is not bad Ken - at a guess somewhere around 550 at the flywheel. I have the same limitation cam/head wise.
Btw - what brand of driving lights are they in the front panel ?
Marquez billet with amber LED's, I think I got them from DSE but it was awhile ago so I don't remember the price
650 ft/lb is very good and all the power is very usable without having to wring its neck!
Yeah your right about that it makes a heap of power of the mark and is pretty street friendly, expected a little more though
Went to dummy fit the new wheels and slicks to find my wheel studs aren't long enough so the axles are now back out,Yay for drama.
blackoutsteve
28-09-2010, 09:33 PM
Ran the car on the dyno, 450rwhp and 650 ft/lb. Not overly impressive but I blame the small port heads and the air gap manifold. You could see on the dyno it was a really sharp power curve but flattens of quickly at around 5500rpm.
It that's a stock ZZ502 with just an AirGap, they're pretty good numbers.
As Warren says, that's ~550 at the crank.
I have the same heads and they can make peak power in the mid 6s.. Mine peaks at around 6500 with ~0.260° duration @ 0.050". That's about 35° more duration than the stock ZZ502 cam.
I think that the cam and perhaps the intake are limiting your rpm much more, but that's perfect for the stock low comp ratio that you have anyway.
You're doing much better than you think, I think! :p ;)
chevguy
28-09-2010, 09:44 PM
It that's a stock ZZ502 with just an AirGap, they're pretty good numbers.
As Warren says, that's ~550 at the crank.
I have the same heads and they can make peak power in the mid 6s.. Mine peaks at around 6500 with ~0.260° duration @ 0.050". That's about 35° more duration than the stock ZZ502 cam.
I think that the cam and perhaps the intake are limiting your rpm much more, but that's perfect for the stock low comp ratio that you have anyway.
You're doing much better than you think, I think! :p ;)
Your probably forgetting my new motor:o540 cube 11.4 cr, so far from a zz502
blackoutsteve
28-09-2010, 10:39 PM
Your probably forgetting my new motor:o540 cube 11.4 cr, so far from a zz502
What cam and what heads have you got?
Sorry, I did forget. :o
---------- Post added at 09:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ----------
Not a monster at any stretch but has a real nice lope anyway.
Comp Cams 01-424-8
Cam Style Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 2,800-6,100
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 242
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 248
Duration at 050 inch Lift 242 int./248 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 294
Advertised Exhaust Duration 300
Advertised Duration 294 int./300 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.540 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.560 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.540 int./0.560 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
Computer-Controlled Compatible No
Grind Number G6 XR294HR-10
..and the same ZZ502 "rectoval" heads?
chevguy
29-09-2010, 06:54 AM
What cam and what heads have you got?
Sorry, I did forget. :o
---------- Post added at 09:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ----------
..and the same ZZ502 "rectoval" heads?
yup, just ported them and cleaned them up a bit, still a long way from great.
blackoutsteve
29-09-2010, 06:14 PM
Yes, these heads are too small for anything more than about 5500 on a 540.
If my 454 (also limited by these heads) is peaking power at 6500, then the same amount of airflow into a 540 with be at ~5500.
Your power is still good, but it's really the limit of these heads, their max rpm on your engine, and not at all the potential of the cubes you have.
I'm thinking about larger heads too. Not now, but later when I've done all I can with them.
I think the ZZ572 heads would be a better choice for you, or something with about a 340cc intake. What we both have is only a 290cc, which by the way, they flow quite good for what they are. Mine have never been ported and I made 570-580 flywheel..
chevguy
29-09-2010, 07:29 PM
Yes, these heads are too small for anything more than about 5500 on a 540.
If my 454 (also limited by these heads) is peaking power at 6500, then the same amount of airflow into a 540 with be at ~5500.
Your power is still good, but it's really the limit of these heads, their max rpm on your engine, and not at all the potential of the cubes you have.
I'm thinking about larger heads too. Not now, but later when I've done all I can with them.
I think the ZZ572 heads would be a better choice for you, or something with about a 340cc intake. What we both have is only a 290cc, which by the way, they flow quite good for what they are. Mine have never been ported and I made 570-580 flywheel..
Already looking at the AFR magnum 335`s, victor junior manifold and a fair bit bigger cam, just looking mind you:D After a bit of research I found that the cam is a fair bit too small for this many cubes, would`ve been great in a 454 but loses too much for my use.Will be running the car in a couple of weeks at a nostalgia meet and if it hooks up but doesn`t run a 11.6ish or better, looking will turn into a spousal argument:D
blackoutsteve
30-09-2010, 12:06 AM
My last solid flat tappet was pretty much identical to the roller you have now. (Crane 134781). Great cam, but 454. You'd probably want something 270° @ 0.050" with those cubes and comp.
*rayman*
30-09-2010, 09:16 AM
Already looking at the AFR magnum 335`s, victor junior manifold and a fair bit bigger cam, just looking mind you
If you want to sell your current heads, we might be able to come to some sort of deal on them. You can buy new AFRs while the dollar is good. PM if you're interested.
chevguy
30-09-2010, 10:30 AM
If you want to sell your current heads, we might be able to come to some sort of deal on them. You can buy new AFRs while the dollar is good. PM if you're interested.
No worries bud but someone else already pm'd me for the top end
chevguy
09-11-2010, 12:59 PM
Already looking at the AFR magnum 335`s, victor junior manifold and a fair bit bigger cam, just looking mind you:D After a bit of research I found that the cam is a fair bit too small for this many cubes, would`ve been great in a 454 but loses too much for my use.Will be running the car in a couple of weeks at a nostalgia meet and if it hooks up but doesn`t run a 11.6ish or better, looking will turn into a spousal argument:D
Looking at this combo turned into buying, bought the afr 335 cnc'd and milled heads,new msd 6al2 ignition with all the fruit, big ass cam(solid) and lifters, the guy at afr asked me would the 750 odd hp be enough to get me where I want to be I answered: ummm yeah that should be just enough. Giddyup I say
blackoutsteve
09-11-2010, 03:04 PM
Rock 'n' Roll brother.. :D
Solid is a roller or flat tappet?
Any gory details? ;):D
TUFF68
09-11-2010, 04:00 PM
the guy at afr asked me would the 750 odd hp be enough to get me where I want to be I answered:
750hp will get you where you want to be pretty bloody quick as well :)
chevguy
10-11-2010, 12:45 AM
Rock 'n' Roll brother.. :D
Solid is a roller or flat tappet?
Any gory details? ;):D
Roller but don't have the specs on me,will post them when the cam arrives soon.
Nev68
10-11-2010, 12:01 PM
Installed the caltracs and as requested some photo`s, bit crappy sorry but only had the iphone handy, you can see the height clearance at the back from the other rim in the pic.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/IMG_0074.jpg
Have you noticed better traction with the Caltracs?
chevguy
10-11-2010, 11:16 PM
Have you noticed better traction with the Caltracs?
Only run it the once nev and to be honest didn't heat the slicks up properly so I can't be sure if they worked or not. Once I put the new combo together they'll get tested good and proper though.
Nev68
11-11-2010, 12:08 PM
Only run it the once nev and to be honest didn't heat the slicks up properly so I can't be sure if they worked or not. Once I put the new combo together they'll get tested good and proper though.
OK, look forward to seeing what you can get out of the new set up.
chevguy
11-12-2010, 08:04 AM
Bit of an update, ran the car on the dyno Friday and getting a weird tiny surge all the way through the rev range until it hits about 5k. Fuel air mix still looking rich all the way through and maintains good fuel pressure so getting the msd checked out Monday. Still with these problems and only 27 deg timing ran 380 rwkw and 11400 newtons of torque(which according to my iPhone conversion is 840 ft/lb) so hopefully will see another 100 kw when we get it sorted.
blackoutsteve
11-12-2010, 08:32 AM
Sounds good.. A huge improvment over the previous combination.;)
tonner
11-12-2010, 04:56 PM
Glad to hear it's together Ken, looking forward to the final numbers.
Greg
Nice work Ken, thats some serious torque you pulling there mate!
chevguy
11-12-2010, 06:02 PM
Rock 'n' Roll brother.. :D
Solid is a roller or flat tappet?
Any gory details? ;):D
Sorry steve forgot to post the details you wanted they are :
Gross lift :715. 715
Duration @50: 256. 260
Lobe separation : 112 deg
Torque is good so I have hope to get around the 420rwkw or better when sorted. I was only running the v power stuff as well so was a bit of a girl with timing.
blackoutsteve
11-12-2010, 07:46 PM
Almost identical to the roller in my 454. ;)
Crane 138101 (http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=24611) Sweet noise! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wj4kFYCC-5A)
chevguy
20-01-2011, 09:54 PM
As the rain has stopped for a few hours and the suns out I actually took some photos. Sick of waiting for the perfect weather and getting to a good location so this is as good as it gets for now:D
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01342.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01336.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01314.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01310.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01308.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01306.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01296.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01293.jpg
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01291.jpg
Short video of it running taken with the wifes camera. Proper high Def action movie will be coming soon as I can get on a strip.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/th_MOV01312.jpg (http://s652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/?action=view¤t=MOV01312.mp4)
Twisted67
20-01-2011, 10:39 PM
Well done Ken,the car looks awesome.Congrats and now drive the hell out of it!!:D:D:D
Paul
Wow, looks awesome mate, well done and congrats!
ElectricOrange69
21-01-2011, 11:52 AM
Looking great :)
What size rear rims and tyres are those ?
chevguy
21-01-2011, 12:05 PM
Looking great :)
What size rear rims and tyres are those ?
18x10`s and 295/50/18
tezza101
21-01-2011, 04:26 PM
that is SWEET! :D
chevguy
23-01-2011, 10:52 AM
wow didn`t know photobucket has so many tools, you all probably did but as usual I`m behind the 8 ball:D. took me 5 mins of screwing around to do this, pretty cool program.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/DSC01308-1.jpg
blackoutsteve
23-01-2011, 12:11 PM
That's a really good effect. :) I wonder if ImageShack has that..
Hey Ken, why is your front spoiler chopped?
chevguy
23-01-2011, 12:33 PM
That's a really good effect. :) I wonder if ImageShack has that..
Hey Ken, why is your front spoiler chopped?
It incorporates an air dam in the middle section steve. It feeds cold air directly into the radiator and bypasses the a/c condenser and trans cooler. Found it helps a heap on the highway. The a/c condenser actually covers the whole radiator but sits in front by around 40mm. The air dam feeds directly into this space.
blackoutsteve
23-01-2011, 12:53 PM
I found a full spoiler helps create a low pressure area behind the radiator which helps more air move through it.
If you feed high pressure air in behind the trans cooler & condensor, will enough in-coming air pass through them?
Do you have the baffles at each end of the radiator support? All A/C cars had them to prevent air moving around it.
(RPO C60-B3)
chevguy
23-01-2011, 01:56 PM
I found a full spoiler helps create a low pressure area behind the radiator which helps more air move through it.
If you feed high pressure air in behind the trans cooler & condensor, will enough in-coming air pass through them?
Do you have the baffles at each end of the radiator support? All A/C cars had them to prevent air moving around it.
(RPO C60-B3)
To be honest I'm not sure what the baffles look like but I did fab up a custom shroud and that pwr radiator which I have both sealed against the radiator panel.
I tried the full spoiler initially as I knew about the theory of it creating a low pressure area under the car, correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that was to help suck the air down from the engine bay and expel it under the car. My car however doesn't seem to like theory and the front spoiler made no difference at all initially. I am running that 19" blade which I have no doubt there won't be any positive displacement of airfrom the dam/through the grille. This setup I have now works amazingly well as I can run on the highway now and watch the temp drop from 200 odd to 170 in the matter of minutes. The whole problem is that giant condenser though. If I installed a smaller one i probably didn't need the lengths I have gone to.
blackoutsteve
23-01-2011, 02:18 PM
These are my restored baffles. :)
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/2474/engineblackout203.th.jpg (http://img40.imageshack.us/i/engineblackout203.jpg/) http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/8553/airconditioning002.th.jpg (http://img507.imageshack.us/i/airconditioning002.jpg/)
chevguy
31-03-2011, 06:44 PM
Finally my mechanical gauges arrived today after being on b/o for 3 months. Changed the oil pressure and water temp as I don't trust the electrical ones. Bugger me I was right so far, oil pressure now idles at 60psi and rises to 80 when revved. The old gauge idled at 80 and went higher when revved. I had the car idling in the shed(friggn rain is getting beyond a joke) for 15 mins odd and it wouldn't go past 170f. Looking forward to going on a run now to see if the temp is out 15 deg as I suspect. Good lesson though, Stewart Warner gear so not el cheapo but still bit me in the ass. I reckon I could build nearly another camaro with faulty parts:D
Not 028
31-03-2011, 06:54 PM
Ken,
Are you sure that you have 60psi at idle? Where are you taking the reading from?
Sheridan.
chevguy
31-03-2011, 07:41 PM
Ken,
Are you sure that you have 60psi at idle? Where are you taking the reading from?
Sheridan.
At the outlet next to the filter on the gen6 block. They are different oil galleries to the gen4.Also running the high volume pump so 60psi is what I would expect, 80 had me concerned.
Not 028
31-03-2011, 08:18 PM
Ken,
I run a Gen 5 with a high volume pump and take my reading from the top at the rear (near the Dissy). The pressure sits on about 20psi at idle after she warms up. Most literature suggests you want around 15psi at idle and then increases of around 10psi per 1000rpm.
But I guess if it hasn't given you any dramas yet, not worth worrying about now.
Sheridan.
blackoutsteve
31-03-2011, 08:42 PM
FWIW, the GM spec is 40psi @ 2K. :)
(Don't expect it to rise or fall linearly from there. ie: 80 @ 4K)
Not 028
31-03-2011, 08:52 PM
Steve,
Righto, good to know. Is that a hot or cold reading? Where do they take the reading from?
Sheridan.
blackoutsteve
31-03-2011, 09:11 PM
Hot and stock location/s.. ;)
69Superbad
05-04-2011, 03:45 PM
Mate, I know the position you're in. I've been deep in there with my car for many years when I first bought it.
Shane in Canberra has containers coming in and they get loaded near Rick's in Georgia I think..
Maybe give him a call..
Have his number?
Sorry to just jump in on this thread, though I can sympathise as I bought a similar POS sight unseen off Ebay, but who is this Shane in Canberra? Is he importing bits and pieces from the US to Canberra? He could come in real handy!:)
blackoutsteve
05-04-2011, 08:29 PM
Yes.. He's on here as "ChevMad"
0408396327.
RAW454
05-04-2011, 09:23 PM
Yes.. He's on here as "ChevMad"
0408396327.Spoke to him this morning & he's off to the States on the weekend for a month or so.. get in quick if need anything ;)
chevguy
10-04-2011, 03:18 PM
After the dodgy ass job the guy did up here on my head lining it was annoying the hell out of me so I got another young bloke up here to do it. Really nice job, got him to make it solid and raised as high as possible as my head hits where it was now. He made it out of 3mm foam stuff that is sandwiched between approx .4mm aluminium. The stuff is terrific, you can bend it to whatever you want and it holds shape but is as light as a feather. Sorry for the iphone picture.
http://i652.photobucket.com/albums/uu247/ekturbo1962/IMG_0111.jpg
Thought the car was missing a bit on a drive so after doing new plugs which didn`t fix it, started the car up at night in my shed to see any spark jump. sure enough in the darkness saw an illumination and a plug lead was shorting out(heat boots and piped wrapped :confused:) through the lot. Changed the plug lead to a different angle and the beast come alive again. Nice simple way fyi to check for shorting of a spark.:)
chevguy
04-11-2011, 11:58 AM
Sema can get expensive, bought a new tci th400 (my old box had a burnt 2nd gear clutch)I thought I may as well upgrade while I'm here, the c5 corvette twin piston 325mm disc brake upgrade, a hydraboost and a set of autometer American muscle gauges. I will post updates of the brakes/hydraboost and the difference it makes over my factory type setup when I get back to it.
Nev68
04-11-2011, 12:53 PM
Sema can get expensive, bought a new tci th400 (my old box had a burnt 2nd gear clutch)I thought I may as well upgrade while I'm here, the c5 corvette twin piston 325mm disc brake upgrade, a hydraboost and a set of autometer American muscle gauges. I will post updates of the brakes/hydraboost and the difference it makes over my factory type setup when I get back to it.
So can you actually buy / order products at the show?
chevguy
05-11-2011, 04:10 AM
Technically no, really yes. I only bought the 400 from the guy at tci at sema though, the rest was I just rang up. Tci bent over backwards to give me a good deal to get the sale so it's good to talk to people face to face.
Nev68
05-11-2011, 09:23 AM
Definitley better to actually be with the peron you are buying gear from.
As we all know it can go wrong occasionally when ordering parts from the other side of the world :)
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